Need help - proper paint removal

[1mean99grandam]

I have my Firebird posted over in the non-GA rides. I am currently trying to remove all the paint off the car. I grinded out all the surface rust, luckily no holes.

What is the proper way to do this? I want the whole car primered. I will be having it painted black. So should I use black primer? Seems to make since, but it could still be wrong.

So here's how I am doing it, correct me if I'm wrong.

Grind out the rust
Use sand paper to finish surface
Bondo any penetration in metal
Let bondo dry and sand down. (Reapply if needed.)
clean area (with what? i've been using a damp towel.)
Prime surface.
Sand primer with low grit paper and add second coat.

Does this sound right? Anything I need to do or that I am missing. Never done this before......

[Jordus]

i dont think the color of primer matters......as long as your paint has good pigment it will cover it up.

[JoeyK]

Primer color really doesn't matter if you're going black. if you were going, like white or any other lighter color I'd suggest gray. But like I said , really doesn't matter w/ black paint. You do know, however that black will magnify every body imperfection overlooked. Be very carefull to smoothe up any imperfections.
Once you've groung out all the rust bondo can be used to fill the pitting from the rust. Wash down w/ metal prep or isopropyl alchohol (Rubbing alchohol) & prime w/ a good primer surfacer. If you lay it on heavy enough (Implementing multiple coats) you can just sand it once. I usually 320 it, followed by 600 grit. After that you're ready for the painter! Of course, most good painters will nit pick you're work & fix imperfections so thier work looks good. Atleast I won't paint anything that will make me look bad w/out fixing it. (i.e. nicks, sandscratches, pinholes, etc.) Here's a helpfull old body material that is CHEAP... for pinholes & minor nicks, buy 3m's acryl-glaze. It's a tube of putty (green) * can be used to fill shallow nicks & pinholes in your bodywork or primer. But it must be put on OVER primer. So if you're primed & find some minor imperfections yet that you've missed this really comes in handy. It's been around for years but it's still so handy. It's something I make sure I keep in stock. & then again, after you've filled w/ acryl-glaze, let it dry & sand smoth. Then reprime over the area & sand the primer smooth just like you did w/ the rest of the car.
By the way, why are you removeing all the paint? There's nothing better for your new paint to adhere to than the factory paint. As long as it's not checked or split or built up too high from multiple paintjobs. There's rarely ever a need to strip & prime the entire car unless you've gotten too many layers of old paintjobs built up or bad factory paint etc.

[1mean99grandam]

OMG - thanks for all the great info! The car has the original paint job, so no multi paint jobs.

I went to the metal for the rust obviously, but I didn't think I had to remove ALL the paint. BUt should I atleast remove all the wax and clear coat and prime it? How should the rest of the preping of the car go - that didn't have rust?

Thanks again for all that info. I got it printed out and I'm gonna go over it again and go get that 3M stuff.

I expect a good professional painter to rip on my prep job. It's the first one I have ever done - and they sure have more experience than I do.

[VanishingImage]

I wouldn't use bondo to fill in anything cuz most people have said it will crack over time,most say to use metal and weld it in or over any holes then sand the weld beads down.My friend that just got his accord fully shaved used metal over each place(door handles,gas tank door,antenna,etc) and said the guy recomended it over bondo.

[JoeyK]

I don't think he said anything about holes. Anyone putting bondo over holes should refrain from working on thier car! lol There's absolutely nothing wrong w/ plastic filler if it's done right. You are correct on shaveing. The only real way to close the holes from shaveing is welding. If it weren't for plastic filler bodywork would triple in price, maybe more. Takes alot of time to work metal to the point of perfection, unless you use lead, in that case the leads outrageously expensive & hardly anyone knows how to do it anymore.

[VanishingImage]

i knew he didn't have any holes i was saying to maybe use metal to fill in any indentations,but never knew or heard about plastic filler and i'll take your word on it since your the body work guy;) :)

[1mean99grandam]

NO HOLES THANK YOU GOD! I got one dent in the passnger side rear quarter. I have to remove the bracket that holds the spare and the jack so I can work it out with a rubber mallet. Or I will have to pay for it to be pulled.
http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=124938
can you see it in the rear? and that front panel is original primer and paint, but the paint or the primer didn't take right.

[JoeyK]

Originally posted by VanishingImage
i knew he didn't have any holes i was saying to maybe use metal to fill in any indentations,but never knew or heard about plastic filler and i'll take your word on it since your the body work guy;) :)

Bondo is plastic filler. Everybody calls all plastic filler bondo for some reason. Guess it'ds because the Bondo brand is the origional plastic filler from the 50's.
Also, your suggestion about useing metal. The only prob. is is the heat generatedfrom building up weld to fill in indentations will also most likely warp most of todays lightweight body panels. The only good way to use metal is to use lead & I already commented on the cons of lead. Hope that helps, if you hear the word plastic filler again it's the same thin as Bondo ;)