View Full Version : breaking bolts loose
swordfencer
10-14-2003, 09:59 AM
In my ongoing adventure to change my brake pads, I ran into a problem with the rear calipers. The front calipers were easy to take off, but when I got to the rears, I ran into problems.
The rear caliper bolts are frozen solid. I tried using an air ratchet to break them loose, only I ended up almost breaking my wrist instead. I talked to my dad about it (he is an ex-hotrod guy) and he was saying that the bolts are covered with a threadlock compound, and that either I break them loose or I end up shearing the bolts off. He said he has a few tricks to break those bolts loose. As far as the threadlock compound, I did noticed some red stuff on the threads on the front caliper bolts.
Something that I do need to do is get new caliper bolts just in case I end up snapping them off. Of course if I do end up snapping them off, I might end up buying a whole new bracket and caliper assembly.
My question to you folks, has this situation ever happened to you folks? Did you guys end up buying whole new assemblies because the bolt broke off?
Just curious.
Thanks!
Solarboy
10-14-2003, 10:17 AM
As Clarence would say..."yah gotta gettem hot". If you are not putting heat on any part holding fluid, heat up the area around the bolt...expanding the part that is holding the threads, you know? A decent propane torch will do it. Then get to it quickly, or even while you are heating it. Some nuts, like leaf spring shackles, have to be red hot to break them loose with common hand tools. Tapping on it will help break it loose, too. Squirt it with liquid wrench or other thread penetrant, tap on it, leave overnight. Use a good 6 point socket if possible. A combination of these methods will loosen 99% of the stuck ones. If you break one off, then you get to experience the joy of what are called "easy outs". That procedure involves drilling a hole in the bolt, inserting the easy-out, then breaking the easy out off in the hole, and trying to drill an even smaller hole in that...
swordfencer
10-14-2003, 10:52 AM
Thanks for your help!
RXmar2
10-14-2003, 12:38 PM
Air ratchet isn't the best torque leverage.... I'd say if the torch doen't work for you -- use a ratchet and a helper bar -- one that you can put at the end of the ratchet to extend your leverage....
Is the bolt a hex socket or regular bolt????
If it is a reg bolt -- then use two wrenches -- one on the bolt and one on open end with the box end of the other looped inside the other wrench.
4kQuad
10-15-2003, 05:22 AM
Not Hard, but hitting it like a nail a few times may help brake the seal. Yes, if it's safe heat is the best bet. Brake fluid will catch fire, so be carefull.
Good Luck.
93GASE3300
10-15-2003, 09:55 PM
At my dealership we just use an impact gun and if that doesnt work we use a 1/2" breaker bar with a pipe extension for extra torque. I havent seen one of those bolts break yet there pretty tough however it isnt impossible for it to happen. Good luck!
mikem220153
10-17-2003, 04:58 PM
Wow, I don't think I have ever seen thread locking compound used on caliper bolts. Anyway, I would use heat as a last resort. I would try a 1/2inch breaker bar and pipe extension on the handle for extra leverage.
swordfencer
10-20-2003, 09:39 AM
Same here, I have never seen thread locker used on caliper bolts either. I am not surprised though. It took my dad and I almost 2 hours and 4 different vice-grips and channel locks to get a shock absorber off my old Cordoba. Some idiot put lock tight on nut at the the top, so when I tried to get it off, it broke the shaft so it twisted around. We almost cut the shock off, but a last try I broke it loose. The other 3 shocks only took 5 minutes to get them off. Go figure.
LargeFish
10-20-2003, 02:58 PM
I go the other route and put anti-seize on the caliper bolts...
tenspeed
11-08-2003, 10:12 PM
I found marine grade Never-Seize that lasts longer with the rain
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