Time for new stereo

[Chuckles1000]

ok my car got broken into and everything was taken so insurance has gave me $5,000 that was the value of my last stereo to replace with whatever stereo i want help me pick out something thats gonna kickass for 5,000 and under i need the following

Subwoofers
Head Unit
Amp for subs
Amp for front and rear speakers

i was lucky and they didnt get my Alpine Type R front and rears so i still have those

help me out im from canada and i had an all alpine system before
Thank You

[Vizzo]

For 5k you will have an insane system. I don't even know where to begin....:D

[Chuckles1000]

ok anyone else?

[birdhouse]

Go all top of the line Crossover... Their top of the line shit is so f*cking crazy...

That, or hit up some top of the line JL... No matter what you get, you can afford some mad kick ass shit...

[Pte Socks]

Ok, well since im from canada I can tell you some prices. First of all, id definatly get an alpine HU. Ill see if I can find of pic of it, but it has generally goes for around 350$ and is MP3 capable ( heres a couple of suggestions.. CDA-9807 and 9827). So thats that. Ok, to amp your speakers, again, alpine. Perhaps an MRV-F540, this should definatly be enough to power those alpine speakers. They are 100Wx4 at 2ohms when they are given 14.4V and will set you back about 1000$. So now you have about 2500$ left. Hehehe well for this id go JL. Id suggest two great sounding subs. Either get a single JL 12 or 13.5 W7 or... get two JL 10,12 or 15 W6v2's. Id recommend the 12's for the w6v2's, because they are similar to my subs and I know they are very poweful and nice and crisp. As for an amp. Well thats a tough decision. I know with alpine, all amps are 2 ohms stable. If you can wire up either one of those suggestions to 2 ohms, that would be great. I know for my w6's though, I was not able to wire them up to 2ohms and because of that, im losing power. For an amp to power the subs I can recommend 2. Either the MRM-M1000 or the JL 1000/1. Both are extremely excellent. I do know that you have more wiring options for the JL amp because its between 1.5 and 4 ohms stable. The alpine one will never ever overheat because of its more digital design, but I also know that the JL amp hardly ever overheats and supposidly a little more powerful than the alpine amp. As for them, both will provide all the power you need to run any of the sub setups. So once again, id suggest either the w6v2's or a single 13.5 W7 or even the 12W7. Best of luck man. I know for 5G,s that would be my ultimate system.

[anteck7]

spend a couple of bux on a good alarm.

[Pte Socks]

Uhh i think thats a given. Or at least I hope so, I dont really think he would not have an alarm.

[matts]

evidentally he didn't this time :P. my stuff's been jacked before. it SUCKS and i know where you're coming from. i'd buy the alarm first, and get mad stupid with it. i'd buy the best alarm i could find.....THEN start with the system. i'd go with alpine or kenwood excelon, i've owned both. right now i've got all kenwood excelon headunits, but there's NOTHING wrong with alpine. for an amp i'd get a nice 4 channel amp like neo-blue said. then for subs/amps is where we all start to differ.

for a sub i'd get a 15" L7 and a KX1200.1, they're last years model so you should be able to find one pretty cheap. and have the sub in a ported box. or get a crossfire 1000D, then wire the L7 down to 1 ohm. the crossfire will give it about 1200 watts for about $500-600. or even a bd1001. it'll give you about the same power for a little more cash.

[car audio dave]

its tough to say exactly what you could get considering im workin in US$. assuming that $5k in Canadian dollars is about $3500-4000 US$ id say get an alpine CDA-9833 ($450 US$)headunit, JL: 300/4 4-channel amp ($500 US$), JL 1000/1 monoblock ($1000 US$), a 13w6 ($650 US$) and have a custom install done. that shoudl leave some $ to get an alarm then.

[Chuckles1000]

ok well today i picked up my headunit no one mentioned this one but i got an
Alpine CDA-9815

also no one mentioned any alpine type r subs
how come are the JL Audio better?

also i did have an alarm but it didnt stop them

[Pte Socks]

ha! I knew it! hes a smart canadian! ha! booya. Well actually, alpine type R subs are very clean and nice, but IM still more of a fan of the more powerful JL's And BTW, dave is probably referring to a single 13W7! not W6, because first, they dont make the w6's anymore and second, they dont come in that size. FIrst, the prices differ on a lot of things. A JL 10001/ will cost you about 1400 retail, a 13W7 will cost 1200 retail, an mrd-m1000 will go for aout 1300 retail, a 12w6v2 will for for 7-800$ retail, a half decent alpine deck will go for 350+$ retail. Anywho, you got your deck, thats cool. As for an amp to drive the speakers, dave's idea isnt bad, but honestly, I think you can pump more through those speakers hence why I suggested the mrv-F540, as for subs, well dave and I are more JL fans while matts loves his L7's. While all those prices look steep, dont worry man, just go to like an A&B sound and start talking to the guy. Tell him outright your about to drop 4000$ in his store and tell him EXACTLY WHAT YOU WANT. Tell him you get him what you want for 4000$ and the deal is closed that day. Honestly, bargin with those guys, all they have to do is look at how much your going to spend and they are goign to drop the price to how you want it, if he doenst, walk away and go to a couple other stores and do the exact same thing, then bargin between the stores, before you know it, your 1000/1 or M1000 will be down to 1100$, yoru W6v2's down to 600$, your W7 down to 1000$, all kinds of stuff. Its what I did and I saved a ton of money off it.

[matts]

well if we wanna start getting in that price range i think we can step on up to the solo x 10s and 12s. same speaker as far as the coil goes, except the 12 plays a tad deeper than the 10. you can get one of those for about $700 and they'll take 2500 watts rms easily. i like JL and all, but i just think they're a tad overpriced.

[Chuckles1000]

can i ask why u like the jl amps more than then alpine

since i cant find and JL dealers in my area but i know 3 alpine dealers that have the MRD M1000 and the MRV-540 and MRV-340

[car audio dave]

first off, they do make a 13w6 and its not a 13w6v2 because there wasnt a 13" when they made the v1 versions, so therefore, its not the second version of the 13w6. i like it because it hits deep, but the w6 doesnt have the SPL structure that you find on the w7. it also requires less power, a 1000 watt amp will really rock it.

JL amps are more costly and more desireable because of the R.I.P.S. i forget what thats stands for, but what it means is, that you can go anywhere from 1.5 up to 4 ohm load and the power will not change. a 1000 watt amp will be exactly there for all of those impedences. that means that the distortion wont go up with a lower ohm rating. they also stay really cool, never any heat issues with JL slash series amps.

JL amps are also regulated. This is key with a sub amp. normally, when your subs hit, you notice that the lights dim. thats a result of the cars coltage dropping. when the voltage drops and your amp isnt regulated, then the amps power output drops too. this is why we need capacitors. a cap will help regulate the voltage. with a regulated amp, when the voltage drops, the power output doesnt, so a cap is no longer as necessary, but still is a good idea(amp likes it better with 14 volts rather than 12).

i hope all this helps.

[Pte Socks]

dont you have an A&B sound in ontario? i know they carry JL. I must apologize to dave though, I honestly have never heard of a 13W6 at all and thus thought he made a typo. Sorry man. Dave is right though with the RIPS, and unfrortunatly, i cant remember what it stands for either. As for being regulated, I know that alpine V12 amps ( the newer ones) are also regulated.

[Chuckles1000]

ok so if i can get an alpine MRD m1000 then its just as good as the JL 10001?

no A&B sound in my area

[car audio dave]

i think its Regulated Internal Power Supply, which is not the technology i was looking for. i thgink its S.M.A.R.T. technology.

[Chuckles1000]

ok so i definatley know what amps to look for
Alpine MRD-M1000
Alpine MRV-F540
or
JL 1000/1
JL 300/4 4-channel amp
ok now im just trying to decide on subs
would 2 W6's be better then a W7?
and would one JL 13 W6 be the best choice?
and once again the guys at my local stereo shop are really pushing the alpine type R's on me lol

[Pte Socks]

hehe yep, because they like them type R's. Not saying they are bad, god no they are not, but for me, I like JL more. Dave, your right, thats what RIPS stands for. I was kicking myself because it came to me at school today and then I wasnt near a computer to say what it was.. grr.. As for subs, id say either 2 JL 12W6 or 2 JL 12W6v2's or one single 13W7

[matts]

all you JL loyalist...........:nervous:

[anteck7]

ill tell you my ppi pcx 480, is no joke, that thing really puts out some power.

[Pte Socks]

hehe sorry matts. But like ive said, ive got no problems with Alpine, simply because those are the systems ive had the most and most favorable feedback from. But call me shallowminded, but ive only really been exposed to car audio for a year and a half or so, not very long at all and before that, I was all phoenix gold becasue my buddy had a PG system that lasted forever and sounded amazing.

[Chuckles1000]

anyone ever bought an amp off ebay?
is it recomended if i can get an amp at half price of retail?

[matts]

well that's up to you. i seriously doubt you get a warranty with it.....no matter WHAT the seller says. it's a risk, so do it with caution. :)

and i dont have a problem with JL, but i think they're like most cars.......they're just too pricey for what they are. they're amps are ALMOST worth it.....i will give them that. but really it's only if you dont have a way to get down to the lower ohms. my crossfire is a fraction of the cost of a comperable size JL, and it sounds just as good for my purposes. but i've got a way to give it the 1 ohm load it wanted, so that makes it worth while.