Headlights very hazy looking

[Candices_SE1]

Maybe this has been discussed before, but here goes......... My headlights on my 2000 GA are Very hazy, I have been told that plastic can actually rust. Has anyone found a good solution to repairing this? I would like to try to repair it before I spend $100 a peice on New headlights!!

[Vince]

You and me both, I can't see sh**t out of my headlights at night, mines are really dim, not bright at all, and I have sylverstars on my car. Maybe it is the casing, but 100 bucks each is quite a bit, maybe someone else on here knows how to fix it.

[rixGAphx]

If you did a search, you would find two major items:

1. Less likely: There is moisture trapped INSIDE the headlight covers, causing a film of condensation. This is usually caused by somebody farting with the cover, and blocking the special moisture vapor relief valve.
Do NOT fucl< with this, as ANY rag or paper you might use will only permanently damage the inside surface of the cover (which actually has the optical properties, and softness, of plastic eyeglasses).

2. More likely: The plastic has 'oxidized', just like the old-fashioned enamels on pre-clear coat car bodies.
It is a haze that is integral with the plastic.
Rust is the oxidation of iron, so whomever told you this is partially correct.
Do NOT sand it or use any abrasive material (like Comet kitchen cleanser, polishing rouge, etc.).
The solution to this problem is at your neighborhood PepBoys/Checker/AutoZone. On the shelf with the car waxes, upholstery cleaners, etc. will be a few brands of cleaners made especially for clear headlight covers.
Choose whichever you feel most comfortable with, and follow directions.

Should clear the cover quickly.

-Rick

[mtnagel]

So what is the remedy if you have condensation on the inside of the headlights? The only thing I've ever done to them is replace the bulb.

Matt

[rixGAphx]

Originally posted by mtnagel
So what is the remedy if you have condensation on the inside of the headlights? The only thing I've ever done to them is replace the bulb.

Matt
Find out how the moisture entered and correct that, then dry the inside of the
The headlight is a sealed housing, consisting of a reflector (rear portion of molded plastic, with shiny chrome plating) is permanently fused to the lens/cover (clear plastic).
SOME composite headlights have a replaceable lens, with silicone sealed edges and clips or screws. I'm not sure on the GA, as I've never had cause to disassemble one. But the theories are the same:

Only three ways for moisture to enter this assembly:
1. Moist air is introduced and trapped at time of bulb installation.
2. Bulb isn't properly sealed, so moist air is 'sucked in' after the hot air (from running the lights) cools and contracts.
3. There's a crack or split somewhere in the sealed housing, allowing water to enter.

1. If the bulb was removed and left out for a few hours, the dry internal air could have picked up moisture, especially on a warm muggy day.
2. The bulb has an O-ring to seal the bulb-to-reflector opening. Make sure it's present and properly seated.
3. Examine for cracks and other sources of water entry.

Finally, the air inside the housing expands and contracts for three reasons:
a. Lights on = heat = increased pressure; lights off = cool = reduced pressure (suction);
b. Sitting in Phx summer sun = heat = increased pressure; night = cool = reduced pressure.
c. Driving from LA (sea level) to Denver = lower outside air pressure/higher pressure inside the housing.

The engineers have installed a pressure-relief nipple on the back of the housing, to allow air to enter/leave the housing.
The nipple is specially designed to prevent any splash water from entering, and some nipples (I believe most GM nipples) have some 'magic' filler that prevents the entry of water vapor (kinda like Gore-Tex or Tyvek housewrap, only in reverse).

If the nipple is plugged or faulty, moisture can't get out as the heated inside air expands.
The moisture stays inside and condenses on the coolest surfaces (usually the clear lens, exposed to cold outside air).

The insides of the housing are never meant to be touched by anything. They are very fragile, and the least bit of touching with even the softest lens cloth will cause permanent deterioration of the clearness (lens) or reflectivity (mirrored reflector).
Basically, if they have some drips or stains you have to live with them or replace the entire housing.

Drying:
1. Make sure the nipple isn't plugged. I dunno if it's replaceable or cleanable.
2. On a dry day, remove the bulb. Blow clean, dry air thru the bulb hole (not your breath, and not high-pressure air from a compressor); maybe a household vacuum with the hose reversed and a tiny adapter nozzle installed.
3. Silica gel packets are used by old-style photographic shops to keep photo equipment dry. They also come packed in consumer electronics. Get some of these packets, and dry them by heating in the sunlight on a window sill.
After blow-drying the housing, stuff a sachet of silica-gel packets lightly into the bulb hole. Make the sachet by stuffing some backets in the toe of old pantyhose.
CAREFUL!! you don't want to burst the packets, or allow them to slip into the housing.
Leave them there for about 30 mins, to absorb remaining moisture from the air.
4. Reinstall the bulb. CAREFUL!! Do NOT touch the glass bulb with fingers; the oils on your skin will cause a hot spot on the glass, which will eventually shatter. If accidently touched, carefully clean the glass with rubbing alcohol.

Most auto body shops are aware of the drying procedures for composite headlights, and some may even have a set price depending on complexity.

[mtnagel]

Or I can just live with it :D

Seriously, thanks for the (lengthy) reply, but that seems too delicate/complex/intricate for me to even mess with. Maybe if I weren't selling the car in 1.5 years I'd be more concerned, but I don't notice any reduced visability at night because of it, so I think I will probably just live with it.

Matt