97 grand am starting problems

[krazyjw73]

ok i bought the car a few weeks ago. when i 1st looked at it they couldn't get the car to run. I played with it gave up got another car to run. test drove the other car. tried the grand am again it started right up. test drove it, like it.the week after bought it. figured the car just set for awhile. drove it home the next day while cleaning it a friend came by wanted to here it I tried to start it ran for a few secs then died then i kept on tryin it always the same. finally i stopped he left tried bout 30 mins later started right up. then later on it wouldn't start again. 1st thought the fuel pump. some 1 told me to hold the key down even after it starts for the few secs and then let off. i did it stayed running but the guages acted like they were in the on position and not running. all dummy lites no rpm's or temp. replaced the ignition no change. started to notice the dummy lites in the on position when some go out it will start but they only go out when the check oil comes on. it starts runs fine. but after doing this over and over it started then the gauges stoped working while it was running dummy lites on. i gave up for the nite. tried it not caring that all the indicators were on it started fine but the instruments acting like its in on position not running. but it is. i tried fuses, connections

[rixGAphx]

My stock answer for GA electrical problems (copyright pending :D ).
I’m gonna sticky this sometime.

A. Check The Battery And All Its Connections!
1. The GA's electrical system is VERY susceptible to minor variations of voltage and load/amperage. This includes the ABS system (if so equipped) which has its own module.
2. Disconnect the negative terminal first, then the positive (this avoids accidental sparking if the wrench slips and hits a metal body/engine part while turning the positive screw).
3. Clean all terminals to shiny metal; remove deposits with a water/baking soda solution, and sand/scrape/polish the metal with sandpaper and knife.
4. The molded red rubber boot on the positive battery terminal allows massive corrosion to develop unseen within the boot.
[This happened to me, and it FRIED the alternator (the alternator 'sensed' a dead battery and tried to put out maximum amperage for recharge, but the power couldn't get thru the corroded connection).]
IMO, cut off this crappy GM rubber boot, and replace with an aftermarket protective cover that can be inspected.
5. Reconnect the battery, first positive and then negative.

B. When connections are VERY bad, any idiot lights can come on and systems can fail for no legitimate reason.

C. I firmly believe that at least 70% of all GA electrical-related problems (and 40% of seemingly non-electrical problems) will be solved by proper and MONTHLY attention to the battery as stated above.

Just passing on my experience.
-Rick