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ace_ga
02-22-2003, 11:56 PM
Alright guys I just have a few questions about engine rebuilding. Well the ol' 3100 is nearing 180,000 miles and as a spring project I want to rebuild it. I just want to know what all is involved in rebuilding an engine. Im not too engine saavy so my uncle will be helping me. Last year i blew the head gaskets and had them replaced. That's not a rebuild is it? Well I want to add some performance parts to it like lightend crank pully, P&P heads, 3400 manifolds, etc. Can the 3400 manifolds be port and polished also. Or is there no need to? Well thanks for any input. Peace

Antalive[DM]
02-23-2003, 07:53 PM
no thats not a complete rebuild. If your wanting to get the real deal. Just look in on a shop and ask what they would do to rebuild. And if you want to do it your self go ahead or get them to do it. But my guess is some more. Plugs and stuff like that too. I dunno about pistons either. But thats why you need to ask a shop if you are serious. One you trust of course. :D

fuel4thesoul
02-27-2003, 12:37 PM
Re-Build Breakdown:
piston rings, rod and main bearings, intake and exhaust valves, valve guides, complete gasket set and thrust washers (only for engines originally equipped with thrust washers). Rings and bearings in standard size only. Auxiliary valves not included.

That is what comes in your everyday rebuild kit.
Takes some work....i've done it a lot have it down to about 4.5 Hrs
of work time....not as easy as you think!!!(Must pull motor).

Jason Lesbirel
02-28-2003, 10:19 AM
Essentially, you pull the engine out, strip everything off and out of the block, replace all gaskets (yes, you'll need another new set of head gaskets), all seals, all rings, install new valve springs and seats (not everybody does this, but with that many miles, why not?), con-rod bearings - pretty much replace all the small parts.

Try and buy everything you need first, including your performance add-ons - it'll help cut down on the amount of time the engine is out of the car.

And you'd be better off with 2000+ 3100 intake manifolds (Malibus, Monte Carlos, Buick Centurys) - they added 15 horsepower to the engine, taking it to the 3400s stock output of 170bhp. And if necessary, they can be further worked on.

(Once it's stripped, consider having the cylinders honed - ask a local engine shop about the process.)

John95GA
02-28-2003, 01:15 PM
From what I've read, the 3400 manifolds don't have much to port; they already flow pretty good. You'll need both the upper AND lower manifolds though, if you go to newer ones--they have different bolt patterns than the older 3100s. That is probably what I'll be doing soon (knocks on wood)--2000 3100 heads/intakes (P&P'd of course) w/ 60+mm TB and maybe some S&S headers.

Marks95GAGT
03-01-2003, 03:07 AM
To rebuild the motor and do it good, you strip the block of everything in cluding freeze plugs. Take it to a shop and have them tank the block and heads.....this will clean them out. Then have them work the block and heads to your specs. If you can find rings that are .030 over size or .060 over size have them bore the block .060 over. This will increase your 3.1 to about a 3.3 - 3.4. Consider having the block and heads decked to level. this will remove any excess metal so the surfaces where the heads mount on the head on and block perfectly flat. Also have them grind the valve seats and valves. There is also the matter of the main bore. You should also check to see if the main bearing seats need to be line bored.

Also give them the pistons to clean and balance. Balancing increases HP and removes that nasty vibration. Do the same with the crank and balancer.

You can get a better cam from GM's perfomance web site.

For rings....try to find gapless rings. These are nice and get the better the metal, i.e. chromoly or better. Same for push rods.

As for springs, get the cam's specs and see what the at rest (closed) and .5" pressures should be and get the springs that match or meet the min for these numbers. This eliminates vavle float and makes sure the vavles doesn't leak at all.

For all your bearings, do go generic. Use something like Clevite. A premium bearing. They are everthing next to your gaskets.

If you can can, get roller rockers also, but only if you can afford them...they are kind of pricey, but will add a little maybe 2 - 5 HP to your engine.

While you are there put in a new oil pump. Get a good high performance one.....one that can move a lot of oil in a hurry.

And last but not least...you are going to need some tools to put it all back together and take it apart.

Good luck man.....

Also the Hynes manuals has a good list of all the specs for rebuilding your motor...

Antalive[DM]
03-01-2003, 10:45 PM
Hmmm... i hope he types 300 word per minute. Because he just gave a nice description. Im thinking of doing a rebuild now lol.
Im to easily persuaded . Just ask jason :lol:

Marks95GAGT
03-02-2003, 11:03 PM
I use to tinker a little on the small and mid block fords. I use to do all kinds of dumb stuff just to see how long the engine would last with my driving habits. Most did pretty good.....except one that lasted about 200miles.....it really didn't like me running for 50 miles in 2nd gear at 65mph....lol

Just remember to take your time and use the right tools. That's my favorite part....I love a new project.....

Later, go to go to Sears!!!!

mikem220153
03-07-2003, 08:07 PM
This is all some pretty sound advise. There is 1 more thing to consider repalcing. You should replace the timing gears and chain as well. It would be a shame to put in all these new parts only to have them wear out prematurely because of a sloppy timing chain and gears.