The dreaded window regulator ahhh!

[tmanz13]

When I bought my 2-door SE two years ago I knew the drivers side window was slowly dying on me. The power windows always amused people because It would moan very loudly when I would open or close it. To open the window, it would come down about half-way and then you'd have to push it as you held in the button. Well it finally died yesterday at the ATM. :tears2: So now, when I press the down button it moves about 1/4 of an inch and sounds like a food processor.

Stinky tuna salad anyone? :dead:

So I priced a new regulator/motor at Auto Zone for 150 and on ebay they run about 45+15. I have my door stuff all off, but there is not much room to work with in that door at all. I was curious if anyone here ever had any luck doing this themselves.. I don't even know where to begin. I'm going to keep the door interior off until I can give it a go.. so I'll be sporting the ghetto door look for awhile.

Anyone ever replace one? or how much did it cost in labor to have a shop do it? It looks like a real pain in the a#$ to do.

Thanks a bunch,

[tenspeed]

A guy on my local (NY) board had a dealer replace a bad motor for $85 using his parts. Call around, he got quotes between $85 and $150.

[rixGAphx]

Haven't done it myself.

I understand it's a PITA, beginning with: you have to grind off the heads of the factory rivets to remove the old one.
You *usually* use nots and bolts to install the new one.

BUT, if your still works, even a 1/4 inch, it's not wasted or broken.
Do a tune-up:
Clean all rust from the mechanism.
Lube the pivots and tracks heavily with grease.
WD-40 is a solvent, NOT a good long-term lubricant for moving parts; don't use it here.
Lube the felt window tracks with silicone spray lube; this won't smear onto the glass like oil or grease when you wash the car.
There's an adjustment/anchor point with a screw or nut at the bottom latch side. Tighten this in proper position so the window travels vertically.
Disconnect the wiring connector from the door switch (prolly already done if the panel is off). With a dental pick and Q-tip with alcohol, remove all gunk from the connector pins and sockets (to allow full flow of available power). Disconnect battery before using flammable alcohol around electrical devices!! :eek:

If this tuneup, which costs virtually nothing but a half-hour labor, isn't successful, then go looking at a replacement.

Good luck.
-Rick

PS: At the very least, do the same switch/connector cleaning at the passenger switch to improve its performance. Not even necessary to remove the panel.
Go the extra mile with a full lube for the passenger door if you have the time.