Performance and nitrous.

[WHOOPhondaASS]

I want to put Niitrous on my GA or something to make it faster. Whats the best way? I know alot about cars and can do alot of things, but I know very little about nitrous systems, would I be able to make several holes in the intake manifold and thread some nozzles in them, and use an electric bottle opener, or is that not going to do anything, or be bad?

[MagusXIII]

Unless you are really going to get serious with a nitrous system, do not waste your time with multi nozzle systems. A single nozzle system is plenty. As to mounting them, yes, you will need to drill and tap your intake to thread the nozzle into it.

If you get a dry kit, YOU MUST install the nozzle BEFORE the MAF sensor while if you get a wet kit, you MUST install it AFTER the MAF sensor.

There really is no "best way" to go about this, but I do feel there is a best kit. By that, I would strongly recommend a wet style kit as it is overall a safer system. With regards to your bottle opener, why not? That is a very handy accessory as it allows you to open and close the bottle without getting into the trunk.

[Brad97GS]

Don, there is one thing I must mention. The Quad 4 doesn't have a MAF sensor - it is a MAP only system. How will this affect the placement of the nozzle?

[WHOOPhondaASS]

Ya, so the one thing I know little about is nitrous.

[mthegodfather]

I would find a nice speed shop in your area and get them to install a ZEX system in your GA. The reason i would go with the ZEX system is because of it being a sealed unit they should be able to set it uup pretty easily.

[Matt95GT]

On a SOHC, I would keep shot size small... 50HP perhaps.

Basicly you need 2 things...
1. Nitrous
2. more fuel! (very important)

Dry kits rely on stock injectors. The ECM won't compensate for Nitrous (since it has no clue) so most common way to add extra fuel is raise fuel pressure via FPR. (Zex "dry" kits connect this way) Nice thing about this... no need to drill/tap the intake manifold... you can easily rig something into the plenum before the TB.

Wet kits need no fuel mods, as a second solenoid dumps in more fuel thru a "fogger" nozzle.

You will need colder non-platinum plugs. Stock fuel pump will be fine on a small shot.

Brad, MAP won't notice the added nitrous... it'll just see the 0 vacuum normalally seen @ WOT... so dry kit placement really doesn't matter.

[WHOOPhondaASS]

I was thinking about 30-35 shot, not 50! And I just bought platinum plugs and installed them. I can take the spare out and put a 10 lb bottle under the carpet there, I tried it with an empty botle my friend has and it fits perfect.

[MagusXIII]

Originally posted by WHOOPhondaASS
I was thinking about 30-35 shot, not 50!
If done right, 50 is very useable. Shoot, I run 75 on my ZX2 with no adverse effects.

And I just bought platinum plugs and installed them.
If you are planning to run nitrous, GET THEM OUT NOW!!!!! Nitrous oxide will utterly DESTROY platinum plugs! I have attached what became of a perfect platinum plug after just one bottle.

I would be very leery of a dry kit. There is NO extra difficulty to install a fuel solenoid. Also, what if there is miscommunication between the controls of the dry kit and the FPR? What if you suddenly lose vacuum to the FPR? Sorry, there is too much to go wrong with a dry kit. Do not listen to what dry proponents claim about fuel pudding. Unless your intake has a ton of bends, like the 24valve Taurus SHO intake, fuel puddling is not a concern. I have never seen fuel puddling in my intake and the pictures of the Q4 intakes I have seen, you have a nice easy shot to the valves. It simply is way too easy to run lean on a dry kit. The ZEX kit may be a sealed unit, but it has more complex controls. All a wet kit has are the two electromagnetic solenoids and a relay.

Wet kits offer another advantage. If you wish to do fine tuning of the a/f mixture, you can add a slightly larger fuel jet to richen up the mixture. Or if you are already a bit too rich, you can add a smaller fuel jet to lean it out a tiny bit. The fine tuning of a wet kit is a very handy feature to have. Adjustable FPRs can do the same thing, but why run richer ALL the time if you only need a bit of extra richness on the juice?

When matt95gt mentions colder non platinum plugs, you only need to go 1 heat range colder for shots up to 75-80. By 100 is when you need to pretty much consider a 2 range colder plug. Not sure about AC/Delco plug coding, but I use NGK plugs and the number in the middle of the plug designation is the heat range. Higher numbers with NGK equal colder plugs. For example, the replacement NGK V-power plug for your 1994 Q4 SE is a NGK part FR4. One heat range colder is the FR5.

But please, if you are going thru with this, get the platinums out now.

http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=350552

[WHOOPhondaASS]

Im not taking them out until I get the kit, and I would feel safer with a smaller shot.

[MagusXIII]

Originally posted by WHOOPhondaASS
Im not taking them out until I get the kit, and I would feel safer with a smaller shot.
No problem. I just have seen too many people put fresh platinums in for nitrous.

Now with running nitrous for your first couple runs, take your plugs out and read them. Look for what appears to be specks of black pepper on the insulator. If you see it, stop running the nitrous until you can richen up the fuel mix. For as cheap as copper plugs are, get 2 or 3 sets so you can see the differences if you need to richen up the system.

[WHOOPhondaASS]

These cars are really poorly made, Im getting rid of mine soon as I can.

[DominionTuner]

Originally posted by WHOOPhondaASS
These cars are really poorly made, Im getting rid of mine soon as I can.



LOL, I gotta ask what happend?

I have to comment on the Zex subject. Please Please Please PLEASE! Stay AWAY from Zex. These kits are dangerous.