View Full Version : ? on shaving
Cwheeler
03-08-2005, 11:08 AM
I want to get my trunk lock shaved and my antena, now my question is when this gets shaved do they jsut paint the are or does the whole car have to be re-painted. yea i know and idiot question but i have no idea.
sunrunner_pei
03-08-2005, 11:10 AM
The decision is up to you. You can try to blend the paint, or you can paint the whole car.
VanishingImage
03-08-2005, 11:48 AM
Most of the time when someone shaves anything,door handles,door locks,antenna's,etc.... A shop or someone will sand down a good area around the part being shaved and then mask off the other stuff and paint,most don't re-paint whole car,atleast no one that I know have repainted the whole unless they were changing colors of the body.So if you were to shave the antenna,a pretty small area,will be sanded down,a piece of metal will be welded in then an area twice as big will be sanded down then primered and re-painted.
ga5speed02
03-08-2005, 12:07 PM
1. its not a stupid question. you just didnt know
2. when it gets painted. the shop can try top blend the paint. thats not a good i dea. you may see some lines in the paint and it will look a different color. here is waht you should do. i know cause i used to work in a body shop. if you do the key hloe on the trunk, just have the trunk painted. if you do the antenia you are going to have to paint the quater pannel, roof, and the driver side quater pannel. every time you shave you something you paint to the seams or edges of that part. its hides all the tape lines. so you dont need to paint the whole car.
VanishingImage
03-08-2005, 12:45 PM
^thats what I ment to say:lol: I had to blend the paint on my kit after the little accident,it wasn't that bad or hard to do but yea,best to take off those parts,lol
ga5speed02
03-08-2005, 12:53 PM
yea you always want to paint to a seam
JoeyK
03-08-2005, 04:47 PM
Here's the way I would do it. (I prep & paint cars everyday, day in, day out)
Assuming your car is a 2 door...
1) for the doors... the base coat (color coat) would be blended to the front of the door(s) & also a good 6 to 8 inches into the quarter panels.
2) for the antenna... I would blend from the door handle on the rt. side onto the trunk & over past the lock hole about 6 to 8 inches.
3) then clearcoat both doors, both quarters (& entire uniside) & the trunk lid. (Uniside meaning the sail panel & a piller included.)
It's the right way to do it & the only way to make it look flawless, by the way.:)
99GrandAMSE
03-08-2005, 05:20 PM
... and that is why I don't paint cars, I don't have the patience :lol:
ga5speed02
03-08-2005, 06:05 PM
^lol
yea koey k your right about the doors but i dont know about going into the quaters. the edege of the door will break up the paint just fine. but your right about the sail pannel and a piller. i also would do the roof as well concidering they are all connected. both sails and A pillers
JoeyK
03-08-2005, 08:38 PM
Thinkabotit.... your painting where the door handles used to be, right beside the quarters. Unless that paint is a dead match, which it seldom is exact, you'll see a differece between the door & the quarter unless you blend the quarter. (The paint can also not match because of temp, humidity & air pressure differences - too many variables) Anyways, it's standard practice. Anything we paint w/in a foot or so of the end of a panel we'll get blend time from the ins. co to make it look right.
Remember, we're not just looking to "break off" w/ the paint in a logical spot, well, yes, with the clear coat we are but for color we're looking to mask any indifferences in the new & existing base color. So the base coat rules how we do the paintjob & then clear the entire panels involved once the job has been satisfactivly blended.
Of course there are some special instances where I blend the clear & buff the line but that wouldn't apply to this inquirey.;)
JoeyK
03-08-2005, 08:44 PM
Originally posted by 99grandamse
... and that is why I don't paint cars, I don't have the patience :lol:
Oh, hey... I forgot to comment. If I can do it, w/ a little training & alot of practice you could do it too! I think I have mentioned on more than one occasion I am one of the most impatient ***tards you could ever meet!:lol:
ga5speed02
03-08-2005, 08:57 PM
you make a good point no doubt about it. but i think most shope just try to break off the base coat
99GrandAMSE
03-08-2005, 09:14 PM
Originally posted by JoeyK
... I am one of the most impatient ***tards you could ever meet!:lol:
... I sincerely DOUBT you can be worse than I am in that respect Scott ... maybe someday we'll meet and see :lol:
JoeyK
03-08-2005, 09:49 PM
Originally posted by ga5speed02
you make a good point no doubt about it. but i think most shope just try to break off the base coat
Little things like that seperate the mediocre from the best!;)
I know what you mean, alot will try n cut corners but we look at it this way, we run an average of 10 cars a day through our paintshop so we don't want anything coming back from final inspection to redo. What may look ok in the booth may not look ok out in the daylight so we error on the safe side & most ins. co's provide the extra time to do the blend, except some don't pay for plastic to metal blends (bumpers).
Just pointing out, blending is done by all major bodyshops & is an industry standard, there are no distinguishible lines from blending unless you did it wrong.
ga5speed02
03-08-2005, 09:53 PM
i know what you mean. i worked ina body shop for about 6 mo. i had to leave cause this one guy there was a dick, like paul sr from OCC but like a million times worse. just meade me feel like i was less then scum. but one day i intend on owning my own custom shop. doing interior work mostly but tackle everything. body, suspention, systems the works. also sell some stuff for extra money. intakes, strut bars etc...
oh well. i want to get into air bags too. they rule lol. :offtopic: sorry,
but getting to the point. if someone is shaveing like door handles, trunk, antina, moldings then its almost worth it to get the whole car re-spraid
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