View Full Version : 2002 SE noise when driving
Hello all, I am mostly a Jeep guy but the wife has a 2002 Grand AM SE.
The problem is a whine or grand noise when the wheel are turning, I thought maybe it was the tires so I jack it up and let the engine turn the wheels, same thing.
When driving it sounds like the engine is reving up but it's not, it kinda sounds like it's coming from the driver side.
I couldn't find any noticeable play in the wheel and the CV shaft seem ok, no tears are anything.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Could this be a bearing of some sort?
2002 GA SE
Also, does anyone have a download location for a FSM in PDF for the 2002 SE ?
DarksideGA
03-21-2005, 08:59 PM
check ur shrouding in the wheel well for any signs of rubbing or scuff marks, crank the wheels both ways to ensure that they have proper clerance, if that doesnt show u where its comming from drive in a circle around someone and have them try and focus in on what area of the wheel well the sounds commin from
no rubbing, using stock wheels and tires that are about 2 years old. I thought maybe it was the tires from the wear but even with the vehicle on jack stands and putting the vehicle in drive and spinning the wheels it makes the noise.
I think it's probably the wheel bearings, are they the same for each side or is there a left and right? Also, how big is the nut to remove it 33mm ?
4kQuad
03-22-2005, 06:57 AM
With the front wheel in the air, grab the tire at 12 and 6. Wiggle and pull, if you get much movement.....that would be a bearing.
Compare, lift and back tire and grab it at 12 and 6, the front should be just as tight as the rear. if there is a lot more play in the front...it's a good chance a bearing is going.
brsexton
03-22-2005, 07:20 AM
I bet its the bearing. Mine did not have any movement in it at all, but it made a BAD noise. The dealership replaced it.
Hmmm, ok. Does anyone have an FSM in PDF format or can tell me the hub nut size? Is it 33mm ?
I just want to buy the right socket before starting this venture.
Thanks!
tenspeed
03-22-2005, 09:30 AM
A wheel bearing will make noise during a turn. A bad power steering pump will make noise all the time. Check it for fluid and noise.
Have a mechanic check it out.
Originally posted by tenspeed
A wheel bearing will make noise during a turn. A bad power steering pump will make noise all the time. Check it for fluid and noise.
Have a mechanic check it out.
A mechanic? Why spend the $$ when you can do the work yourself...
The reason for the post is to see if maybe this was a common problem. It only has 70000kms on it, I wouldn't think the wheel bearing would be bad already...
Oh well.
brsexton
03-22-2005, 10:42 AM
HAHA this is GM your talking about. Mine went bad at 34k. It made noise all of the time. And would louder the faster I drove. This is a common problem on the newer n-body cars..
SFusionX
03-22-2005, 05:03 PM
i ahve the same problem, it seems to be in my left wheel when i turn the wheel left at a moving pace.... i've tried to solve this problem but nothing seems to work. I guess i'll have to check the bearings
john_ertw
03-22-2005, 05:55 PM
I have the same problem with 82,000km on the clock. It's the wheel hub. The bearing is integrated into the hub which will cost ~$450CDN at the dealer, but you can find it for around $170CDN. I'm going to have a new one installed this weekend. I bought a SKF made hub (P/N BR930080) at Part Source. They told me it was a Chicago Rawhide (who is owned by SKF) made part but the box only says SKF on it. Napa sells the identical bearing but for $250CDN although I found different Napa locations sell parts for different prices and made by different manufacturers.
The newer SKF hubs include a bolt that is a new design. SKF says it distributes the load more evenly and to torque it to only 173lb-ft instead of 284lb-ft. They say this should help prolong the bearing life. I went to both Part Source and Napa and only the Napa hubs included the nut. I bet Part Source had the parts sitting on a shelf for a while and they were manufactured before SKF included the nut.
I also had my ABS light, trac off light, and service vehicle soon light on. In order to determine which side was bad, I jacked up the car, unplugged the sensor on one of the bearings and plugged in the new bearing. I turned the car on and checked to see if the light went off. I suspected the drivers side was bad on my vehicle so tried it first and sure enough the lights went out when the new hub was plugged in.
After I get the unit in I will write to say how the SKF hub actually works.
SFusionX
03-22-2005, 06:10 PM
the only thin with mine is that the lights havent came on. However, when I backup out of my driveway then but it in drive it the low trac light comes on, it also comes on sometimes when u hit random little bumps, etc. But that's probabyl expected.
john_ertw
03-22-2005, 08:09 PM
Originally posted by SFusionX
the only thin with mine is that the lights havent came on. However, when I backup out of my driveway then but it in drive it the low trac light comes on, it also comes on sometimes when u hit random little bumps, etc. But that's probabyl expected.
I don't think that's normal. I never had the lights come on unless my tires were spinning (due to snow). But then again I don't drive very hard which may cause the symptoms you describe.
SFusionX
03-22-2005, 08:16 PM
i dont slam on the gas when i go. i just think it has something to do with the bearing so it trips the light and it comes on.
Ya, I paid 173$CDN at Canadian Tire and it came with the nut. Who the Hell has a torque wrench for 284ft lbs.... ANyways OBVIOUSLY GM really goofed i nteh design and I think the little paper had a part number for the nut from GM. (a TSB or something) Those whose bearings are still good should maybe switch to this nut and only torque to 173 ft/lbs. might get another 50k out of them.
Anyways, it was the right side bearing, had NO play bu I removed the brake pads and rotor and let it turn in drive, noise was still there, didn't do it with the left side wheel in the air.
So after getting all the way to the hub assembly I removed it (that was fun, rent a slide hammeR) oh ya and the nut size on the new one is 36mm. 36mm will remove the old one but there is alot of play, it almost rounded mine, but thanks fully I have an air impact gun.
nice smooth ride now, the wife will be happy.
Originally posted by john_ertw
I have the same problem with 82,000km on the clock. It's the wheel hub. The bearing is integrated into the hub which will cost ~$450CDN at the dealer, but you can find it for around $170CDN. I'm going to have a new one installed this weekend. I bought a SKF made hub (P/N BR930080) at Part Source. They told me it was a Chicago Rawhide (who is owned by SKF) made part but the box only says SKF on it. Napa sells the identical bearing but for $250CDN although I found different Napa locations sell parts for different prices and made by different manufacturers.
The newer SKF hubs include a bolt that is a new design. SKF says it distributes the load more evenly and to torque it to only 173lb-ft instead of 284lb-ft. They say this should help prolong the bearing life. I went to both Part Source and Napa and only the Napa hubs included the nut. I bet Part Source had the parts sitting on a shelf for a while and they were manufactured before SKF included the nut.
I also had my ABS light, trac off light, and service vehicle soon light on. In order to determine which side was bad, I jacked up the car, unplugged the sensor on one of the bearings and plugged in the new bearing. I turned the car on and checked to see if the light went off. I suspected the drivers side was bad on my vehicle so tried it first and sure enough the lights went out when the new hub was plugged in.
After I get the unit in I will write to say how the SKF hub actually works.
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