Ask A Detailer

[Detailed Image]

Being a professional detailer, I thought I would open a thread for people to ask their questions about exterior and interior care of their vehicles. Don't be afraid to post up any questions that you have no matter how simple or complex it is. I'll do my best to respond promptly.

Sincerely,

George @ Detailed Image

[ec-nasty]

What is the best way to remove winter road salt from my carpets? Also, what line of detailing products would you recommend, for cleaning the interior? Thank You for your time.

[Detailed Image]

ec-nasty,

Best method I have found to remove grime from carpets is as follows.

Items needed:

Vacuum
Carpet/Fabric Cleaner
Firm Bristle Carpet Brush
Water
*Recommended but optional Fabric Guard

Steps:
1. Brush mats / carpets to loosen up debris
2. Vacuum up as much debris as you can
3. Spray carpet cleaner - we suggest 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover (http://secure.detailedimage.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DI&Product_Code=3006&Category_Code=Carpet) - and let it sit and be absorbed in the fabric
4. Prior to scrubbing with the firm bristle brush spritz carpets / mats down with water to help remove dirt and stains
5. Scrub carpets / mats with a firm bristle brush (like this one) (http://secure.detailedimage.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DI&Product_Code=PD10&Category_Code=CarpAcc)while water is present on surface
6. Allow time for the surface to dry
7. Vacuum mats and carpets
8. Heavy debris and stain may require additional cleaning solution
9. Protect your new carpets / mats with a fabric guard - we suggest 303 High Tech Fabric Guard (http://secure.detailedimage.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DI&Product_Code=3004&Category_Code=Carpet)

This should get most of the carpets / mats clean. Let me know how this works out for you.

Sincerely,

George

[ec-nasty]

It worked great, Thank You very much. I will now tackle my engine on Tuesday.:cool:

[Detailed Image]

Thanks for getting back to me. Let me know if you need any help with engine detailing :)

Glad things worked out for you.

George

[amerks217]

George,

Please advise as I am about to clean my engine, what works best ??. Currently for the outside I use PRO Miricle Wax 1 time a month weather willing and the shine is just awesome !!.

[backwash]

Originally posted by Detailed Image
Being a professional detailer, I thought I would open a thread for people to ask their questions about exterior and interior care of their vehicles. Don't be afraid to post up any questions that you have no matter how simple or complex it is. I'll do my best to respond promptly.

Sincerely,

George @ Detailed Image

Do you have any thoughts as to what I could used to remove the dog hair from my seats? I've vacuumed, used a sticky roller and a lint brush and am still having difficulties. I'm going to be purchasing seat covers soon but would still like to get it off.

thanks.

[ec-nasty]

I don't know how much dog hair you have, but I used strips of duct tape to get rid of the hair in my car. The dog only rides in the wifes car now. Lol

[ec-nasty]

Is there another soap I can use with my pressure washer, other then the expensive, special pressure washer soap?

[roksoc]

hi I wanna clean my engine and make it look all nice and shiny what products do you suggest for making the engine look like it was just bought new.

[Detailed Image]

Sorry for the delay, I have been out of town.

For engine cleaning... Things you want to keep in mind are as follows.

1) Try to remove as much debris as you can before working on your engine (leaves, road debris, etc.) You can use either a brush or an air compressor to help assist you.

2) Protect parts of the engine that you don't want to be saturated with water to cause a short (such as distributor, spark plug openings, sensors, etc.) Use either aluminum foil or a plastic bag

Tip: Work with a warm but not HOT engine, this helps degrease the engine faster

3) Once protected spray a degreaser onto the engine and let sit for a few minutes. Work from the bottom of the engine bay up to the top. Be careful not to use too strong of a degreaser as it may discolor rubber and vinyl in your engine compartment.

4) After the degreaser sits for a few minutes, scrub any heavily soiled areas with a brush. Heavily soiled areas may need additional cleaner as well.

5) Hose down the engine compartment and allow it to dry. Once dry start the engine and let it run for a few minutes. This will help assist in the drying process.

6) Once the engine is dry protect your cleaned engine with the appropriate products.

Products we suggest:

Engine Degreaser: 303 Aerospace Cleaner (http://secure.detailedimage.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DI&Product_Code=3011&Category_Code=3000)

Rubber/Vinyl Protectant: 303 Aerospace Protectant (http://secure.detailedimage.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DI&Product_Code=3001&Category_Code=3000)

Plastic Protectant: Plexus Plastic Cleaner and Polish (http://secure.detailedimage.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DI&Product_Code=PX01&Category_Code=PX00)

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

As far as the dog hair goes. Duct tape can work quite well but becareful around seems as it can be tough on them.

We actually do sell a brush designed to pick up on hairs. It is a rubber brush that utilizes electrostatic energy to pick them up. I have tried it once and seemed to work well but it is a promo item and I only have one of them in stock to sell right now.

Here is a link to it - Pet Fur Brush (http://secure.detailedimage.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DI&Product_Code=PD02&Category_Code=CarpAcc)

Hope this answers most of your questions. Feel free to keep them coming, once again sorry for the delay I was out of town.

Sincerely,

George

[mrbigles]

Hello George.

Have a question or 2. I was looking through your web-site and noticed that you have just about every product that a person could need for their cars.. however, there seemed to be too many options for my small brain to handle.. :)

So.. here is what I have... a 99 2-door Grand Prix that is black and has a leather interior.

I would like to know what products you would suggest that I use in order to make my car shine and to protect my interior.

Some things to keep in mind/add to your comments..

1. The original wash would have to be @ a car wash. (apt. living sucks)

2. Application of products processes and order.

Thanks in advance.

John

[Detailed Image]

John,

Interior cleaning can be just as much work as the exterior.

1) I brush down the whole interior w/ a carpet brush

2) Do a quick vacuum of the debris (doesn't have to be perfect this isn't the final vacuum)

3) Spot treat any stains with an upholstery cleaner

303 Cleaner & Spot Remover (http://secure.detailedimage.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DI&Product_Code=3006&Category_Code=Carpet)is pre-dilluted to fight tough stains on carpet and upholstery - $7.99

303 Fabric Cleaner (http://secure.detailedimage.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DI&Product_Code=3003&Category_Code=Carpet)is a concentrate that you can dillute to different ratio's depending on the stain or surface you are cleaning - $14.99

4) Scrub the stains with an upholstery brush

5) Clean vinyl & rubber areas with a cleaner - We suggest using 303 Aerospace Cleaner (http://secure.detailedimage.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DI&Product_Code=3011&Category_Code=3000)the nice thing about this product is it can double up as your carpet cleaner as well. Just dillute it to the proper ratio. This sells for $16.99 so you can kill 2 birds with 1 stone with this product. It is also a concentrate.

6) You can protect your vinyl from UV rays and help repel dust with a product like 303 Aerospace Protectant (http://secure.detailedimage.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DI&Product_Code=3001&Category_Code=3000). This in combination with 303 Aerospace Cleaner are a great duo. 16oz bottle is just $12.99 (Total $28.98 so far)

7) 303 duo that was just mentioned will do a great job on plastic too. I clean plastic trim next. If you are looking for a dedicated plastic cleaner we suggest Plexus Plastic Cleaner & Polish (http://secure.detailedimage.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DI&Product_Code=PX01&Category_Code=PX00). This product will literally repel dust for weeks on plastic. Works great for headlight lenses as well. Plexus runs $7.49 for 7oz or $9.99 for 13oz.

8) Next your leather will want to be treated. Depending on the condition of your leather you may or may not want to invest in a leather rejuvenator. Lexol makes a cost effective product that does a great job on treating your leather.

Lexol Products Here (http://secure.detailedimage.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=DI&Category_Code=LX00)

They have a Cleaner, Conditioner, and a Restorer. Each runs $8.99 and depending on the condition of your leather will determine if you need the Restorer. You would want to pick up at least the cleaner and conditioner.

If you want to splurge on your leather and give it a "make over" go with Leatherique. I am not exactly sure what kind of leather is in the Grand Am's, is it vinyl'ish leather / pleather? or a true leather? Leatherique is a top notch leather rejuvenator and cleaner (2 step process) and is the choice of Bentley and Rolls Royce owners. They run $17.99 for the Pristine Clean (cleaner) and $27.99 for the Rejuvenator Oil (restorer). I can give you more details if you are interested in them.

Running Total: $47.96

9) Treating the glass is always last. On my website right now I only have Diamondite glass cleaner on there which runs $4.99 for the 6oz bottle or $6.99 for the 18oz. The nice thing about this glass cleaner is it is a foaming product not water based which tends to leave more streaks. I have 2 more glass cleaning products coming in this week so I'll keep this thread updated in the next few days. Stoners Invisible Glass and a new company Unelko (created from the maker of Rain-X).

Running Total: $52.95

10) I do a final vacuum to suck up any debris that might have fallen from cleaning other surfaces, and usually follow up by brushing the upholstery and carpets all in the same direction.

This should make your interior come out like new. This is pretty much the basic process that covers everything. So the products you would need would be:

- 303 Areospace Cleaner 32oz: carpets, vinyl, rubber, plastic, engine degreaser
- 303 Aerospace Protectant 16oz: vinyl, rubber (dash & engine)
- Lexol pH Leather Cleaner 500ml
- Lexol Leather Conditioner 500ml
- Diamondite Glass Cleaner 6oz

$52.95 - 10% off April Orders

Other things you might want to consider would be microfiber towels if you haven't used them before. They don't leave lint behind and do an excellent job trapping dust and debris. They are the towel of choice and do make the jobs come out better and save time in the long run.

Hope this helps for now, if you want it more elaborate than this let me know. Also let me know if I missed anything!

Sincerely,

George

[JayDoc]

I have some polishing questions, George. When you need to increase aggressiveness to remove swirls, scratches, etc., do you change polishing product to a more aggressive one while using the same type of pad, use the same product and change to a more aggressive pad, or increase aggressiveness of both pad and product? This is assuming that the product/pad combo that isn’t working has been thoroughly worked at different speeds and tried at least a couple of times.

I have a pc and use the Sonüs line of polishes along with their DAS pads and have Propel pads to fill the gaps in aggressiveness. They’ve worked fine before but this winter was rough with a lot of ice. There are still some light scratches (won’t catch on my fingernail) that weren’t removed with Sonüs’ SFX-2 polish and green polishing pad :mad: This is the first time I have had to think about using a different combo on my GT because it always worked. My paint is still in great shape overall except for the scratches, which aren’t that bad but I don’t want them. I’m a little hesitant about going to the next aggressive polish, SFX-1, because it has more cutting ability and was made for heavy scratches/swirls. I was thinking about using an orange pad with SFX-2 to see if it made a difference.

The various detailing forums have info about only using pads that match the product--using pads that are more aggressive than the product only leads to marring/dulling from the pad, or using aggressive products with less aggressive pads creates scouring because the polish/cutting agent doesn’t heat up enough to be effective. Then there are many who say that mixing pad and product type is the best way to make finer adjustments in aggressiveness. There are so many options, so I thought I’d ask someone who has experience with this. I only want to increase aggressiveness just enough to be effective.

Thanks. It's good to have a pro around to answer questions :thumbup:

[erimar77]

what do you think of Zanio products? i swear by them

[Detailed Image]

Originally posted by JayDoc
I have some polishing questions, George. When you need to increase aggressiveness to remove swirls, scratches, etc., do you change polishing product to a more aggressive one while using the same type of pad, use the same product and change to a more aggressive pad, or increase aggressiveness of both pad and product? This is assuming that the product/pad combo that isn’t working has been thoroughly worked at different speeds and tried at least a couple of times.

I have a pc and use the Sonüs line of polishes along with their DAS pads and have Propel pads to fill the gaps in aggressiveness. They’ve worked fine before but this winter was rough with a lot of ice. There are still some light scratches (won’t catch on my fingernail) that weren’t removed with Sonüs’ SFX-2 polish and green polishing pad :mad: This is the first time I have had to think about using a different combo on my GT because it always worked. My paint is still in great shape overall except for the scratches, which aren’t that bad but I don’t want them. I’m a little hesitant about going to the next aggressive polish, SFX-1, because it has more cutting ability and was made for heavy scratches/swirls. I was thinking about using an orange pad with SFX-2 to see if it made a difference.

The various detailing forums have info about only using pads that match the product--using pads that are more aggressive than the product only leads to marring/dulling from the pad, or using aggressive products with less aggressive pads creates scouring because the polish/cutting agent doesn’t heat up enough to be effective. Then there are many who say that mixing pad and product type is the best way to make finer adjustments in aggressiveness. There are so many options, so I thought I’d ask someone who has experience with this. I only want to increase aggressiveness just enough to be effective.

Thanks. It's good to have a pro around to answer questions :thumbup:

JayDoc,

Unfortunately since we have an account with Lake Country I only use their pads and don't know the scale of aggressiveness with the Sonus line, but I'll answer in the way that I would if you said the LC were the pads you were using.

LC's aggressiveness is as follows from cutting to finishing:

Yellow - cutting
Orange - light cutting
Green - dual purpose
White - polishing
Black - finessing
Blue - finishing

You are absolutely correct when you say you aren't going to put your most aggressive compound on a blue finishing pad, and you are not going to apply a hand glaze with a yellow cutting pad. Surprisingly enough there are people out there w/ just 1 or 2 pads and will do that. I should take a pic of all my pads and post it we have a mountain of them, 1 product per pad some products have multiple pads for cases like what you are describing.

In your case I'm going to assume the sonus green is like a LC - white (your goto polishing pad). The next step in progression that I would take would be to goto the LC - Orange light cutting pad (so whatever the equal pad from Sonus is). If that was not to do the trick, you could try the SFX-1 and go back to your green polishing pad with the progression to more aggressive LC - orange if again that didn't do the trick.

If that combination was working for you in the past (SFX-2 + green pad) and now it does not, you best bet would be to tweek the pad to something a little more aggressive because it sounds like the SFX-2 was doing the job on the type of imperfections you talk of.

Hope this answers your questions JayDoc, ask away if you want me to clear something up for you.

Sincerely,

George @ Detailed Image

[Detailed Image]

Originally posted by erimar77
what do you think of Zanio products? i swear by them

Zaino products are good products if you take the time to do their whole system. The problem with Zaino products is they are not user friendly with other brands of products and they tend to mislead you with product names, ie naming polishes that are really a form of wax or sealant. From my experience I would not say they are the "best" though, definately good though.

One of the best things you'll notice with the brands and products I stock is they are very versatile and work well with other brands so many people tinker with mixing and matching to fine tune their detailing experience.

Sincerely,

George

[JayDoc]

Originally posted by Detailed Image
JayDoc,

Unfortunately since we have an account with Lake Country I only use their pads and don't know the scale of aggressiveness with the Sonus line, but I'll answer in the way that I would if you said the LC were the pads you were using.

LC's aggressiveness is as follows from cutting to finishing:

Yellow - cutting
Orange - light cutting
Green - dual purpose
White - polishing
Black - finessing
Blue - finishing

You are absolutely correct when you say you aren't going to put your most aggressive compound on a blue finishing pad, and you are not going to apply a hand glaze with a yellow cutting pad. Surprisingly enough there are people out there w/ just 1 or 2 pads and will do that. I should take a pic of all my pads and post it we have a mountain of them, 1 product per pad some products have multiple pads for cases like what you are describing.

In your case I'm going to assume the sonus green is like a LC - white (your goto polishing pad). The next step in progression that I would take would be to goto the LC - Orange light cutting pad (so whatever the equal pad from Sonus is). If that was not to do the trick, you could try the SFX-1 and go back to your green polishing pad with the progression to more aggressive LC - orange if again that didn't do the trick.

If that combination was working for you in the past (SFX-2 + green pad) and now it does not, you best bet would be to tweek the pad to something a little more aggressive because it sounds like the SFX-2 was doing the job on the type of imperfections you talk of.

Hope this answers your questions JayDoc, ask away if you want me to clear something up for you.

Sincerely,

George @ Detailed Image

Thanks, George. It sounds like my solution is something you have done. It’s nice to have a couple more in-between options rather than only going to a more aggressive polish and pad. You’re right about green being my goto pad. I’ll try orange next.

Sonüs’ line is pretty similar to LC’s except for the polishing pad color. I used this pad table (http://autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=522603#post522603) (1st post in link) to translate between manufacturers.

[matts]

i've got a $64 thousand dollar question: can you clean up the GA headlights??

i've got some scratches on my plexiglass for my gauges. i've got some plexi cleaner that is supposed to remove scratches, and it did some of them. i've even tried the home remedy of toothpaste and toothbrush. and while it left my truck smelling like a mint for a couple of days it didn't get any scratches out. what would you use?

i've got brushed aluminum rims. i can get the majority of the rim with a good polish, but there is one of part of the rim i can't get. or i can, but it would take HOURS to do right for each rim. do you know of some kind of polish that will clean the hard to get areas and doesn't require very much rubbing?

[GrandAmSS]

I have a couple of questions.

1. Are clay bars really that effective?

2. What is the best way to get the chromtech rims all shiny and new?

[Detailed Image]

Originally posted by GrandAmSS
I have a couple of questions.

1. Are clay bars really that effective?

2. What is the best way to get the chromtech rims all shiny and new?

1. Depends on the car and your detailing routine... Clay bars will remove surface contamination and if you have a lot, it will definately increase the final result of the detail. If your car does not suffer from contaminants (run your fingers over your paint and see how smooth it is or isn't) and you polish on a regular basis, clay bars will be less effective.

2. I had a tough time deciding what to use when I did leanne's rims but I ended using Klasse All-In-One acrylic polish. This will also give you a few months of protection b/c it is an acrylic as well as shine them up quite nicely.

[b2089]

My car has the factory chrome 16 inch wheels. Should I wax them? They don't really get that dirty, but I'm concerned that my less than stellar attention to detail may do them harm.

[Detailed Image]

It will just help in washing them next time around b/c debris and break dust will wash right off w/ ease.

[Jscarano13]

swirlmarks? ie spiderwebs in paint. should i use a soft pad buffer and which product of yours to remove them. how long will the results last?

[03xGAxSE]

another tip for dog hair: use a laytex glove and pull the hair together then vac....

i use this technic at my shop, i think it works better than the brush...

also, i like to blow out my carpets and seats before i start any detail work, i take an air compressor and blow out under the seats, every square inch of the carpet, use it to dust the spare tire, it helps to insure that that frenchfry you droped a year and a half ago leaves the vehicle, as well as bring up all that "deep down grunge" to the surface, so a vacuum and scrubbing will get it out

[Detailed Image]

Swirl marks can be reduced / eliminated with an abrasive polish... Our goto polish for that would be the Poorboy's Super Swirl Remover 2.5 which is a pretty aggressive polish. You would then follow up with a finishing polish to remove any hazing the 2.5 may have caused which would be like Super Swirl Remover 1 a less aggressive polish and more of a finishing polish... Other options would be the Menzerna Duo on our homepage the Intensive Polish and Final Polish II ... Also excellent results. If you are doing it by hand or with a random orbital buffer I'd suggest the SSR by Poorboy's... if you're using a heavy duty rotary I like Menzerna.

If your using a buffer use the SSR 2.5 with a cutting pad or a polishing pad depending on how bad the marks are... Follow up w/ a polishing pad for SSR 1.

All of the polished mentioned can be found by clicking here (http://secure.detailedimage.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=DI&Category_Code=Pure)

Sincerely,

George

[Detailed Image]

Originally posted by 03xGAxSE
another tip for dog hair: use a laytex glove and pull the hair together then vac....

i use this technic at my shop, i think it works better than the brush...

also, i like to blow out my carpets and seats before i start any detail work, i take an air compressor and blow out under the seats, every square inch of the carpet, use it to dust the spare tire, it helps to insure that that frenchfry you droped a year and a half ago leaves the vehicle, as well as bring up all that "deep down grunge" to the surface, so a vacuum and scrubbing will get it out

Great points... we also use compressed air in our shop and can be very handy for detailing interiors and exteriors...

George

[HighwayProwlerz]

You have been so informative.... now I have a question. I have a 33 year old 240Z in desperate need of detailing and restoration. The paint is oxidizing and the engine bay if full of think grit down at the bottom of the firewalll that I just can't get clean with degreaser, scrub brushes, and a power washer. The stuff is caked on think like it's been there for 33 years... any suggestions?????

[Detailed Image]

steam cleaner w/ a brush tip is what we just used in a similar situation... wiped it off w/ a microfiber sprayed w/ a degreaser... Usually the heat from steam will break up grime quite nicely.

[HighwayProwlerz]

Thanks, I got most of it off already... I'll give that a shot to get the rest.

[RM FAN]

Need some advice....I used Zainos 1 and 5 to remove swirls and did not notice a difference. I tried 3-4 applications by hand without success. I tried micro fiber and white towels for removal and used the applicator from Zaino. Do you need a buffer to remove swirls?
Its a 2004 black SC/T.

[Detailed Image]

Zaino products do not contain abrasives so you will not be able to remove swirls only hide them temporary with their fillers. You need an abrasive compound such as Poorboy's Super Swirl Remover 2.5 to effectively remove them. Follow up the SSR 2.5 with SSR 1 a less abrasive polish to clean up and polish the hazing 2.5 may have caused. Poorboy's SSR's sell for $12.99 each . Another good choice would be Menzerna's line Intensive Polish and Final Polish II but they work best w/ a buffer. They are $13.99 and $14.99 respectively.

Click Here to View our Polishes (http://secure.detailedimage.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=DI&Category_Code=Pure)

Bottom line is you need a polish (compound) with abrasives to wear down to the level of the swirls to actually rid of them.

George

[Evil Tender]

What In your opinion is the best Wax for cars? Also any idea how this Mr. Clean Car waxing kit works?

[Detailed Image]

Originally posted by Evil Tender
What In your opinion is the best Wax for cars? Also any idea how this Mr. Clean Car waxing kit works?

To better answer you question, you would have to specify best as in best durability, best for gloss, or best bang for the buck. I personally would have a different pick for all 3 of those categories.

The Mr. Clean Car Wash thing basically utilizes the filter system to generate pure H2O on your car. The water sheets right off since there are no minerals, chlorine, etc. in the water and helps aid in the drying process.

As far as the best protection in a wax, hands down I'd pick an acrylic sealant such as Klasse High Gloss Sealant or Menzerna FMJ

For best gloss and depth I'd have to go with a pure carnauba such as P21S Concours Carnauba or Natty's Paste Wax

Best bang for the buck I would pick Poorboy's EX Sealant which has a hint of carnauba so in this case you get the best of both worlds for a mere $15.99. 4+ mo protection w/ the look of a carnauba.

You can find all of those products I've mentioned here:

http://secure.detailedimage.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=DI&Category_Code=Wax

All of the brands we carry and stock are a step up from the Mother's, Meg's stuff, Turtle Wax, etc. you'll see on retail shelves. And as you can see its not that much more money but the results definately are worth it.

Sincerely,

George

[JayDoc]

Originally posted by RM FAN
Need some advice....I used Zainos 1 and 5 to remove swirls and did not notice a difference. I tried 3-4 applications by hand without success. I tried micro fiber and white towels for removal and used the applicator from Zaino. Do you need a buffer to remove swirls?
Its a 2004 black SC/T.

Sal very recently released Z-PC (http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=Zaino) that's designed to remove swirls and clean.

Here are some initial reviews:

http://detailcity.com/showthread.php?p=127094#post127094post127094

http://autopia.org/forum/showthread.php?t=57815

You have to sift through all the political crap/bashing :idunno: to get the objective info, but it's there. I'm going to try it even though I'm pleased with Sonüs and Menzerna. Doesn't hurt to experiment.

[RM FAN]

Thanks for the info Jaydoc, you are right about sifting through the crap.
I'm wondering how Z-PC compares to SSR 2.5 and can you use SSR 2.5 and SSR 1 followed by Zaino 5? Are they compatible?

[JayDoc]

Originally posted by RM FAN
Thanks for the info Jaydoc, you are right about sifting through the crap.
I'm wondering how Z-PC compares to SSR 2.5 and can you use SSR 2.5 and SSR 1 followed by Zaino 5? Are they compatible?

I've never used PB, so I have no idea how Z-PC would compare. I asked Sal about using other polishes/cleaners before Z-5, Z-2Pro, and he recommended a Z-7 wash after polishing and before applying either sealant. Most at autopia and detailcity use an alcohol/water wipe down instead of washing with Z-7.

[sc02grandam]

some really good info in this thread

a couple of questions

1. I park near a tree so my car is covered in tree sap.. is there an easy way to get it off?

2. i have aluminum wheels.. whats the proper way to take care of them?

[Detailed Image]

For tree sap: 3M adheasive remover works great, the problem with that is you should polish and wax when your done removing it.

First thing you want to do is clean them as usual to get the majority of the loose grime off. Dry them. The next step would be to polish them to remove oxidation and stubborn stains. For that I would recommend:

P21S Finish Restorer (click here) (http://secure.detailedimage.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DI&Product_Code=P207&Category_Code=WheelCare) - a little goes a long way and this will help bring out the maximum shine and reduce oxidation for your wheels.

After spending all that time on them your best bet would be to put a coat of high temp wheel wax on them. The reason for waxing your wheels is to prevent break dust from accumulating and other road debris. Basic waxes have a melting point of 150 - 200 degrees which isn't much considering the tremendous heat your breaks give off. High temp wheel waxes withstand over 400 degrees which make them a lot more durable.

Poorboy's Wheel Sealant (click here) (http://secure.detailedimage.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DI&Product_Code=PB22&Category_Code=WheelCare) is a great choice and 1 bottle will last you years, again you don't need much product when using it. It also smells like watermelon ...

After those two steps cleaning should be a breeze and dirt should repel right off until the wax is gone. Proper steps in the beginning just make it easier in the long run and it will definately be a solid investment for any of your wheels. The products are safe on all types of wheels.

George

[RM FAN]

George, you recommended SSR2.5 followed by SSR1. Could Zaino 5 be used after the SSR1?

[Detailed Image]

Yes, the 2.5 and 1 would actually remove swirls / imperfections due to being an abrasive polish and the Z-5 would help mask any they couldn't remove being a non abrasive polish with fillers. It would be a final polish step and give you a layer or polymer protection... Another great alternative would be Klasse All-In-One basically the same type of product of Z-5

[eric99gt]

Ok my turn. I've used Zaino pretty regularly for the past 3 years. Well after all the time the paint is starting to show some wear (scratches and such). Now if I wanted to use an abrasive polish would having all that zaino on there cause a problem? If so what should I do?

[Detailed Image]

Using an abrasive polish or even just washing with Dawn dishsoap will strip all the wax off so you will start with a fresh surface. The abrasive polish will wear right thru the Zaino so there's no need to worry about any of that!

George

[rpm77]

have you tried F21 wax from turtlewax, I heard it was really good, can you tell me if you recommend it?

[Detailed Image]

Originally posted by rpm77
have you tried F21 wax from turtlewax, I heard it was really good, can you tell me if you recommend it?

I haven't and probably won't. As far as I'm concerned Turtle wax is similar to the K-mart brand in automotive detailing so we stay away from that. Only stuff we suggest from the retail stores is 3M compounds and glazes and the Pro Line of Megs.

[RM FAN]

Thanks for the info George, I just ordered the summer1 deal. I'll let you know my results.

[Detailed Image]

Sounds good RM can't wait to see what you think!

[rpm77]

I didn't see your reply before I actually bought F21 wax and it works pretty good. I'd recommend it. But thanks for the advise.

[99blackSE]

Ok so one of these days for summer im going to give the car some detailing. Its got quite the bit of scratches, minor ones and a couple like the one by the rear door of John and Leanne's GA:GT. I think they had a scuff mark or something from a parking lot?

What products do you reccomend from start to finish?

[Detailed Image]

Originally posted by 99blackSE What products do you reccomend from start to finish? [/B]

Best thing you could do is pick up our Summer special #2 with:

SSR 2.5 - aggressive polish to get out the bigger scratches / swirls
SSR 1 - brighten up the paint and clean up any hazing that occured
EX - Seal and protect your paint with Poorboy's sealant

+ it gives you 3 applicator pads and 3 microfiber towels to remove the products with for $40! That's you best bet right there.

Prior to that wash / dry... claybar if needed.

Those are the same steps/products we used on Leanne's car and it came out great. Let me know if you have any other questions.

George

[Brandon]

will you come detail my car for free?

i have moderate swirls (car washes in the winter killed it) and cant seem to get rid of em. any suggestions?
ive used about 10-15 different products and still cant get em gone.
(basikly if you walked into autozone and bought anything that claimed to get rid of swirls is what i tried)

[Detailed Image]

Originally posted by Brandon
will you come detail my car for free?

i have moderate swirls (car washes in the winter killed it) and cant seem to get rid of em. any suggestions?
ive used about 10-15 different products and still cant get em gone.
(basikly if you walked into autozone and bought anything that claimed to get rid of swirls is what i tried)

If its that bad you might be better off taking it to a professional who will use a rotary buffer and some heavy cutting polish / compound. It happens all the time for us and that's how we get a lot of our customers. They try to do it themselves and they don't have the right equipment or know how and they end up paying us to do it.

Rotary buffers can generate a ton of heat so it cuts right into the clear coat with minimal effort. On the other hand, an inexperienced person with the rotary can burn right through the paint with ease and can cause more damage than help it.

You can step up to higher grade products but it will only do so much by hand, you'd need to invest in a quality buffer (not the ones for under $50). We sell the Porter Cable model for $130 and that's the best one for the weekend detailer. ($159.99 for the kit w/ velcro backing plate and velcro pad).

Let me know if you have any other ?s

George

[Ex0r]

I know you've answered this question before, but there is alot of pages to go through so i'm going to ask again :)

I've got a quad4 2.4l 92 grand am, and I am looking to detail the engine compartment (make it all shiny and new again). What products would you suggest on a budget, and I have a couple questions.

Do I need to cover up where plugs plug into the engine and etc at? If I forget some, will it hurt my car any ? My spark plugs dont connect via wires, they plug into a box inside the engine compartment..

Some of the parts in the engine are either surface rusty, or caked on with grease, so what would you recommend for them?

Do I clean the car from the top, or do I have to get under the car to clean it as well? Will a toothbrush work for scrubbing, or will i have to get a hard bristled brush?

Also, how do I clean up my alternator, etc, so that it looks fairly new, if I have to cover it up?

I've heard a power washer can damage parts, so is it not recommended to use one, and instead use a hose ?

[devilzfan300]

What order should you use all of these products when washing your car? Note: I am just naming every possible product I know, if I repeat myself or say something that you dont find useful, please point that out.

Car Wash
Wax
Polish
Clay Bar
Rubbing Compound
Polishing Compound

[matts]

i've got a good question. what would you do to get cat piss smell out of a car??

[RedGrandAm2003]

:lol: You're piss!

[matts]

:lol: boy she'd be PISSED if i pissed in her car.

[jorloski]

George,

I bought my 2000 Grand Am from a private seller a couple months ago; the original owner was not nearly as dilligent as she should been in maintaining the appearance of the car, and there is some pretty severe oxidation on the rear bumper. At first I tried just waxing and polishing it; this, of course, didn't solve the problem. Next I tried using some Scotch 3M rubbing compound followed by a round of waxing and polishing, which seemed to work initially, but as soon as the moisture was gone, the oxidation was as bad as ever--I think maybe even worse!

My real question is this: is a clay bar going to do anything that the rubbing compound didn't? I don't know much about either product, but it seems to me that the general premise seems to be the same--removing the old, oxidized layer of paint--and since the 3M compound didn't work I don't want to waste my time with a clay bar if you think it will be equally as futile.

I tried calling around to body shops in my area but to my dismay, for some reason none of them seemed willing to take on a job like this one, so I guess it's up to me to do what I can.

Thanks for any light you (or anyone else who may have had the same prob?) can shed on the subject for me!

[goredsox]

I have some moderate scratches in my baby, but being 13 years old that can be expected... I have tried most scratch/swirl removers with no solution...

She has been washed weekly and been waxed at least 3 or 4 times a year, the paint still shines but there are those prominent scratches on the roof and hood...

I was thinking when i go back to school let the auto body class have a go at her... Since i have auto tech it wont be a problem, i dont really want to pay a professional to buff her, and the class could use the work since they are short on projects usually... Any thoughts???

[Shad0wguy]

Is there any way to clean rock chips from my front bumper w/o having to repaint it?

[Martyr]

Is there any good way to clean gummybears out of an ignition. My kid must have thought my car was hungry. I've got most of the big chunks out but when I stick the key in I can still feel a bit left in there.

Thanks.

[urweak]

pull the ignition out and clean it is about the only thing i can think of.

[jean-seb]

Hi!
I have a concern here. I got my car detailed by a pro shop, they were supposed to clean only the seats and carpet but ended up doing all of it (engine compartment, trunk, exterior, dashboard...). I guess they used a pressure washer to clean the interior so here's my question; where does all the water go ? I think about the water that got into cracks and behind the trim panels, and underneath the carpet and I am worried that it's gonna make my car rust from the inside out. What are your thoughts on that ?

Thanks,
J-S

[Big Joe]

They definitely did not take a pressure washer to the inside of your car. :lol: that would be all kinds of wrong.

[TA^Guy]

BTW, most cars rust from the "inside out."

[jean-seb]

Originally posted by Big Joe
They definitely did not take a pressure washer to the inside of your car. :lol: that would be all kinds of wrong.

I do believe that's what most detailers use.... :roll2:

They are usually careful where they point that thing...but we never know !

TA^Guy: I know that...that's why I don't want to accelerate the process ! :D

J-S

[Blackhawk]

Detailers may use a steamer to clean the inside, I'm pretty sure they don't use pressure washers on anything but the exterior and engine compartment.

[jean-seb]

Originally posted by Blackhawk
Detailers may use a steamer to clean the inside, I'm pretty sure they don't use pressure washers on anything but the exterior and engine compartment.

Would a steamer make the interior wet, enough to need one day and a half to dry ? Because I saw it just after it was done and it looked pretty wet to me...

Anyway, no biggy !
J-S

[coupe]

Here is the skinny on this.

Detailers use a hot water extractor for upholstery. Its kinda like a pressure washer but its high pressured steam instead of straight up water. The nice extractors blow high pressured steam and at the same time sucks up the water. The upholstery will be damp but not wet, it wont hurt a thing. You can have one of your own for ~$2500.

Real enthusiast detailers DO NOT use a pressure washer on the exterior or interior, like Joe said, it would be all kinds of wrong :lol:

[jean-seb]

Originally posted by coupe
Here is the skinny on this.

Detailers use a hot water extractor for upholstery. Its kinda like a pressure washer but its high pressured steam instead of straight up water. The nice extractors blow high pressured steam and at the same time sucks up the water. The upholstery will be damp but not wet, it wont hurt a thing. You can have one of your own for ~$2500.

Real enthusiast detailers DO NOT use a pressure washer on the exterior or interior, like Joe said, it would be all kinds of wrong :lol:

Thanks coupe !
That's the kind of details I wanted about those steamers... now I can sleep !

Hahaha !
Thanks again,
J-S

[coupe]

You dont have anything to worry about, sleep good :lol:

[kaveman1551]

What do u recommend for getting scratches and little dents out of ur exterior of the car?

[Big Joe]

Originally posted by jean-seb
I do believe that's what most detailers use.... :roll2:

They are usually careful where they point that thing...but we never know !

pressure washers dump like 5 gallons of water a minuet. Your car would take much more then a a day or two to dry out. say they worked on the interior of your car for 15 minuets, that would be 75 gallons of water inside your car. you can roll your eyes at me all day long but people are definitely not using pressure washers on the interiors of cars.

[Big Joe]

Originally posted by Blackhawk
Detailers may use a steamer to clean the inside, I'm pretty sure they don't use pressure washers on anything but the exterior and engine compartment.

A real detailer wouldn't even use a pressure washer on the exterior of a car. In fact lower pressure, such as a hose with no nozzle, works best to run the dirt off the car.