Brake Lines!!!

[Apr881]

I just had my passanger side brake hose (rubber hose that connects the steel brake line to the caliper) burst on me while driving. I made it home okay...very slowly. My question is, while trying to remove the old brake hose, i cannot seem to find a flare nut wrench that fits the fitting on the end of the steel line. I bought both metric and standard flare nut wrench sets and none of the six or so wrenches seem to fit. My shitty haynes manual says a flare nut wrench must be used.

Any ideas on what size that fitting is, or any tips on how to get the old hose off??

Thanks.

[Apr881]

well, i no longer need the answer....i originally used some cheap wrenches from a local auto parts store...which suck. I then bought some craftsman tools (used a vice grip) and got the job done. If anyone else finds themself in my situation...a 11mm flare nut wrench will do the job for the brake line to brake hose fitting.

[tenspeed]

I'm suprised that the nut would turn at all, they're usually rusted tight.

[MetalWarrior]

Genuine vice grip pliers are what i use on stubborn bolts and nuts.

[rixGAphx]

When trying to remove an OLD hose, instead of a flare wrench just cut the hose an inch or so from the fitting and slip on a box wrench.

Torches are not recommended in this application. Trust me. :D :D

[Apr881]

thanks for all the tips...i hope to never have to touch those brake hoses again....i also recommend using plenty of PB Penetrating Spray..works like a charm

[rixGAphx]

PB Blaster ROCKS!!

[Matt95GT]

Originally posted by Apr881
thanks for all the tips...i hope to never have to touch those brake hoses again...

You should be fine for awhile now. Both my cars needed new lines (one had slow leak from rot, other collapsed and pad stayed applied :doh: ) around the same time.

[Swingwing]

My "simple" brake shoe job on my son's 95 GA is giong from bad to worse. We had a leaking wheel cylinder on the driver's side so had to replace that. But first had to go buy the proper size star socket to get the cylinder bolts off (size E8, btw). Then needed a flare wrench for the brake line fitting. Still not sure if it's 11mm or 12mm...the driver's side rounded off, but the pass side unscrewed using the 12mm. Unfortunately, the brake line snapped where it meets the fitting. Also, need to remove wheel hub to get cylinder out...need to get some better torx sockets--afraid my old T50 will round off the bolts. So I need to get some brake line, some fittings, and a flaring kit. What size are these fittings? Any suggestions on a flaring kit?

[tenspeed]

You can buy a metal brake line with the ends flared and fittings attached. Use the end of the line that fits the wheel cylinder, cut the other end off and use a connector fitting if you can find solid metal.

[Swingwing]

Thanks! The local Checker store had the brake lines. Now, I have the four hub bolts loosened up, but there's still no room between the backing plate and the hub to remove the cylinder. Do I need to beat on the hub to separate it from the backing plate?

[prplepavmnteetr]

I just got done changing my wheel cylinders. Forget about trying to remove the hub. Take a hammer and a punch to knock the old one out of there and you'll have to do the same for getting the new one in, which fits alot better than the old one because of all the layers of corrosion.

[Swingwing]

Thanks for the advice, but I'm already past the point of no return! I got the left hub off and replaced the cylinder and brake line and got the brakes back together. However, on the right side, I twisted the torx socket and then rounded off the torx bolt. Why did GM use torx bolts there vs. hex bolts? Now I'm trying to drill out the bolts...bought titanium drill bits at Lowe's and started with 3/16" diameter. Got up to 1/4" and the tip broke off. So now all the bolts no longer have any torx pattern left, but they've all been broken loose. Can't go back, having trouble going forward. Have pity on me!

Although this car seems to be one on its own, I found real nut crackers at this site (http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdspec04.html#710). Can I use the 715 on the hub bolts? Please tell me the bolts aren't heat-treated!

How about an impact hammer with a chisel head?

[Swingwing]

Sometimes the simplest solutions are the best! I hit the bolt heads with a hammer and it loosened the connection enough that I was able to get the nuts off. Problem solved.

Another question though. After replacing the front brake pads, the rotor seems to stick out further from the hub than before. So much so that the lug nuts barely grab all the thread on the bolts. I didn't notice this condition before I started.

I compared the front to the rear lug bolts: the fronts are about 1/2" shorter the the rear (with the drums and rotors in place). Is this normal?