tighten parking break

[tido_29]

How do I make my parking break tighter? :( When I purchased the car I would only be able to pick up my parking break only a few inches. It has over 60K miles and numerous break changes. But now I can pull the lever all the way up. Is there a bold or line that I can tighten to make the parking break work better? :cry:

car
2001 Grand Am GT

thanks guys.
Oh and nice to read the rear rotors question about trouble getting them off, helps to know they come off but w/ a little trouble.

Getting new RSM ones soon.

[sunrunner_pei]

Remove the rear rotors, and you will see the parking brake shoes. There is a rotary adjustment on the wheel cylinder. Also, make sure that the shoe linings are in good shape. They should be, unless you pull the parking brake while moving. Anyways, turn the adjuster and put it back together. It's just like adjusting drum brakes. Be sure to get both sides as well.

[sunrunner_pei]

Just as a note, Fausto... My parking brake is a lot tighter since getting the RSM rear rotors. I'd say the drum is sligtly smaller than stock. I know when installing them I couldn't get them over the rear shoes without first turning in the adjuster all the way, and my parking prake grabs approximatly 30% sooner now. :)

[tido_29]

Thanks :) Do you have a pic by any chance??

Well might make a how-to so that I can add it to the section.
and a how-to for the instillation of new rotors too :) Help out other ga owners out there.

Thanks Shawn!!!!

[sunrunner_pei]

Actually, I didn't take any pics of the rear. :( I have some of the front though: http://www.gaownersclub.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=10&page=4

The rear is very easy, maybe even easier than the front. Except for the shoes being too tight, it was a breeze. Installation is almost the exact same as the front...

Jack the car, support on jackstands
Remove the wheels
Remove the caliper slider bolts
Hang caliper up and out of the way
Remove the brake pads (Take note of orientation of the warning tab)
Remove the caliper bracket
Remove the rotor (May take some pounding with a rubber mallet)
Inspect/clean the wheel cylinder/linings
Re-install the new rotor (Adjust linings if necessary)
Re-install caliper bracket
Install new pads
Re-install caliper
Re-install wheel
Lower car
Tourque lug nuts to 100 ft-lbs.
Done!

[tido_29]

thanks buddy :)

[sunrunner_pei]

Anytime! :toast:

[sunrunner_pei]

Just as a point of reference, it took me about 2 hours to install both the front and rear rotors and pads, including the time it took to take pics, clean the hub mating surfaces, and clean/lube the calipers. I work slow. :)

[erimar77]

please explain your clean/lube the calipers process, it's something that mine could probably use. i'll search in the meantime.

[sunrunner_pei]

Nothing too serious, Eric. I give the entire caliper a blast of brake cleaner, and use a soft brush to clean out excess brake dust. I pay particular arrention to tehe brass pad retainer clips, as the pad has to move freely in them. A little brake cleaner followed by some emery or sand paper works wonders for those. Then, I remove the slider pins from the caliper bracket, and clean off all the old grease, paying extra attention to the rubber slider boots. Then re-grease them using di-electric grease. Then I put it all back together, and make sure nothing is binding or sticking.

[erimar77]

what about the actual piston itself, is there anything that needs to be done to keep it moving properly? i'm asking because i need to also readjust my parking brake, i'll do the cleaning/lubing while i''ve got everything taken apart.

[sunrunner_pei]

Not that I can tell, besides spraying it with some cleaner. The piston is pretty well hidden in the caliper itself, I can't see how you'd clean it without removing it.

[unfknreal]

Originally posted by sunrunner_pei
Actually, I didn't take any pics of the rear. :( I have some of the front though: http://www.gaownersclub.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=10&page=4


This is the front passenger side, correct? I thought the slots on the rotors were supposed to sweep forward, yours are sweeping backward... did you mix up left and right or am I wrong on the direction of the slots?

http://www.gaownersclub.com/gallery/albums/2003%20GAGT/rsm_rotors/normal_IMG_1113.JPG

[rixGAphx]

The piston is self-lubricated by the microscopic amount of brake fluid that remains on the cylinder wall as the piston moves in and out.
You can't see this, since it's hidden inside the flexible molded rubber dust boot. Do not remove this boot, since that's the way contaminates can enter and cause the piston to jamb.

Inside the cylinder there is a special rubber seal on the fluid side of the piston to seal fluid in (duh).
That rubber is resistant to brake fluid, water, and nearly everything else on earth, EXCEPT PETROLEUM PRODUCTS!!
NEVER lube the piston bore with anything, not oil, silicone, grease, graphite, spit, etc.

I'm not certain, but I *think* 'Brake Parts Cleaner' is specially formulated as a solvent for cleaning, yet won't harm the special rubber seals in the MC, wheel cylinders, proportioning valves, and flex lines.

Rather than di-electric grease, I prefer moly wheel bearing grease for anything near the axles and brakes, since it's formulated not to 'bake out' under the extreme heat of braking/wheel bearings.
Just my $0.02.

-Rick

[sunrunner_pei]

Rick, di-electric grease is what the GM service manual calls for. I used to use bearing grease with my '99, until I read that. I switched to the di-electric, and I found that it seems to last longer. :shrug: Do you have better results with the bearing grease?

[sunrunner_pei]

Originally posted by unfknreal
This is the front passenger side, correct? I thought the slots on the rotors were supposed to sweep forward, yours are sweeping backward... did you mix up left and right or am I wrong on the direction of the slots?

http://www.gaownersclub.com/gallery/albums/2003%20GAGT/rsm_rotors/normal_IMG_1113.JPG

That is how they (And my Powerslots I had before) were labelled. If you think about it, if they turned the other way, the slots would not vent the gasses away, they'd vent them towards the hub.

I do know what you're saying though. I've seen many race-prepped cars with them the other way. But every 'street' car I've ever seen has them mounted this way.

[unfknreal]

Originally posted by sunrunner_pei
That is how they (And my Powerslots I had before) were labelled. If you think about it, if they turned the other way, the slots would not vent the gasses away, they'd vent them towards the hub.

Hrmm, Ok. You have a point there... I still don't get the labelling on the box though, "left" and "right"... why the hell can't they just say "drivers" and "passengers" so I don't have to guess! I assume for most people "left" = "drivers" but you never know what some random dummy is thinking when he's packaging them :)

Anyways, good to see you got the new rotors installed... and I know I'm off-topic here, but how do you like them so far?

[tido_29]

all very valuable info. :) gotta love gaoc.com

[sunrunner_pei]

Originally posted by unfknreal
Anyways, good to see you got the new rotors installed... and I know I'm off-topic here, but how do you like them so far?

In a word, they're amazing. Can't say if it's the rotors, the pads, or the combination, but the car has never had so much stopping power. It was a night and day transformation. The Powerslot/Performance Friction combo I ran on my '99 doesn't even compare.

[Gimli]

For those who'd like the "official" procedure...

Doc #1

[Gimli]

Doc #2

[sunrunner_pei]

Good stuff, Ben. :thumbup2: