LIM Gasket Question

[sctt]

ok ive gotten to the lower intake i was wondering if you have to pull the pushrods to replace the gasket
also anyone have any problems getting to the bolt on the valve cover closest to the windshield drivers side

[nice96gt]

I haven't done it myself but I'm pretty sure you have to pull them when you change the gasket. I checked my Haynes manual too and it says you have to also. Just make sure you keep them in the proper order/placement, etc.

EDIT: I also assume this is for the 3100 correct?

[sctt]

it is a 3100

[voyager]

you can get away with just loosening the rocker on three of them at a time ( you'll see which ones, 3 in front and 3 in back ), then taking out the pushrods to put the gasket in.

don't get them mixed up!

that bolt you're referring to is the toughest one to get at, but you can get it with an extension. if all else fails, the bolt that the coil pack slide onto ( that's the one in the way, eh? ), you can unscrew. you should have the top motor mount off at this point ( to get to the power steering pump ), so there ought to be enough room back there for a small ratchet and a 3-4" extension.

[sctt]

Thanks for all the replies
I got the bolt loose and the pushrods pulled and in order
got the manifold off and started cleaning the surface with a razor blade VERY CAREFULLY!!!!!!!!!! what a tedious task
My next question is how clean do i need to get the surface does it have to be completely shiny does it need to look new??????
and if anyone thinks of any other things that might come up during reinstall that might help i would appreciate it
Thanks

[voyager]

i scraped off all the gasket/RTV carefully with a razorblade and then took a stiff wire brush to it - then washed it all off with degreaser and let it air dry. i had an easier time of it because i was replacing the heads and manifolds with 3400 parts, so i could clean it all while it was off the car. the cleaner the better.. it doesn't have to be machined and planed or anything that extreme though. just make sure there aren't any traces of the old gasket or sealant.

good idea to run it for a little while, then change the oil after you're done with reinstall, to filter out any little bits of stuff that found there way into the engine.

as for things that might come up.. can't think of anything. just make sure everything goes back where it's supposed to be and you should be fine. don't be freaked if it overheats a little when you're done, might have air trapped in the system that will work it's way out, and the ECM probably will need to relearn the idle.

glad to hear you got the bolt off!! bet you were feeling pretty rotten for a while there! how'd you end up doing it?

[sctt]

Well i just went and bought a craftsman bolt out kit and it took about five minutes to get it out
Ive cleaned all the sealant and gasket off the best i could there is still some discoloration in some spots but it feels pretty smooth i just cant seem to get anymore off with the razor blade
Im going to run some motor flush through it and then change the oil then run it for about 300 miles and change the oil again since coolant got into the oil
Thanks again for all your help

[mikem220153]

Make sure you get a good seal on the front and rear decks of the engine block where the Black RTV sealant meets the left and right lower manifold gaskets. If you don't you will get an oil leak and won't know it until you've got the motor back together. Also get a crows foot adapter the same size as the heads on the angled lower manifold bolts because you probably won't be able to get a torque wrench on 2 of the outer most bolts when you go tourque them down.