nice96gt
07-27-2005, 11:26 PM
CUSTOM COLD AIR INTAKE
1996 GRAND AM (3100 SFI V6)
This may also work for other 3100 from previous years
http://geocities.com/ryangfranklin/images/dscf0169.jpg
Basic Tools needed:
screwdrivers - flathead, phillips
hacksaw or something to cut the pipe
saw or some type of cutting device to enlarge hole
pliers - to bend metal
sockets & wrench
drill & bit
rubber grommets
2-3" intake pipe
3 couplers
7 clamps
I would suggest reading through these instructions more than once before attempting this. Think about what you need to do before cutting, unhooking or removing anything.
This may take you a while, OR It may not. It will just depend on whether your car wants to be stupid on the day you do it... :) It took me about 3-4 hours to do it and get everything the way I wanted.
I purchased my cai kit for $50 off of Ebay. It's made for a 92-96 Prelude and it's the 2 piece piping kit. Anything with a straight piece of pipe with a 90º bend and another small piece with a slight curve will work. But I used the prelude kit and had lots of pipe left over.
The first thing you you should do is disconnect the battery and take it out. Also unbolt and take out the old stock airbox, MAF (the device between the throttle body and the airbox, if you didn't know) and all connections right up to the throttle body. BE CAREFUL when removing the MAF since there are little sensors in it that if you damage you will have to replace (SEE PIC). Also be careful of the IAT sensor that is located in your stock airbox. That is also very fragile and you'll be reusing it so put it in a safe place. You will also be reusing the clamps from your stock airbox so keep them handy. Make sure not to break any vacuum lines while working on this project. I managed to break the airline that runs into the intake just before the TB and it was $15 to replace. Not expensive, just a waste. This may be the time to give the TB a quick cleaning, as you can see mine was a little dirty.
IAT Sensor
http://geocities.com/ryangfranklin/images/dscf0292.jpg
MAF
http://geocities.com/ryangfranklin/images/dscf0294.jpg
Safely jack up the car on the drivers side and remove the wheel. It will be easier in the end if you take the wheel off. Remove the splash guard that runs in the wheel well and underneath.
The intake consists of a long straight pipe with a 90° bend on the end (PIPE "A") and an S-like curved pipe (PIPE "B"). The crossed out sections are the parts that I didn't end up using. The lines marked on the pipes are approximately the places where I made my cuts. You will have to put each piece in place so that you will be able to see where you will have to make your cuts to make it fit the best. Don't cut them until later.
http://geocities.com/ryangfranklin/images/dscf0277.jpg
Because of the way I did my intake, I had to cut a bit of the hole out so that the pipe would sit at the right angle. It's up to you if you want to rig something up so that it will fit better without cutting. If you do it my way, you will have to cut enough of the hole back/off so that the pipe will lay in place so the battery will stay locked in place. It will be APPROX 4 inches or so on each side of the hole towards the back. I set my battery back in and slid pipe "A" in the cut hole. Move the pipe around till it fits in nicely (with the battery in, and with the open 90° curved end pointed out towards the TB). Now you can either hold the filter up to the pipe or put it on the end through the wheel well and push it on as far as you want so you can find out as to where to make your cut. Make sure the filter and pipe are tucked in enough so they won't push out your splash guard too much. (SEE PICS FOR PLACEMENT).
These next few pictures show where I had to cut the hole to enlarge it enough for the pipe to fit tight and still allow the battery to be bolted down.
http://geocities.com/ryangfranklin/images/dscf0279.jpg
http://geocities.com/ryangfranklin/images/dscf0281.jpg
http://geocities.com/ryangfranklin/images/dscf0282.jpg
To cut the second piece (pipe "B"). I would attach the MAF using one of the silicone couplers and put the other silicone couplers on the one side of the MAF. Attach the 3rd coupler to the TB. Make sure that the silicone couplers are pushed on well. You don't want any air leaks!! To measure the cuts for pipe "B" just hold it up from the TB to the MAF and measure it. Make sure you use it at the proper angle since the TB is on an angle or the intake won't fit with the battery in its proper place. Cut your pipe and put it in place, but don't screw in the clamps yet.
You have to drill 2 holes. One for the IAT sensor which is on the factory airbox and one for the vacuum hose that is just past the TB. I attached the vacuum hose by drilling a hole and running it through the silicone coupler and the pipe. The IAT sensor is very important and very fragile, so be careful. A lot of people have had problems with this and get a service engine soon light. I haven't had this problem since I have been careful. To make the sensor fit properly, drill a hole in pipe "B" that is almost EXACTLY the same diameter as the IAT sensor (the small part of the sensor obviously). Put the rubber grommet on and pop in the sensor. Tighten up all of the clamps and reconnect all of the unclipped connections that you disconnected. Make sure the filter clamp is tightened up as well.
Put the splash guard back on and MAKE SURE that the filter won't push the splash guard to the point that it will rub on the tire when turned, I had that problem and had to fix it. I would try to make sure that you get the filter as close to the windshield washer bottle as you can. Put the wheel back on and hook the battery back up. Start the car and go for a drive....YOU WILL LOVE EVERY BIT OF IT!
http://geocities.com/ryangfranklin/images/new1.jpg
http://geocities.com/ryangfranklin/images/new3.jpg
http://geocities.com/ryangfranklin/images/new2.jpg
OTHER INFO: Because the splash guard covers a lot of the bottom, you shouldn't have to worry about puddles. Still try to avoid them if you can. You don't want to suck up any water by accident. Also if you are in an area where you get snow in the winter, I would recommend turning it into a WAI by just removing the pipe going through the hole and attaching the filter to the MAF. That's why the IAT sensor should be attached to the little piece of pipe and not the big one. Also after it is installed it may take a few minutes for the computer to adjust to all of the extra air flow, so don't be surprised if it stalls the first time.
ATTENTION: I HAVE WRITTEN THESE INSTRUCTIONS FOR GUIDANCE ONLY AND AM IN NO WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR THE OUTCOME OF ANY INDIVIDUAL OR THEIR CAR BY ATTEMPTING TO MAKE AND USE THEIR OWN COLD AIR INTAKE CREATED FROM THESE INSTRUCTIONS.
1996 GRAND AM (3100 SFI V6)
This may also work for other 3100 from previous years
http://geocities.com/ryangfranklin/images/dscf0169.jpg
Basic Tools needed:
screwdrivers - flathead, phillips
hacksaw or something to cut the pipe
saw or some type of cutting device to enlarge hole
pliers - to bend metal
sockets & wrench
drill & bit
rubber grommets
2-3" intake pipe
3 couplers
7 clamps
I would suggest reading through these instructions more than once before attempting this. Think about what you need to do before cutting, unhooking or removing anything.
This may take you a while, OR It may not. It will just depend on whether your car wants to be stupid on the day you do it... :) It took me about 3-4 hours to do it and get everything the way I wanted.
I purchased my cai kit for $50 off of Ebay. It's made for a 92-96 Prelude and it's the 2 piece piping kit. Anything with a straight piece of pipe with a 90º bend and another small piece with a slight curve will work. But I used the prelude kit and had lots of pipe left over.
The first thing you you should do is disconnect the battery and take it out. Also unbolt and take out the old stock airbox, MAF (the device between the throttle body and the airbox, if you didn't know) and all connections right up to the throttle body. BE CAREFUL when removing the MAF since there are little sensors in it that if you damage you will have to replace (SEE PIC). Also be careful of the IAT sensor that is located in your stock airbox. That is also very fragile and you'll be reusing it so put it in a safe place. You will also be reusing the clamps from your stock airbox so keep them handy. Make sure not to break any vacuum lines while working on this project. I managed to break the airline that runs into the intake just before the TB and it was $15 to replace. Not expensive, just a waste. This may be the time to give the TB a quick cleaning, as you can see mine was a little dirty.
IAT Sensor
http://geocities.com/ryangfranklin/images/dscf0292.jpg
MAF
http://geocities.com/ryangfranklin/images/dscf0294.jpg
Safely jack up the car on the drivers side and remove the wheel. It will be easier in the end if you take the wheel off. Remove the splash guard that runs in the wheel well and underneath.
The intake consists of a long straight pipe with a 90° bend on the end (PIPE "A") and an S-like curved pipe (PIPE "B"). The crossed out sections are the parts that I didn't end up using. The lines marked on the pipes are approximately the places where I made my cuts. You will have to put each piece in place so that you will be able to see where you will have to make your cuts to make it fit the best. Don't cut them until later.
http://geocities.com/ryangfranklin/images/dscf0277.jpg
Because of the way I did my intake, I had to cut a bit of the hole out so that the pipe would sit at the right angle. It's up to you if you want to rig something up so that it will fit better without cutting. If you do it my way, you will have to cut enough of the hole back/off so that the pipe will lay in place so the battery will stay locked in place. It will be APPROX 4 inches or so on each side of the hole towards the back. I set my battery back in and slid pipe "A" in the cut hole. Move the pipe around till it fits in nicely (with the battery in, and with the open 90° curved end pointed out towards the TB). Now you can either hold the filter up to the pipe or put it on the end through the wheel well and push it on as far as you want so you can find out as to where to make your cut. Make sure the filter and pipe are tucked in enough so they won't push out your splash guard too much. (SEE PICS FOR PLACEMENT).
These next few pictures show where I had to cut the hole to enlarge it enough for the pipe to fit tight and still allow the battery to be bolted down.
http://geocities.com/ryangfranklin/images/dscf0279.jpg
http://geocities.com/ryangfranklin/images/dscf0281.jpg
http://geocities.com/ryangfranklin/images/dscf0282.jpg
To cut the second piece (pipe "B"). I would attach the MAF using one of the silicone couplers and put the other silicone couplers on the one side of the MAF. Attach the 3rd coupler to the TB. Make sure that the silicone couplers are pushed on well. You don't want any air leaks!! To measure the cuts for pipe "B" just hold it up from the TB to the MAF and measure it. Make sure you use it at the proper angle since the TB is on an angle or the intake won't fit with the battery in its proper place. Cut your pipe and put it in place, but don't screw in the clamps yet.
You have to drill 2 holes. One for the IAT sensor which is on the factory airbox and one for the vacuum hose that is just past the TB. I attached the vacuum hose by drilling a hole and running it through the silicone coupler and the pipe. The IAT sensor is very important and very fragile, so be careful. A lot of people have had problems with this and get a service engine soon light. I haven't had this problem since I have been careful. To make the sensor fit properly, drill a hole in pipe "B" that is almost EXACTLY the same diameter as the IAT sensor (the small part of the sensor obviously). Put the rubber grommet on and pop in the sensor. Tighten up all of the clamps and reconnect all of the unclipped connections that you disconnected. Make sure the filter clamp is tightened up as well.
Put the splash guard back on and MAKE SURE that the filter won't push the splash guard to the point that it will rub on the tire when turned, I had that problem and had to fix it. I would try to make sure that you get the filter as close to the windshield washer bottle as you can. Put the wheel back on and hook the battery back up. Start the car and go for a drive....YOU WILL LOVE EVERY BIT OF IT!
http://geocities.com/ryangfranklin/images/new1.jpg
http://geocities.com/ryangfranklin/images/new3.jpg
http://geocities.com/ryangfranklin/images/new2.jpg
OTHER INFO: Because the splash guard covers a lot of the bottom, you shouldn't have to worry about puddles. Still try to avoid them if you can. You don't want to suck up any water by accident. Also if you are in an area where you get snow in the winter, I would recommend turning it into a WAI by just removing the pipe going through the hole and attaching the filter to the MAF. That's why the IAT sensor should be attached to the little piece of pipe and not the big one. Also after it is installed it may take a few minutes for the computer to adjust to all of the extra air flow, so don't be surprised if it stalls the first time.
ATTENTION: I HAVE WRITTEN THESE INSTRUCTIONS FOR GUIDANCE ONLY AND AM IN NO WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR THE OUTCOME OF ANY INDIVIDUAL OR THEIR CAR BY ATTEMPTING TO MAKE AND USE THEIR OWN COLD AIR INTAKE CREATED FROM THESE INSTRUCTIONS.