Battery Jelly

[TheNewLMHDesign]

I just put my sound system back in my car and wired it up to the battery, and I would like to put some "jelly" on the battery mounts to make sure that there is always power flowing to both the line running to the system, and the regular power line.
Anyone have any clue what the name of that jelly is? Sorry if I sound like i'm talking crazy. I just got off a 13 hour day at work and I'm tired as hell.

[tenspeed]

Some people use silicon grease. It seals the lead and prevents corrosion.

Electricians also has several types of grease with powdered zinc in it to make it conductive. It is usually used for assuring a ground path on rigid pipe couplings and copper to aluminum terminations.

[TheNewLMHDesign]

Thank you sir. Just having problems with the connection between the battery, and the bolt, so I want to make sure there is a constant flow of electricity to the posotive wires.

Btw, on the way home my car died yesterday. I was driving around 80mph, and it just flat out died. Lights and all. So I hopped out of the car, and moved the posotive wire to the battery, and it started up again. Now, rumor has it, that the car should be able to run without the battery with just the alternator.

So is this a sign that the alternator is on it's last leg?

[Bjornboy81]

I know the car can run off the battery without the alternator, but I don't think it can do no battery, all alternator :???:

[tenspeed]

Originally posted by Bjornboy81
I know the car can run off the battery without the alternator, but I don't think it can do no battery, all alternator :???:

Let's think about this. If the altenator can run the car and charge the battery, I would guess that it could run the car. I don't know why the car stopped unless there was a momentary loss of voltage.

The grease keeps the metal from corroding because it seals out air. Clean everything up so it shines, put a coat of the grease on the battery terminal and cable and bolt it together. I usually coat the surfaces too. The grease squeezes out.

Make sure that the battery terminal isn't stripped. It a 3/8 thread with a 5/16 head.

[voyager]

you can use petroleum jelly ( vaseline ) to keep corrosion off the battery terminals. there are better, more conductive products out there am sure.

LMH - that's is an indication of a poor connection, not a bad alternator..

[TheNewLMHDesign]

I was thinking poor connection, but she's in there really snug. I guess I will try the jelly first and cleaning first, and then go from there.

Thanks guys.

[Rafael21]

that's weird cause the batter on my car did the same thing. my car uses the side posts, and when i had the battery checked the battery is fine on the top posts but it wont start when i connect it with the side ones.

This doesnt make sense (what i wrote i mean)

[rixGAphx]

The battery cables corrode INSIDE those damned molded rubber boots. They insulate well and keep out MOST water, but they allow enough water in to casues di-electric corrosion between the copper and the lead.

Cut off the rubber, I'll bet you only have a few strands of copper remaining between the cable and the cast lead terminal.

Get a new cable and you'll be fine.

NewLMH: Get the gold-plated cable ends, that's what they are for: Corrosion-proof and high conductivity.

-Rick

[tenspeed]

Originally posted by Rafael21
when i had the battery checked the battery is fine on the top posts but it wont start when i connect it with the side ones.

This doesnt make sense (what i wrote i mean)

The battery could have a open connection inside. I had a motorcycle battery that would read 12VDC until it had a load put on it, then it went to zero. Couldn't even push start it.

If you have a few strands left like Rick was refering to, you would feel heat in the high resistance area.

[Bjornboy81]

Originally posted by tenspeed
Let's think about this. If the altenator can run the car and charge the battery, I would guess that it could run the car.

sorry, I should have explained my thinking...the output of the alternator is an AC sine wave that's rectified by the diode...making it a half wave right?. The battery would then "smooth" it out to pure DC. I wouldn't think the the half wave would be able to supply the ignition system just because of the fact it's not technically DC. You know what I mean?