Dei alarm install questions (door lock and tach)

[skywise]

I'm installing a Dei hornet 2way alarm/remote start unit in my '96 3.1 Ga.
Have a couple of questions about the install...
First couple are about the door locks.
Which way did everyone else hook the two wires from the module to the car's locks? I tied in right at the door lock relay (mounted at the driver's side kick panel) and I thought it was a + activate. (green to unlock, blue to lock) but it seems something isn't quite right since I pop the lock fuse when it tried to activate.
Second, how did everyone deal with the car's habit of unlocking the doors when the ignition is turned off? If I remote start the car and let the timer run out, the doors unlock when the ignition is turned off. Not a great feature when the car's in a parking lot someplace. Is there a wire I can snip to stop it from doing that? (since the alarm system takes care of the door locks on it's own anyway, no need to have the car do it as well)

Last, where did everyone get their tach signal from? At the moment I'm planning on stealing it from the ignition module's unused tach pin. The only issue there is a lack of connector on that pin so I'll have to do some trickery to get my wire on there.

Thanks in advance

Sky

[MantaGreen97]

It is a positive pulse door lock system... LOL it is always funny when you wire something up and poof! goes a fuse and/or you get (what I like to call) "spark energy" somwhere eh? :lol: Seriously I have some hillarious stories of "electrical wiring gone wrong" :lol:

The wires you want, at the relay are Light Blue for Lock and White for Unlock ;)

Do you have factory keyless entry on that car? If you do it is pretty easy to wire driver priority unlocking (first pulse driver door, subsequent pulses all doors). But then again, even if you don't it shouldn't be hard to do driver priority...

As for the unlocking, there are a few ways to deal with this. One is that you can set the DEI to perform ignition controlled unlocking (ignition controlled locking is not required really, so hopefully these are separate features on your alarm). Then remove the DR UNLK fuse (10A red) from the fuse box. Now the alarm will unlock the doors after you turn off the car, instead of the car doing it. Since you've removed the DR UNLK fuse, the car will not unlock when the engine cuts from the RS timeout.

Alternately, you can cut the pink wire going to cavity M in connector C1 of the Convenience Centre/MFA under the dash. Then connect a relay on this wire such that the relay opens this wire ONLY when the RS is active, but is otherwise closed. You can do this by using one of the primary ignition outputs from the RS to accomplish this; however be sure that you are getting a "relay isolated" feed here because otherwise you'll be opening that circuit anytime the ignition is on, even if it is by the key.
This will "fool" the MFA into thinking the car is NOT running while it is running off the remote starter and therefore when the RS cuts, it doesn't respond to that wire going hot and then cold (this is how it determines when to automatically unlock the doors).

[MantaGreen97]

Originally posted by skywise
Last, where did everyone get their tach signal from? At the moment I'm planning on stealing it from the ignition module's unused tach pin. The only issue there is a lack of connector on that pin so I'll have to do some trickery to get my wire on there.


Oops sorry forgot this one... The 3100 doesn't actually have a "true" tach wire. However you can use one of two wires that leads to the PCM to get the same thing, apparently...

In connector C1, cavity 44 you'll have a Purple/White wire. This is the Electronic Spark Timing High Reference Signal.

In connector C1, cavity 53 you'll have a White wire. This is the Electronic Timing Control Signal.

According to my information, either of these wires should work. Though you may want to check with a DMM on AC voltage or whatever to be sure. Also when taking wires from the PCM note that there are two 80-way connectors (all cavities are not used but still a lot of wires) so be sure you have the right wire/cavity before you go splicing or probing.

Personally I just went tach-less and it works fine for me... I'd try out tachless starting first to see if it works well (it should). If it does I'd just forget about the tach wire, on the 3100.

[skywise]

That's how I wired the door locks.
The hornet has Green (-lock, +unlock) and blue (+lock - unlock)
I wired the hornet's green to white and the hornet's blue to light blue.
I'll have to check my wiring again and also check the schmatic to make sure something odd isn't happening.

I'm not sure removing the fuse will work out. When the lock fuse blew, nothing could lock the doors... Not the ignition, nor the door lock switch, nor the keyless entry.

Thanks for the info on the MFA, I'll have to look into that one.

[skywise]

I was avoiding going near the PCM so I didn't have to tear apart that side of the car, as well as way too many wires to mess with.
The tach signal off the ignition module itself seems to work fine other than no pin on the connector but I think I've got that covered.
While I was messing with figuring out this whole mess, I unhooked the connector from the ignition module that connects to the various reference signals. I forgot to put it back on and the module worked just fine without them, very strange.

Sky

[MantaGreen97]

Okay, are you sure the Hornet alarm doesn't have to be programmed or learned for positive door locks before hand?

Also removing the fuse will work for the auto unlocking! That's what the fuse is there for! There are three door lock fuses. DR LK1; DR LK2 and DR UNLK. The last one is only there for one reason--this is to disable the auto door unlock feature if it is not desired. Remove that fuse and the car will never unlock on its own. (It will still lock on its own though.)

[skywise]

Ohhhhhhhhh, ok. I must've missed that fuse.
I'll look closer tomorrow when I get back into it after buying the passkey faker from DEI. (man that was a frustrating time trying to figure out why the remote start was almost working, goes to show one should read the entire manual before having at the job :)

Sky
P.S. I checked the whole install manual and the only time they mention the lock/unlock stuff is in the simple pinout section, not even any details on the various systems out there.

[MantaGreen97]

Originally posted by skywise
While I was messing with figuring out this whole mess, I unhooked the connector from the ignition module that connects to the various reference signals. I forgot to put it back on and the module worked just fine without them, very strange.


That is because on the 3100 if the ICM (Ignition Control Module) loses the 5 volt bypass signal from the PCM, the ICM will switch to "Bypass Mode" where it controls the ignition timing, not the PCM. (When the ICM receives the 5 volts, the PCM controls the timing in "IC mode".)

This should also set a DTC and illuminate the MIL (aka SES aka Check Engine) light because the ICM will ground the IC pulse circuit from the PCM and PCM will set the DTC because it is not commanding Bypass Mode yet the ICM is in Bypass Mode anyway. The car does still run, but it may stall but then restart and run again, albeit still in Bypass Mode (until the problem is corrected).

[MantaGreen97]

Originally posted by skywise
I'll look closer tomorrow when I get back into it after buying the passkey faker from DEI. (man that was a frustrating time trying to figure out why the remote start was almost working, goes to show one should read the entire manual before having at the job :)


LOL I'm thinking this is why you were looking for the Tach wire? Because the car would crank and start but then stall? Yeah you will definitely need to bypass the PassLock to get it to run :lol: Another note: when you cut the two or three wires you need to in order connect the bypass module, you MUST solder/heatshrink these connections to avoid future problems with the PassLock system. You might know this but just making sure since ppl do the bypass with crimps and then are left scratching their heads a year later when they are having PL problems.

Originally posted by skywise
P.S. I checked the whole install manual and the only time they mention the lock/unlock stuff is in the simple pinout section, not even any details on the various systems out there.

What's the model number on your Hornet system?

[skywise]

Solder is the only way to go with wiring, although it takes a hell of alot of heat to solder to the starter/ignition wires.
I can imagine how nasty things could become if the passlock is crimped, what with resistance being the key for the lock.

I've got the Hornet 564T (the one with the 2 way remote)

[skywise]

The alarm is in and working fine, the door lock problem was related to working too long on it and being in a hurry. I had wired the cable up right but had plugged it into the bitwriter port, seems that wasn't the right thing to do. :)
I'm glad the only thing that happened was a blown fuse, could've hurt the alarm module doing that.
Removing the fuse worked just fine for keeping the car from unlocking the door when the remote start timed out.
Thanks for the help Manta!

Sky