Why do front KYB struts still clunk? I should give up.

[AznGA]

Ok, I am sure some of you are familar with the front KYB struts clunking after bumps. I have had this problem since the day I installed it. I have Eibach springs also.

I recently replaced the front strut mounts and mounting plates that go underneath the mounts. I also put a thick washer underneath the strut shaft nut on top. I thought the washer would fix the problem, since the shaft nuts that KYB front struts came with looked thinner than the stock nuts for stock struts. KYB struts and stock struts have differnt threads, so you cannot use stock nuts on the KYB struts.

A month later, clunking is back again. I really do not know what to do at this point. Some people mentioned inserting a hose through the coil, but I dunno if this is a permanent fix. Here is my thinking though. The nut on top of the strut shaft only holds the strut mount in place. That means the mounting plate underneath the strut mount stays in place only when the spring is expanded. So that means when the spring shrinks at bumps, that causes the mounting plate to become loose? Makes sense? I don't know if you would have the clunking issue if you had KYB struts and stock springs since stock springs have longer overal length than Eibach springs.

[DontPassTheFence]

Oh man I hope my GA doesnt clunk over bumps after I get KYBs, it doesnt clunk now! That would irritate me since my front right brake assembly squeaks (Im thinking warped rotor). I dont need more unusual noises coming from the damn car!

[AznGA]

Yours is 97. I think it might be different.

[DontPassTheFence]

Oh haha Im an idiot! I didnt even look at your car info. however, Ive never of the kybs clunking on the 99+ GAs.

[JoeyK]

Did you torque the top mount bolts to spec? (The 3 on top)

[92CamaroRS]

Originally posted by AznGA
Ok, I am sure some of you are familar with the front KYB struts clunking after bumps. I have had this problem since the day I installed it. I have Eibach springs also.

I recently replaced the front strut mounts and mounting plates that go underneath the mounts. I also put a thick washer underneath the strut shaft nut on top. I thought the washer would fix the problem, since the shaft nuts that KYB front struts came with looked thinner than the stock nuts for stock struts. KYB struts and stock struts have differnt threads, so you cannot use stock nuts on the KYB struts.

A month later, clunking is back again. I really do not know what to do at this point. Some people mentioned inserting a hose through the coil, but I dunno if this is a permanent fix. Here is my thinking though. The nut on top of the strut shaft only holds the strut mount in place. That means the mounting plate underneath the strut mount stays in place only when the spring is expanded. So that means when the spring shrinks at bumps, that causes the mounting plate to become loose? Makes sense? I don't know if you would have the clunking issue if you had KYB struts and stock springs since stock springs have longer overal length than Eibach springs.


while my car shares absolutely nothing in common with the GA, my car gives me a clunk going over some bumbs, this started after i installed Eibach Springs and Bilstein Struts and shocks, ive gone though everything to make sure it was done right and torqued down, and ive come to the point where i believe its just part of having performance parts, you can't really expect the best performing parts to have all the comforts and such as stock parts.

[dmbprep69]

Yeah I have Intrax springs and KYB struts and it clunked b4 i ogt them, and after a few months of the kybs its started again... I have a 96.
Peace,
Andrew

[AznGA]

Originally posted by JoeyK
Did you torque the top mount bolts to spec? (The 3 on top)
No, but I don't think those have anything to do with it? The noise is coming from the strut mount and the plate.

[Pte Socks]

I know what your talking about yun, though my problem is during tight corners like in a parking lot. I have my strut plate move on me as well and now, because of that, the plate has been cut badly by my eibachs. Sooner or later, I believe they just get worn through. It sucks, but what can you do, Im personally gonna try the top mount bolts and tightening them more. Perhaps that will help

[AznGA]

Originally posted by Pte Socks
I know what your talking about yun, though my problem is during tight corners like in a parking lot. I have my strut plate move on me as well and now, because of that, the plate has been cut badly by my eibachs. Sooner or later, I believe they just get worn through. It sucks, but what can you do, Im personally gonna try the top mount bolts and tightening them more. Perhaps that will help
What kinda struts do you have?
Don't overtighten the top mount bolts. The torque spec on those is very low.

[RickHigginsHtbr]

Yun, I had the same problem too.... after a month, I redid my front, and the drivers side stopped clunking. I think the spring has to be set in exactly right, no matter what struts you use.

[AznGA]

Originally posted by RickHigginsHtbr
Yun, I had the same problem too.... after a month, I redid my front, and the drivers side stopped clunking. I think the spring has to be set in exactly right, no matter what struts you use.
Why does your pass side still clunk then?
I am almost positive my springs are set right.

[Pte Socks]

I had a shop do my installs, as for struts im running KYB GR-2's

[lifeliberty]

I was told the front clunking is because the A-arm bushing is worn out and needs replaced.

[AznGA]

Hmm, the clunking started as soon as I started driving it after installation. I highly doubt it's the bushings. Plus there are a lot of 99+ lowered GA owners with this problem. I am probably gonna go back to stock springs and keep the KYB struts on.

[RocketMan]

I've got factory struts (03 GA GT) and ever since i bought the car with virtually no km on it (17 thou) its been clunking...I had it serviced 3 times and though it got better its still there...They basically torqued everything real tight and replaced the stabalizer bar bushings with new ones. Like i said the sound is quieter but still comes every now and again. Truly i don't know what the hell causes it but i think its simply a design tolerance issue with one or more of the front suspension mating components...could be cv joints could be control arms could be struts, sway bar, who knows. They even tightened the trani and engine mounts trying to get rid of the sound. If you ever find out what causes it let me know

I hear it when i make turns or when i go straight over bumpy surfaces and its like a single muffled clunk coming from the wheel well area.

[RickHigginsHtbr]

Originally posted by AznGA
Why does your pass side still clunk then?
I am almost positive my springs are set right.

Try it again.... I did my front the first time with no air tools by myself in my driveway... Also, with no spring compressors :) That was real fun... Took it over to Mike's (ga5speed02) house, did it with compressors and air tools, and the drivers side stopped. What I did was lined up the eibach's in the exact position that my stock ones sat in and bolted it down. Now that I think about it, I may have been off when it comes to the pass side. Maybe I'll rip it all apart this spring again to try to fix the pass side.

[Trevlya006]

ok well i have service info, from a dealer that i work at...
on an 99 to 03, and i know there is another bullitin which my car has about the strut mounts...
Info - Front Suspension Clunk/Rattle Noise Diagnosis #01-03-08-002B - (Apr 10, 2003)
Front Suspension Clunk/Rattle Noise Diagnosis
1998-2003 Chevrolet Malibu (Built After 10/97)

1998-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass

1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero

1999-2003 Pontiac Grand Am

This bulletin is being revised to correct the tightening specification for the lower control arm front bolts. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Numbers 01-03-08-002A and 00-03-08-003 (Section 03 - Suspension).

Important: The following information has also been updated within SI. If you are using a paper version of the Service Manual, please make a reference to this bulletin on the affected page.


A number of front suspension lower control arms have been returned to the Warranty Parts Center (WPC). Input regarding these parts indicates replacement corrected front suspension related clunk/rattle type noise concerns. Analysis of these returned components indicates that they were manufactured to design intent and should have performed satisfactorily in the vehicle.

It is recommended that when a front lower control arm is suspected to be the cause of a front suspension noise concern, the technician perform the following fastener tightening procedure prior to control arm replacement.

Position the vehicle on a level surface at curb height (supported by the tires).
Loosen the four lower control arm to front suspension crossmember attaching bolts.

Tighten

• Tighten the two lower control arm to suspension crossmember front attaching bolts to 60 N·m (45 lb ft) plus 180° rotation.

• Tighten the two lower control arm to suspension crossmember rear attaching bolts to 100 N·m (74 lb ft) plus 180° rotation.

Road test vehicle to determine if the noise condition has been corrected.
Important: If the control arm bushings require replacement, they are available separately and may be serviced without replacing the control arm.


and heres another one.

Document ID# 773750
2001 Pontiac Grand Am


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Clunk, Rattle Noise from Front of Vehicle (Replace Brake Pedal Assembly) #01-05-22-001 - (Jan 16, 2001)
Clunk, Rattle Noise from Front of Vehicle (Replace Brake Pedal Assembly)
1997-2001 Chevrolet Malibu

1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass

1999-2001 Oldsmobile Alero

1999-2001 Pontiac Grand Am

with Automatic Transmission

Built Prior to the following VIN Breakpoints:

Model
VIN Breakpoint
Plant

Chevrolet Malibu
1M554918
Lansing

16180968
Oklahoma

Oldsmobile Alero/Pontiac Grand Am
1C158122
Lansing (C)

1M555395
Lansing (M)


Condition
Some customers may comment on a rattle or clunk type noise coming from the underbody or front suspension.

Cause
The brake pedal pivot pin bushing may cause this condition.

Correction
Diagnose condition prior to replacing the brake pedal assembly by putting light side pressure on the brake pedal with your foot and applying the brakes. If the noise is no longer present, replace the existing brake pedal assembly with a new assembly, P/N 22672398. If the noise is still present, re-evaluate the condition using diagnostic information in the appropriate Service Manual. Follow the service procedure listed below to replace the brake pedal assembly.

Remove left sound insulator panel.



Depress the accelerator control cable (1) tangs from the pedal lever assembly.
Remove the accelerator control cable from the pedal lever assembly.



Disconnect the brake pedal pushrod (1) from the brake pedal (2).



Disconnect the electrical connector from the stop lamp switch.
Remove the stop lamp switch (5) from the brake pedal bracket by grasping the switch and turning it 90 degrees counter clockwise while pulling toward the rear of the vehicle.
Disconnect the electrical connector from the cruise release switch.
Remove the cruise release switch (3) from the brake pedal bracket by grasping the switch and turning it 90 degrees counter clockwise while pulling toward the rear of the vehicle.
Disconnect the electrical harness from the brake pedal bracket.



Remove the upper (1) and the lower (2) mounting nuts from the brake pedal assembly.
Remove the brake pedal assembly.
Install the brake pedal assembly into position.
Install the upper and the lower mounting nuts to the brake pedal assembly.

Tighten
Tighten the mounting nuts to 27 N·m (20 lb ft).

Connect the brake pedal pushrod to the brake pedal.
Connect the electrical harness to the brake pedal bracket.
Insert the stop lamp switch and cruise release switch into their containers until the switch body is seated on the retainer.
Connect the electrical connectors to the stop lamp switch and cruise release switch.
Important: Adjust the stop lamp switch and cruise release switch at the same time. The adjustment procedures for the switches are identical.






Adjust the stop lamp switch and cruise release switch.
- Pull the brake pedal (4) upward against the internal pedal stop.

- Turn the switch 90 degrees clockwise in order to lock the switch into position.

Install the accelerator control cable to the pedal lever assembly. Ensure the tangs are fully expanded and seated.
Slip the accelerator control cable through the slot in the rod of the accelerator pedal and install the retainer in the rod. Ensure the retainer is seated.
Check for proper operation of stop lamps and cruise control.
Install the left sound insulator panel.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty

22672398 (Automatic Transmission)
Pedal Assembly - Brake
1


Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

H2640
Pedal and/or Bushing, Brake - Replace
Use publishedlabor operation time




GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION


© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Document ID# 773750
2001 Pontiac Grand Am


and some may compare it to a squeak noise, like mine is at times..
big problem on the cavy's also..

Document ID# 1656122
2001 Pontiac Grand Am


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Squeak Noise In Front End On Turns (Replace Strut Spring Seat) #04-03-08-015B - (May 9, 2005)
Squeak Noise In Front End On Turns (Replace Strut Spring Seat)
1999-2004 Chevrolet Cavalier

2000-2003 Chevrolet Malibu

2004-2005 Chevrolet Classic

2000-2004 Oldsmobile Alero

2000-2005 Pontiac Grand Am

1999-2004 Pontiac Sunfire

Before performing the procedure in this bulletin, technicians should refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 02-03-08-008A if the vehicle has a rattle/creak or popping noise in the front end.

This bulletin is being revised to add the above Attention statement referencing Corporate Bulletin Number 02-03-08-008A. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-03-08-015A (Section 03 - Suspension).

Condition
Some customers may comment that the front end of the vehicle has a squeaking noise on left or right turns.

Cause
This condition may be caused by metal to metal contact between the strut mount and the spring seat.

Correction
Replace the strut spring seat, P/N 89047655. This new seat includes a deflector ring and will eliminate the contact between the strut mount and the spring seat. Refer to Strut, Strut Component And Or Spring Replacement.

The documents below are for Chevrolet Cavalier and Pontiac Sunfire.

• 1999 Document ID #173282.

• 2000 Document ID #529476.

• 2001 Document ID #635853.

• 2002-2003 Document ID #630647.

• 2004 Document ID #1173083.

The document below is for the Chevrolet Classic.

2004-2005 Document ID #1174192

The documents below are for the Chevrolet Malibu.

• 2000 Document ID #528929.

• 2001-2005 Document ID #640868.

The documents below are for the Oldsmobile Alero and Pontiac Grand Am.

• 2000 Document ID #526124.

• 2001-2003 Document ID #635853.

• 2004 Document ID #1173889.

• 2005 (Grand Am only) Document ID #1173889.

Parts Information
Part Number
Description

88964336
Seat, Front Spring (N Car)

89047655
Seat, Front Spring (J Car)


Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

E3901
Seat And/Or Insulator, Front Spring (Upper And/Or Lower) - Left -- Replace
Use Published Labor Time

E3900
Seat And/Or Insulator, Front Spring (Upper And/Or Lower) - Right -- Replace

E3907
Seat And/Or Insulator, Front Spring (Upper And/Or Lower) - Both -- Replace




GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION


© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Document ID# 1656122
2001 Pontiac Grand Am

and this one about a squak.

Squawk Noise From Front and/or Rear Suspension (Lubricate Stabilizer Bushings) #01-03-08-003A - (Feb 5, 2002)
Squawk Noise from Front and/or Rear Suspension (Lubricate Stabilizer Bushings)
1997-2002 Chevrolet Malibu

1997-1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass

1999-2002 Oldsmobile Alero

1999-2002 Pontiac Grand Am

This bulletin is being revised to include additional graphics and torque specifications. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-03-08-003 (Suspension).

Condition
Some customers may comment on a squawk noise from the front and/or rear suspension while driving.

Cause
The noise may be due to a slip/stick condition between the front and/or rear stabilizer bushings.

Correction
Follow the service procedure below and lubricate the front and/or rear stabilizer bushings with Special Lubricant High Temperature, P/N 12345879 (in Canada, use P/N 10953511).


Service Procedure for Front Suspension


Raise and support the vehicle allowing the front suspension to hang free. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle (SI2000 Document ID # 632491) in the General Information sub-section of the Service Manual.
Remove the stabilizer shaft links. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement (SI2000 Document ID # 635842) in the Front Suspension sub-section of the Service Manual.
Support the rear of the crossmember with an adjustable jack stand.
Remove the rear bolts from the crossmember.
Remove the lower control arm rear bolts.
Lower the rear of the crossmember with the adjustable jack stand.
Remove the power steering line bracket from the suspension crossmember on the right side of the vehicle.



Remove the bolts (1) from the insulator brackets (2) attaching the stabilizer shaft (3) to the crossmember (4).
Remove the stabilizer shaft insulators and lubricate the entire insulator with Special Lubricant, P/N 12345879 (in Canada, use P/N 10953511).
Install the lubricated insulators back onto the stabilizer shaft.
Install the insulator brackets (2) and the bolts (1) to the stabilizer shaft (3).

Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 69 N·m(51 lb ft).

Install the power steering line bracket from the suspension crossmember on the right side of the vehicle.
Raise the rear of the crossmember with the adjustable jack stand.
Important: Cross member nuts (1) and (6) are captured nuts.






Install the rear lower control arm bolts (3) through the crossmember.

Tighten
Tighten the rear lower control arm bolts (3) to 245 Nm (180 lb ft).





Install the rear crossmember bolts (2).

Tighten
Tighten the rear cross member bolts (2) to 70 Nm (52 lb ft).

Lower the vehicle and road test.

Service Procedure for Rear Suspension.


Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle (SI2000 Document ID # 632491) in the General Information sub-section of the Service Manual.



Remove the stabilizer shaft insulator brackets (5) and the nuts (6) from the stabilizer shaft (2).
Remove the stabilizer shaft insulators and lubricate the entire insulator with Special Lubricant, P/N 12345879 (in Canada, use P/N 10953511).
Install the lubricated insulators back onto the stabilizer shaft.
Install the stabilizer shaft insulator brackets (5) to the stabilizer shaft (2) and the nuts (6).

Tighten
Tighten the stabilizer shaft insulator bracket nuts to 53 N·m(39 lb ft).

Lower the vehicle and road test.

[Trevlya006]

heres all the torque specs to..

Fastener Tightening Specifications
Application
Specification

Metric
English

Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle Nut
55 N·m
41 lb ft

Control Arm to Frame Bolts, Front Bushing

First Pass
60 N·m
45 lb ft

Final Pass
+180°

Control Arm to Frame Bolts, Rear Vertical Bushing

First Pass
100 N·m
74 lb ft

Final Pass
+180°

Hub and Bearing to Steering Knuckle Bolts
95 N·m
70 lb ft

Stabilizer Shaft Clamp
66 N·m
49 lb ft

Stabilizer Shaft Link Nuts
17 N·m
13 lb ft

Strut Assembly to Body Bolt
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Strut Assembly to Body Nuts
25 N·m
18 lb ft

Strut Nut to Strut Rod
75 N·m
55 lb ft

Strut to Steering Knuckle Nuts
180 N·m
133 lb ft

Suspension Crossmember Front Bolts
245 N·m
180 lb ft

Suspension Crossmember to Body Rear Bolts
70 N·m
52 lb ft

Transmission Mount Bolt
120 N·m
89 lb ft

[Trevlya006]

sorry for a 3rd post, but did you get an alignment after you lowered it? because due to the fact that you lowered the front and rear of the car, that changes the z trim height, which affects your caster on the wheel.

caster for all who dont know:


http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a321/wowoall/calander/141954.gif
Caster is the tilting of the uppermost point of the steering axis either forward or backward, when viewed from the side of the vehicle. A backward tilt is positive (+) and a forward tilt is negative (-). Caster influences directional control of the steering but does not affect the tire wear . Caster is affected by the vehicle height, therefore it is important to keep the body at its designed height. Overloading the vehicle or a weak or sagging rear spring will affect caster. When the rear of the vehicle is lower than its designated trim height, the front suspension moves to a more positive caster. If the rear of the vehicle is higher than its designated trim height, the front suspension moves to a less positive caster.

With too little positive caster, steering may be touchy at high speed and wheel returnability may be diminished when coming out of a turn. If one wheel has more positive caster than the other, that wheel will pull toward the center of the vehicle. This condition will cause the vehicle to pull or lead to the side with the least amount of positive caster.
so by not getting it aligned, and lowering the car, your car actually sits at more of a degree to the rear than striaghter over the strut, taking tension off the strut which causes alot of the noise that people get in the struts.. IE the clunk and squeaks.

now with all the N, and J's that i see, when people have botched with the suspension everyone of them gets the clunk. so my guess is that its due to the caster of the vehicle...

thats why they tell us not to lower cars, but oh well.. i like it when i get out of my car and the roof isn't to the side view mirror on the chevy 2500's

[AznGA]

Wow, great info. Thanks a lot.

[Trevlya006]

that the benefit of working at a dealer!
not to mention the employee prices on parts!
cost +10%!!!

[AznGA]

If I go back to stock springs, do you think clunking can still happen? Clunking started as soon as I put Eibach's on.

[Trevlya006]

possibly.. is it really that bad? i know mine clunk to.. i have intrax on mine.. and at first it was a coil bind because i didn't have them on correctly, but now its just over really large sudden drops IE potholes.. besides that they just make a squeaking noise.. drives me crazy!

i would say if you like how it is, just turn up the volume on the sterio! thats what i do to overcome the squeak..

[AznGA]

My front strut clunking is pretty bad. It's not the noise that I am concerned about. I was surprised when I took my front strut assemblies apart after about 11 monthes of clunking. The strut mounts and the bearing plates underneath were completely destroyed. You don't want to drive like that for a long time because when the strut mounts go bad, the strut piston rod can poke through it, causing major damage.

[replica9000]

My car used to clunk and rattle like that, I have KYB-GR2s and the Eibach Pro springs. The colder it got the worse the noise was. I replaced my front strut mounts with Monroe strut mounts and the noise went away, and never came back.

[AznGA]

Originally posted by replica9000
My car used to clunk and rattle like that, I have KYB-GR2s and the Eibach Pro springs. The colder it got the worse the noise was. I replaced my front strut mounts with Monroe strut mounts and the noise went away, and never came back.
Really? How are Monroe mounts different than stock ones?

I was gonna try KYB mounts, but people don't say good things about them.

[DontPassTheFence]

Ive got stock ones about to go in but I didnt even know Monroe made them!!! shoulda got those... :doh:

[Foxy]

I have no idea if this is even remotely on the same track as the problem you guys have, but STis suffer from a rear suspension clunk. Mine does it quite a bit; it's something that is disconcerting at first, but now I'm used to it.

The problem on my car is stiction - the strut body doesn't move smoothly over the shaft. It appears that people who don't drive the heck out of their STis get the clunk, and those who do drive on a track don't get the clunk; it appears that there's something to do with heating up the strut to make it lubricate itself properly.

Some people have used, as a band-aid fix, silicon spray or white lithium grease on the strut shaft. DISCLAIMER - adding lubricants may attract dirt and dust, which will just grind away at parts - DISCLAIMER. Most people say that a light application every few weeks keeps the clunk away.

I'm too lazy and the clunk doesn't bother me, so I haven't tried it, so.. I dunno. That's my two cents. I'm bored at work :)

As far as springs and alignment, yes, if you do springs, get an alignment!

[laclu12]

I'm getting a clunking sound as well when I drive over a bumpy, uneven road surface. Interestingly, my suspension is bone stock, so apparently it's not just a problem for lowered GAs.

I'd love to figure out what the problem is. If I knew it was just worn struts, I'd replace them but I'm not convinced of that yet. Hearing about replacing the struts mounts with Monroe units is getting me thinking.

[Trevlya006]

oh no, its a problem for every N and J body car!! even the W body's - monte carlo, impala, grand prix, bonnie..
its just the design of the parts.. i know on the cavy's there was a bullitin out on the noise, and same with other cars...

i actually found out that if you check www.rockauto.com they sell moog upper strut mounts that come with the spring isolator and the bearing plate for around 100 each!
for moog parts, thats not a bad deal to me..

i have already replaced my mounts once while the car was lowered.. i replaced them under warranty!! its because i work at chevy, so my manager let me do it, but for all of you who have a lowered car and the clunk, dont take it to the dealer, they will tell the service writer right away that the car has aftermarket parts and that its not covered under the warranty.. then you are stuck with the 400 + bill haha!

[RickHigginsHtbr]

Originally posted by Trevlya006
oh no, its a problem for every N and J body car!! even the W body's - monte carlo, impala, grand prix, bonnie..
its just the design of the parts.. i know on the cavy's there was a bullitin out on the noise, and same with other cars...

i actually found out that if you check www.rockauto.com they sell moog upper strut mounts that come with the spring isolator and the bearing plate for around 100 each!
for moog parts, thats not a bad deal to me..

i have already replaced my mounts once while the car was lowered.. i replaced them under warranty!! its because i work at chevy, so my manager let me do it, but for all of you who have a lowered car and the clunk, dont take it to the dealer, they will tell the service writer right away that the car has aftermarket parts and that its not covered under the warranty.. then you are stuck with the 400 + bill haha!


Off topic, but thats the exact reason why I love my dealership. They've resurfaced my rotors with Raybesto's Pads on it for free, they've givin me GM Ventshades when they scratched up my Auto Ventshades. They've given me a free set of AC Knobs the first time I messed up clearing them. Thy've done a bunch of other stuff for me that they probably shouldnt of for free too.

back on topic.... My noise might be comming from the same problem the STi's have. I did my front by myself with no power tools, and my front passenger side I think I nicked the shaft. And that's the only one thats giving me any noise problems.

[laclu12]

Just took my car to a suspension place about the rattling/clunking sound coming from the front end. I rode along with the tech on the road test and he said the rattling sound (which he noticed as well) was my sway-bar end links and sway-bar bushings. He told me it wasn't a big deal and, if I could live with the noise, to wait until the roads start getting repaired before replacing the end links and bushings.

Just thought I'd share, in case it's helpful to anyone.

[Hodge]

shit i just turn up the music now and let the subs loosen all the bolts in my car.