Hood Scoop Mounting?

[GrandAmSSE]

I bought a fiber glass hood scoop but it comes with no hardware so I guess they want you to glue it down somehow. How should I attach it?

[firefightincwbo]

it should have duoble sided tape on the bottom

[Matt95GT]

Some scoops are also meant to be fiberglassed into the factory hood then bondo, sand and paint.

[Big Joe]

^ listen to matt he's a smart kid............

[Sweet98GA]

step one: Open the box that they came in, and put them back in
step two: close box up, tape it up, label it with the address that it came from
step three: go to the post office/call UPS and send that shit back
step four: call the place you got it from, tell them you are returning it and get your money back
step five: save your money and buy a real hood with a scoop on it

you have a 95 so your options (that i'm aware of) are the AED hood, AAS makes a scoop'd hood

HOWEVER, if you REALLY wanna keep them you can do it two ways... if you plan on making them functional, look up the user GreenGrandAm as he put a scoop on his hood and made it functional, or do what matt said... glass in, smooth out, repaint... hope the glass/bondo job you did doesn't crack

[Brandon]

Originally posted by Sweet98AEDGA
step one: Open the box that they came in, and put them back in
step two: close box up, tape it up, label it with the address that it came from
step three: go to the post office/call UPS and send that shit back
step four: call the place you got it from, tell them you are returning it and get your money back
step five: save your money and buy a real hood with a scoop on it



unless you fiberglass it in, and make it look good... i wouldnt. and ive seen some that have been fiberglassed in and werent even center... looked like trash

[Sweet98GA]

well the problem with glassing and or bondoing is that at some point, its going to crack.... thats just the way it is... body work (especially bondo) shrinks over time...

[JoeyK]

Originally posted by Sweet98AEDGA
well the problem with glassing and or bondoing is that at some point, its going to crack.... thats just the way it is... body work (especially bondo) shrinks over time...


Bondo (plastic filler) does not shrink. I cannot think of any autobody repair material that shrinks once cured. If there were a product that "shrinks over time" they'd be out of business in a year.
The real reason a 'glass scoop job will crack is because metal & fiberglass expands & contracts at different rates. In more stable climates you may get away without cracks for some time if you keep it away from direct sunlight as much as possible (Don't park your car in the drive if you live in Texas, put it in the garage) People in northern climates will most likely see cracks appear within the second year. Winter has the worst effect on it because your going from an ice cold hood to a relatively warm hood once the engine warms up.

[92CamaroRS]

Originally posted by JoeyK
Bondo (plastic filler) does not shrink. I cannot think of any autobody repair material that shrinks once cured. If there were a product that "shrinks over time" they'd be out of business in a year.
The real reason a 'glass scoop job will crack is because metal & fiberglass expands & contracts at different rates. In more stable climates you may get away without cracks for some time if you keep it away from direct sunlight as much as possible (Don't park your car in the drive if you live in Texas, put it in the garage) People in northern climates will most likely see cracks appear within the second year. Winter has the worst effect on it because your going from an ice cold hood to a relatively warm hood once the engine warms up.

that and the slamming of the hood will not help the body filler.

[JoeyK]

Good call. Forgot that one. Yes, I let my hood down easy & push it shut .:)

[Dargasonus]

i like when the 'cool kids' put scoops on their car with tape...no bondo or anything. bet thats good for about 10 ponys. =D

[JoeyK]

Sometimes when it's the right scoop(s) for the car and the right placement even the tape on ones don't look too bad. There were alot of factory scoops on the 60's/70's & 80's that were bolt on.
As a side note, Bondo, or any plastic filler is generally bad news on a hood. Atleast for molding it is.

[PontiacGT]

Originally posted by 92CamaroRS
that and the slamming of the hood will not help the body filler.


That, and not to mention the hoods are a bit flimsy and flex some, and I doubt the heat coming off the engine helps any either.

[92CamaroRS]

Originally posted by JoeyK
Sometimes when it's the right scoop(s) for the car and the right placement even the tape on ones don't look too bad. There were alot of factory scoops on the 60's/70's & 80's that were bolt on.
As a side note, Bondo, or any plastic filler is generally bad news on a hood. Atleast for molding it is.

ditto, if your gonna do that, fiberglass it in!

[JoeyK]

Originally posted by 92CamaroRS
ditto, if your gonna do that, fiberglass it in!

The best way is to use a 2 part epoxy such as panel bond, duramix, chemweld, etc.:)

[92CamaroRS]

Originally posted by JoeyK
The best way is to use a 2 part epoxy such as panel bond, duramix, chemweld, etc.:)

To hold it on, yes, but to smooth out the lines, id use fiberglass mat.

[JoeyK]

There's 2 part epoxy formulations that are designed as fillers & will hold out alot better than fiberglass. I'd definately suggest that route for a hood.

[92CamaroRS]

Originally posted by JoeyK
There's 2 part epoxy formulations that are designed as fillers & will hold out alot better than fiberglass. I'd definately suggest that route for a hood.

That will fill to the extent needed to mould in them stick on hood scoups? if so my teachers need to show us more of the epoxy's! lol. im sure you know what your talking about, im still confused when it comes to alot of it.

[DakkonBlack]

hoods generally are not the best candidate for any large amounts of fillers, But if you epoxy the underside where the suports are and then fiberglass it you will have a descent chance. also look into Flexible Filler this is stuff we used on bumper cover repair. it takes vibration better.
(always remember to sand off all paint/primer before adding fiberglass and fillers. only glaze can succesfully stick to primer, and only as a pin hole filler)

also what is not a real good idea about epoxy on the top side, epoxy does not flex very much. and a line of epoxy over time will cause the rest of the hood to dent around it from open and close of the hood, plus after epoxy hardens it is like steel, have you ever tried to sand and form steel to look good. When doing it right there is often no Quick way, especially if you seek good quality.

[JoeyK]

Where'd you get this from? Epoxy, comes in ranges from extremely flexible to very rigid. You just have to choose the right epoxy for the applixation. Fiberglass is rigid period. NOT good for a hood for any use. Sure, that's all the had back in the early days but now usig fiberglass on a hood is just insuring you'll be doing it again soon.
Epoxy does not even come close to "hardening like steel"

[DakkonBlack]

Originally posted by JoeyK
...early days but now usig fiberglass on a hood is just insuring you'll be doing it again soon.
Epoxy does not even come close to "hardening like steel" [/B]
first... fiberglass flexes very well, not like rubber but enough for a hood, I have done 3 complete custome hoods using fiberglass as a top side fabrication and overall bonding process for trick hoods. never have i had one come back and they are going on 3 years old for the oldest of them. (3 years of wisconsin weather will bring out any shity bodywork)
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Ok so if You want to use a hybrid epoxy on you hood, go for it but save you money and stick with double sided you will get the same result,If you want a seamless look, getting paint to stick to epoxy anything is very difacult, you would still have to put a filler over that and prime and paint.

[JoeyK]

OK, think what you want. Your later statement shows you know very little. Almost everything you've stated is exact oposite from fact. I've been in the business about as long as you have been alive but I'm not gonna argue. That's why I don't come in this section much anymore. People email me all the time for advice but whenever I chime in here someone who doesn't even hold an ase cert. knows better. - L8R

[SikMindz]

Owned. You mean the neon green paint didn't give him away initially Joey?

I cosign what Sweet said. Don't even bother if you're going to just stick them on.

[DakkonBlack]

what do you mean "don't come in this section anymore.." I just moved to GB and a friend told me about this site so i signed up a week and a half ago. Sorry i have a life and do not live in the forem. Unlike some luck 'tools.' I have to pay for my mods.
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and what do you mean oposite. I restated the same thing i started. how about you research a little on epoxy types and get back to me, then when you can a bendable epoxy that will blend and bend like he's looking for get back to me.
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besides isn't this topic about how to fix-up his scoop, besides I only give advice on the right way not the half-assed way. If you want id to look good do it right.

[JoeyK]

EDIT; Ah, ya know what, aint worth arguing with you. I've said it before & I'll say it again, ignorance IS bliss.
... I'll put my hood & bodywork up against yours anyday.

[DakkonBlack]

Originally posted by JoeyK
... That's why I don't come in this section much anymore...
First ***sorry misunderstood you, I thought you meant that's why 'I'(as in me dakkon)... dont come around this.....
I misread a word.
But I never told you how to do your job, rather correcting you terms. The tubes of 3M seam sealer and two part sealers you use..come on he is not going to buy one of those they are around $30and up a tube, wholesale, and that stuff is not all epoxy. (one topic at a time) tell me im wrong...My expirience with cars was not spent in the offic, it wus under the cars, in the cars with tools and hard work. So i am not without expirience and plenty knowledge. Also knowledge on how to research if someone tells me im wrong, and i did that...

[92CamaroRS]

Originally posted by DakkonBlack
First ***sorry misunderstood you, I thought you meant that's why 'I'(as in me dakkon)... dont come around this.....
I misread a word.
But I never told you how to do your job, rather correcting you terms. The tubes of 3M seam sealer and two part sealers you use..come on he is not going to buy one of those they are around $30and up a tube, wholesale, and that stuff is not all epoxy. (one topic at a time) tell me im wrong...My expirience with cars was not spent in the offic, it wus under the cars, in the cars with tools and hard work. So i am not without expirience and plenty knowledge. Also knowledge on how to research if someone tells me im wrong, and i did that...

The proper way of doing something is the proper way of doing something, no matter the price. $30 to do the job right, or $10 to do it cheap and half ass, i think ill spend the extra $20.

BTW, Joey isnt an office person.;)

[DakkonBlack]

wait...if it looks like two sided tape mut is epoxy...how is that right it still looks like wal-mart clearence stick on hood scoops, even if you spend the cash to make it 'stick forever'

tell me this one thing...What is the PROPER AND RIGHT WAY TO DO IT

[JoeyK]

To explain it in a nutshell I think- *think*-you are assuming that 2 part epoxy is only an adhesive product(s). There are many different formulations from many different companies; Kent, Dupont, 3M... (I could post quite a list) Glue them down with a plastic to metal specific epoxy,(This can also get confusing, there are formulations for metal to metal, plastic to plastic, plastic to smc & the list goes on...) then use an eopxy formulated for filling to mold & there's even epoxy putties,( kinda like mixing plastic filler -ie; Bondo, as they are 2 part) to fill in your pin holes. Then when you go through all the motions to get to priming just hit it with a good high build primer & sand some more then if it'a ready to roll seal it & shoot it & yes I HIGHLY recommend SATA:) I have several Sata Jet 2000'smyself with various tip & needle combo's.
You can use fiberglass but with newer technology, if you're going to keep the car & you want it to last as long as possible without to many problems epoxies are the way to go.

[92CamaroRS]

Originally posted by JoeyK
To explain it in a nutshell I think- *think*-you are assuming that 2 part epoxy is only an adhesive product(s). There are many different formulations from many different companies; Kent, Dupont, 3M... (I could post quite a list) Glue them down with a plastic to metal specific epoxy,(This can also get confusing, there are formulations for metal to metal, plastic to plastic, plastic to smc & the list goes on...) then use an eopxy formulated for filling to mold & there's even epoxy putties,( kinda like using plastic filler -ie; Bondo) to fill in your pin holes. Then when you go through all the motions to get to priming just hit it with a good high build primer & sand some more then if it'a ready to roll seal it & shoot it & yes I HIGHLY recommend SATA:) I have several Sata Jet 2000'smyself with various tip & needle combo's.
You can use fiberglass but with neweer technology, if you're going to keep the car & you want it to last as long as possible without to many problems epoxies are the way to go.

I agree with that completely except for the SATA part, i love my Iwata.:lol:

[JoeyK]

Originally posted by 92CamaroRS
I agree with that completely except for the SATA part, i love my Iwata.:lol:
Iwata's good too. You just grow into what's comfortable. It almost can be compared to Chevy & Ford guys arguing!:lol: I still say those Sagola's just might take over some day if they can get better dealer support & parts/ service. If you get a chance, try one, they can spray a much bigger/ more atomized pattern than both our guns. It just sucks having to wait 2 to 3 weeks to get parts in from Spain if you have problems & it's even worse if they have to replace your gun.:(

[92CamaroRS]

Originally posted by JoeyK
Iwata's good too. You just grow into what's comfortable. It almost can be compared to Chevy & Ford guys arguing!:lol: I still sat those Sagola's just might take over some day if they can get better dealer support & parts/ service. If you get a chance, try one, they can spray a much bigger/ more atomized pattern than both our guns. It just sucks having to wait 2 to 3 weeks to get parts in from Spain if you have problems & it's even worse if they have to replace your gun.:(

Next time the paint supply rep is out to the shop, ill ask him if he has one of those for a demo.

[JoeyK]

That'd be cool, you'll like it. Just don't laugh when you see them. They are a bit bigger/ bulkier looking & they look just downright odd to me. I called them overgrown water pistols untill our PPG rep. insisted I try one.:lol: