DFizzle
04-13-2006, 07:30 PM
I know there's already a how-to on under dash neon, but there were a few people still asking about it and I used a different method to wire my cathodes so I figured the more options for people the better.
This how-to will run though the steps I took to install two sets of Cold Cathode Florescent Lights from Oznium.com (http://www.oznium.com) in the foot wells of my 2004 Grand Am SE1. There are numerous ways to both locate and wire interior lighting and this is by no means the only option. This tutorial does not utilize the car's existing wiring, and as such does not include steps to wire the lights so they turn on with the interior lights or when the doors open. While that is possible, and has been done successfully by a ton of people, I chose instead to run my own power wire from the battery. In the simplest of terms, to tie the lights into your interior lighting, rather than running a separate wire you would splice into the existing power wires for your cigarette lighter, dome lights or your door trigger wires which will be located and color coded differently depending on the year and make of your vehicle.
In order to keep this relatively brief, I'm not going to run through how I chose Cold Cathodes over standard neons or LEDs. Suffice to say, I did a lot of research and chose the type of lighting that would best suit my needs. Everyone will be looking for different results so do your homework and pick the option that works for you.
Materials and tools: (click on links for pictures)
(2x) Cold Cathode Set (http://www.oznium.com/cathode-kit)
Hook-up Wire (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049743&cp=2032058) (Gauge is up to you, for just a few cathodes 18AWG is probably fine but I used 14AWG in 2 Different colors if available, one for power, one for ground)
(2x) Ring Terminal (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103306)
Butt Connectors (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2151268)
Fuse Holder (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102781)
Fuse (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102779) (5Amp)
Switch (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062526)
(2-3x) Quick Disconnects (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104091) (for switch hookup)
GM Replacement Battery Terminal (http://www.infinitecaraudio.com/cgi-bin/icastore.cgi?user_action=detail&catalogno=GMBP) (May be required depending on vehicle)
Electrical Tape (or heat shrink (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102875))
Wire Loom (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103809) (optional)
Zip Ties
Small Screws (optional)
Self Tapping Screw (for affixing ground)
Wire Cutters (or other form of cutting implement)
Wire strippers (some careful work with a knife can work just as well)
Crimpers or Pliers
Soldering Iron (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062758) (optional but suggested)
Solder (optional but suggested)
Power Drill
Adjustable or socket wrench (for removing and replacing battery terminal)
Most of these materials can be purchased at Radio Shack or Walmart and at any number of online retailers.
Lighting Location
One of the first things you need to do is figure out where you want to mount your lights. Every car is different and it may take some time to determine the best location. Before ordering your lights, it's a good idea to get under your dash and make sure you'll have room to mount them. Every set will be a bit different and it's not a hard and fast rule, but in general, give yourself at least an inch of clearance on either end, so 12 inch lights will need 14 inches of space. It's also very important to make sure the lights are located so they won't be easily kicked by passengers or by you while driving. This may seem obvious, but many a tube has been busted by a careless foot or as a result of poor placement.
Driver Side: (Click on Pictures For Larger Versions)
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/DriversSideThumb.jpg (http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/DriversSide.jpg)
Passenger Side:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/PassengerSideThumb.jpg (http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/PassengerSide.jpg)
Mounting the Lights
Once you've determined where to mount your lights, the process of putting them there is really a "by any means necessary" operation. Common methods are zip ties and double sided tape but velcro and more permanent means of attachment like epoxy or screws are also used. Your method will depend on the availability of attachment points and your willingness to mod the location. I chose to use a combination of screws and special zip ties with screw mounting holes.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/ThodeMountingTiesThumb.jpg (http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/ThodeMountingTies.jpg)
Switch Location
The next most important decision is where to locate your switch. The options of where to put your switch are only limited by your ability to remove panels and gain access to different locations. I've seen switches just about everywhere, but common locations include the center console by the shifter, on the side of the center console to the right of the driver, under the dash by the driver's left knee and front and center in the radio trim piece. The location is up to you, but make sure it's convenient and that there's plenty of clearance for the power hookups to the switch terminals.
Mounting the Switch
The mounting of the switch will most likely require drilling a hole in whatever location you choose. The size of the hole will differ depending on the switch you use. If at all possible, it's much easier to remove the panel your drilling rather than trying to maneuver the drill in the car. You can also purchase switches with switch plates (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062527) that can be affixed to the chosen panel and eliminate the need for drilling but these plates often require more work to hide the wiring. Once you've made the hole for your switch you can either mount it or wait to wire it, depending on its location. Generally, it's easier to wire the switch and then pop it into it's final location afterword. I decided to mount my switch on the under side of the lower pocket in my dash. I removed the panel and used a step bit to cut the 15/16 inch hole.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/DrillingSwitchHoleThumb.jpg (http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/DrillingSwitchHole.jpg)
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/SwitchAngleThumb.jpg (http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/SwitchAngle.jpg)
Final Switch Location (those wires are for my ipod)
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/FinalSwitchLocationThumb.jpg (http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/FinalSwitchLocation.jpg)
Wiring
In many cases, the footwell lights you've purchased may be connected to a single cigarette adapter, or wired together in some way leaving you with two wires, one + (power) and one - (ground). If you're lights have a cigarette adapter, simply snip it off, separate the two wires and strip off about half an inch of the insulation. In many cases, the wires will be coded in some way to indicate which is which (red is power, black is ground or the wire with the white stripe is power while the one without is ground). If there is no clear indication which wire is which, you may need to do some testing with a power source to determine the + and - wires. In the case of my cathodes the power wire is red and the black is ground. Having two sets, I simply stripped off some of the insulation and twisted the two power wires together and the two grounds together and then crimped them into butt connectors and extended them using a single wire for each.
Ground
The ground wire from your lights will need to be affixed to a solid ground on your car's chassis. If you need to extend the power or ground wires, add extra wire using crimp on butt connectors or solder and then tape or heat shrink the connection. Once your wire reaches your ground location, strip the end and crimp on a ring terminal and use a self tapping screw to attach it to the chassis. You can ground your lights in any number of locations, just make sure it is affixed securely and that no paint or rust comes between the ring terminal and the surface of the ground which must be bare metal. I used a section of the floor pan by the passenger side frame rail under the door sill trim piece which just pulls off and then snaps back into place. I first used a wire brush attachment on my drill to strip away a small area of paint.
Ground Location:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/GroundLocationThumb.jpg (http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/GroundLocation.jpg)
Ground Wired:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/GroundWiredThumb.jpg (http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/GroundWired.jpg)
Power
The power wire from your lights will be wired to the "load" terminal on your switch (indicated by the packaging or label on the switch) using a crimp on quick disconnect spade to attach the wire to the switch terminal.
Power Wire from Battery
Using another crimp on quick disconnect, attach your new power wire that will run to your battery to the "power" terminal on your switch. (note: if you're using a light up switch, as I did, the third terminal on the switch is simply wired to your ground) From there the power wire will need to be run through the fire wall. In some cases you may be able to locate wires that already run through the firewall by removing a panel or two from beneath the drivers side of your dash. The panels should have a number of large clips holding them in place which are easily pulled out. If you can not locate a preexisting hole in the firewall you may need to drill one. If so, be sure to locate it in a place where it is relatively easily accessed from the engine compartment and free of obstructions.
Once your wire is run through the firewall, use a rubber grommet or some type of sealant to close up the whole and ensure that the insulation on the wire is not pierced by the bare metal of the fire wall. Determine the approximate length of wire you will need to reach your vehicle's positive battery terminal and snip off the excess, leaving a bit extra. Now you will need to add your fuse holder within 18 inches of the battery. Fuse holders differ but if it is not pre-wired, simply cut your power wire at the location you wish to install the fuse and wire one end to each terminal on the holder and install your fuse in the holder. Each set of cathodes draws about .7amps so a three Amp fuse would be sufficient and I wouldn't go any higher than 10amps unless you have quite a few sets.
Soldering Pre-Wired Fuse Holder:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/SolderingFuseHolderThumb.jpg (http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/SolderingFuseHolder.jpg)
Final Fuse Holder Setup:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/FuseHolderThumb.jpg (http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/FuseHolder.jpg)
Now, crimp a ring terminal onto the wire leading from the fuse holder, and bolt it under the + (red) battery terminal. (GM battery terminals often require a special replacement terminal (http://www.infinitecaraudio.com/cgi-bin/icastore.cgi?user_action=detail&catalogno=GMBP) in order to add on power accessories.) Finally, if you want, put wire loom around your new power wire from the fuse holder to the fire wall. Be sure the wire doesn't come in contact with any moving parts or anything that gets too hot.
Battery Terminal:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/TerminalThumb.jpg (http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/Terminal.jpg)
Final Wire Layout:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/EngineBayThumb.jpg (http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/EngineBay.jpg)
Now, flip the switch and your lights should work. Go through and tuck in or zip tie all the wiring out of the way inside the car for a clean install. Keep in mind that with direct connection to the battery, the lights will stay on if you leave them on, so be careful to turn them off when leaving your car.
This may not be the simplest way of doing this, but I feel it is the most complete and ultimately safest method. Running a new power wire also allows for future expansion of your interior lighting if you choose to do so. All you'll need to do is run additional wires from your power wire and ground to your lights and use a larger fuse and you don't risk overloading any of the pre-existing circuits in your car.
I tried to make this as simple and thorough as possible but if there are things that don't make sense or anything people think should be added, please reply and let me know.
It should be obvious, but I accept no responsibility for damage or injury incurred to you or your vehicle while using these instructions
This how-to will run though the steps I took to install two sets of Cold Cathode Florescent Lights from Oznium.com (http://www.oznium.com) in the foot wells of my 2004 Grand Am SE1. There are numerous ways to both locate and wire interior lighting and this is by no means the only option. This tutorial does not utilize the car's existing wiring, and as such does not include steps to wire the lights so they turn on with the interior lights or when the doors open. While that is possible, and has been done successfully by a ton of people, I chose instead to run my own power wire from the battery. In the simplest of terms, to tie the lights into your interior lighting, rather than running a separate wire you would splice into the existing power wires for your cigarette lighter, dome lights or your door trigger wires which will be located and color coded differently depending on the year and make of your vehicle.
In order to keep this relatively brief, I'm not going to run through how I chose Cold Cathodes over standard neons or LEDs. Suffice to say, I did a lot of research and chose the type of lighting that would best suit my needs. Everyone will be looking for different results so do your homework and pick the option that works for you.
Materials and tools: (click on links for pictures)
(2x) Cold Cathode Set (http://www.oznium.com/cathode-kit)
Hook-up Wire (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049743&cp=2032058) (Gauge is up to you, for just a few cathodes 18AWG is probably fine but I used 14AWG in 2 Different colors if available, one for power, one for ground)
(2x) Ring Terminal (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103306)
Butt Connectors (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2151268)
Fuse Holder (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102781)
Fuse (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102779) (5Amp)
Switch (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062526)
(2-3x) Quick Disconnects (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104091) (for switch hookup)
GM Replacement Battery Terminal (http://www.infinitecaraudio.com/cgi-bin/icastore.cgi?user_action=detail&catalogno=GMBP) (May be required depending on vehicle)
Electrical Tape (or heat shrink (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102875))
Wire Loom (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103809) (optional)
Zip Ties
Small Screws (optional)
Self Tapping Screw (for affixing ground)
Wire Cutters (or other form of cutting implement)
Wire strippers (some careful work with a knife can work just as well)
Crimpers or Pliers
Soldering Iron (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062758) (optional but suggested)
Solder (optional but suggested)
Power Drill
Adjustable or socket wrench (for removing and replacing battery terminal)
Most of these materials can be purchased at Radio Shack or Walmart and at any number of online retailers.
Lighting Location
One of the first things you need to do is figure out where you want to mount your lights. Every car is different and it may take some time to determine the best location. Before ordering your lights, it's a good idea to get under your dash and make sure you'll have room to mount them. Every set will be a bit different and it's not a hard and fast rule, but in general, give yourself at least an inch of clearance on either end, so 12 inch lights will need 14 inches of space. It's also very important to make sure the lights are located so they won't be easily kicked by passengers or by you while driving. This may seem obvious, but many a tube has been busted by a careless foot or as a result of poor placement.
Driver Side: (Click on Pictures For Larger Versions)
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/DriversSideThumb.jpg (http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/DriversSide.jpg)
Passenger Side:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/PassengerSideThumb.jpg (http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/PassengerSide.jpg)
Mounting the Lights
Once you've determined where to mount your lights, the process of putting them there is really a "by any means necessary" operation. Common methods are zip ties and double sided tape but velcro and more permanent means of attachment like epoxy or screws are also used. Your method will depend on the availability of attachment points and your willingness to mod the location. I chose to use a combination of screws and special zip ties with screw mounting holes.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/ThodeMountingTiesThumb.jpg (http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/ThodeMountingTies.jpg)
Switch Location
The next most important decision is where to locate your switch. The options of where to put your switch are only limited by your ability to remove panels and gain access to different locations. I've seen switches just about everywhere, but common locations include the center console by the shifter, on the side of the center console to the right of the driver, under the dash by the driver's left knee and front and center in the radio trim piece. The location is up to you, but make sure it's convenient and that there's plenty of clearance for the power hookups to the switch terminals.
Mounting the Switch
The mounting of the switch will most likely require drilling a hole in whatever location you choose. The size of the hole will differ depending on the switch you use. If at all possible, it's much easier to remove the panel your drilling rather than trying to maneuver the drill in the car. You can also purchase switches with switch plates (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062527) that can be affixed to the chosen panel and eliminate the need for drilling but these plates often require more work to hide the wiring. Once you've made the hole for your switch you can either mount it or wait to wire it, depending on its location. Generally, it's easier to wire the switch and then pop it into it's final location afterword. I decided to mount my switch on the under side of the lower pocket in my dash. I removed the panel and used a step bit to cut the 15/16 inch hole.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/DrillingSwitchHoleThumb.jpg (http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/DrillingSwitchHole.jpg)
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/SwitchAngleThumb.jpg (http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/SwitchAngle.jpg)
Final Switch Location (those wires are for my ipod)
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/FinalSwitchLocationThumb.jpg (http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/FinalSwitchLocation.jpg)
Wiring
In many cases, the footwell lights you've purchased may be connected to a single cigarette adapter, or wired together in some way leaving you with two wires, one + (power) and one - (ground). If you're lights have a cigarette adapter, simply snip it off, separate the two wires and strip off about half an inch of the insulation. In many cases, the wires will be coded in some way to indicate which is which (red is power, black is ground or the wire with the white stripe is power while the one without is ground). If there is no clear indication which wire is which, you may need to do some testing with a power source to determine the + and - wires. In the case of my cathodes the power wire is red and the black is ground. Having two sets, I simply stripped off some of the insulation and twisted the two power wires together and the two grounds together and then crimped them into butt connectors and extended them using a single wire for each.
Ground
The ground wire from your lights will need to be affixed to a solid ground on your car's chassis. If you need to extend the power or ground wires, add extra wire using crimp on butt connectors or solder and then tape or heat shrink the connection. Once your wire reaches your ground location, strip the end and crimp on a ring terminal and use a self tapping screw to attach it to the chassis. You can ground your lights in any number of locations, just make sure it is affixed securely and that no paint or rust comes between the ring terminal and the surface of the ground which must be bare metal. I used a section of the floor pan by the passenger side frame rail under the door sill trim piece which just pulls off and then snaps back into place. I first used a wire brush attachment on my drill to strip away a small area of paint.
Ground Location:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/GroundLocationThumb.jpg (http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/GroundLocation.jpg)
Ground Wired:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/GroundWiredThumb.jpg (http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/GroundWired.jpg)
Power
The power wire from your lights will be wired to the "load" terminal on your switch (indicated by the packaging or label on the switch) using a crimp on quick disconnect spade to attach the wire to the switch terminal.
Power Wire from Battery
Using another crimp on quick disconnect, attach your new power wire that will run to your battery to the "power" terminal on your switch. (note: if you're using a light up switch, as I did, the third terminal on the switch is simply wired to your ground) From there the power wire will need to be run through the fire wall. In some cases you may be able to locate wires that already run through the firewall by removing a panel or two from beneath the drivers side of your dash. The panels should have a number of large clips holding them in place which are easily pulled out. If you can not locate a preexisting hole in the firewall you may need to drill one. If so, be sure to locate it in a place where it is relatively easily accessed from the engine compartment and free of obstructions.
Once your wire is run through the firewall, use a rubber grommet or some type of sealant to close up the whole and ensure that the insulation on the wire is not pierced by the bare metal of the fire wall. Determine the approximate length of wire you will need to reach your vehicle's positive battery terminal and snip off the excess, leaving a bit extra. Now you will need to add your fuse holder within 18 inches of the battery. Fuse holders differ but if it is not pre-wired, simply cut your power wire at the location you wish to install the fuse and wire one end to each terminal on the holder and install your fuse in the holder. Each set of cathodes draws about .7amps so a three Amp fuse would be sufficient and I wouldn't go any higher than 10amps unless you have quite a few sets.
Soldering Pre-Wired Fuse Holder:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/SolderingFuseHolderThumb.jpg (http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/SolderingFuseHolder.jpg)
Final Fuse Holder Setup:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/FuseHolderThumb.jpg (http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/FuseHolder.jpg)
Now, crimp a ring terminal onto the wire leading from the fuse holder, and bolt it under the + (red) battery terminal. (GM battery terminals often require a special replacement terminal (http://www.infinitecaraudio.com/cgi-bin/icastore.cgi?user_action=detail&catalogno=GMBP) in order to add on power accessories.) Finally, if you want, put wire loom around your new power wire from the fuse holder to the fire wall. Be sure the wire doesn't come in contact with any moving parts or anything that gets too hot.
Battery Terminal:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/TerminalThumb.jpg (http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/Terminal.jpg)
Final Wire Layout:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/EngineBayThumb.jpg (http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a245/juggleboy720/Cathode%20Install/EngineBay.jpg)
Now, flip the switch and your lights should work. Go through and tuck in or zip tie all the wiring out of the way inside the car for a clean install. Keep in mind that with direct connection to the battery, the lights will stay on if you leave them on, so be careful to turn them off when leaving your car.
This may not be the simplest way of doing this, but I feel it is the most complete and ultimately safest method. Running a new power wire also allows for future expansion of your interior lighting if you choose to do so. All you'll need to do is run additional wires from your power wire and ground to your lights and use a larger fuse and you don't risk overloading any of the pre-existing circuits in your car.
I tried to make this as simple and thorough as possible but if there are things that don't make sense or anything people think should be added, please reply and let me know.
It should be obvious, but I accept no responsibility for damage or injury incurred to you or your vehicle while using these instructions