99 Grand Am electrical issue

[kdgibson]

Hi all. I'm new to the forum, and have a question. I was replacing the alternator in my 99 grand am se, got the old one off just fine, but I cannot for the life of me get the new one on.

EDIT:

I got the alternator installed, the battery tested 'good', but I'm still not getting her started. I get power for about 1/10 of a second, then nothing. Everything was fine until three days ago, I parked my car, came back 15 minutes later, and nothing. Any help is appreciated!


Thanks all!

[Gtspeed03]

when you turn the key to run do you get any lights. What kind of alternator di u put in, it is possible that you wired something wrong or shorted something and fried the computer

[kdgibson]

I now believe that the alternator is not the issue, nothing has changed since I installed it. I get the accessory ding when I put the key in, turn the key and I get dash lights very very briefly, then nothing at all. I'm gonna try jumping it tonight and see if that helps.

[coupe]

Tighten your battery terminals down.

[rixGAphx]

:welcome:

This is a VERY common problem on the GA.

Yer a n00b here, so I'll be gentle:
It's the battery cables, and they need about an hour of serious service from you.

GA Batt Cable Service:

Battery cable ends must be clean and tight and shiny bright.
Even the best new alternator and the best new battery can't provide adequate power (volts and amps) if the connections are so dirty/loose/corroded that power doesn't flow thru them.
Bad connections will also kill both the alternator and the battery very quickly.

So, inspect/clean/repair/replace/tighten both ends of both cables to provide maximum flow of electrical power.
Disconnect cables: NEG (Black) first, then POS (Red).
Cut the molded rubber boots from the battery connections, since water seeps thru them and corrodes the copper wire into useless powder (This step is VERY important. You can't just look at the outside and think, "They look alright".)

Dissolve corrosion with a paste solution of baking soda and water, applied with an old toothbrush.
Scrape/sand/wire-brush all the metal (cable ends and batt terminals) to shiny metal.

Pay attention to the Body Ground: This is a smaller Black (Neg) wire that comes from the battery terminal and attaches directly to the bodywork, somewhere near the left (Driver) side hood edge. This is a source of rust, and must be kept clean and shiny.

Reconnect cables: POS (Red) first, then NEG (Black); this is OPPOSITE of the way you disconnected them.
Replace the cut-off boots with new aftermarket slip-on rubber boots to protect against short-circuiting while allowing for future inspection and service.

Weird things happen to GA's when the cables aren't in pristine shape.
It's necessary and cheap (or even free!), so there's no downside to servicing them immediately.

Good luck.
-Rick

PS:
Before I 'discovered' how critical this is for the GA, the rotten cable killed TWO alternators and TWO batteries, beside leaving me stranded in the #$@'ng desert.

[kdgibson]

It worked! I can't thank you enough! You just saved me so much time, effort, money, and hassle.

Car runs great, except for the fact that the driver's side window and the trunk popper won't work. Both stopped working before the incident, it's gotta be related. Any thoughts?

Thanks again!

[rixGAphx]

Originally posted by kdgibson
It worked! I can't thank you enough! You just saved me so much time, effort, money, and hassle.
Well, thank YOU for saying so!!

It makes my day to know I've helped somebody.
That's why I participate here.

...the driver's side window and the trunk popper won't work.
Don't know on teh 'trunk popper', since mine's a mechanical cable while I understand the '99+ models have something electrical.
ALL 'trunk poppers' have a 'valet lock-out feature' in the trunk, so check that yours isn't set wrong.

Driver's window:
The regulators (motor + drive assembly) on the GA fail frequently, but there are also other things to do/check before tearing into the door and spending $$

Here's my write-up on the PRE-'99 windows; most of it applies to you, particularly lubing the window tracks and servicing the switches.
(And, don't forget to check the fuse :eek: ):

There was a significant change in the GA power windows in '99, and mine is the old-style 'scissors-action'.

Service:
1. Remove door handle panel (two phillips-head screws in the bottom of the 'hand grip'), and twist aside.
2. Unplug and replug the connector from the window switch(es). The pins corrode and get 'gunky', so they need to be cleaned for EXCELLENT contact (when the window is partly-open, roof drainage water drips right onto the switches, and corrodes the pins and such). Mebbe even clean the contacts with toothpicks, or a metal dental pick. Use a little household rubbing alcohol and cotton Q-tips to dissolve the gunk.
This alone may give you enough power to solve the problem.

3. Lube the vertical tracks, using spray silicone (don't use WD-40, oil, or grease). This will provide long-term lubrication yet won't smear when you wash the window like petroleum products will.
This may reduce the resistance enough to solve your problem.

Still not working well?
4. Now for the tough stuff, inside the door:
5. Remove the door panel (careful of the screw behind the reflector), and use a special 'trim removal tool' to pop the plastic fasteners loose. You'll *prolly* break a few, but replacements are available for a couple $$ in the HELP! section of Checker/AutoZone/etc.
Also be EXTREMELY careful of the mechanical side-view mirror adjustment knob!!. The little plastic grommet canNOT be removed, it just BREAKS!!! Every Pontiac dealer body shop has a box of these little f'ers under the counter, about $3 each (I buy 2 each time, 'cuz I'm clumsy).
You can prevent breakage: With the door open, you can kinda rotate/pivot the panel onto the outside of the roof/windshield so it's out of the way, with the cable still attached. Tape the panel in place.
6. Remove the plastic weather barrier; it must be reinstalled, so try not to tear it.
7. With the window up, look at the operating mechanism:
* Pre-‘99 were 'scissors' mechanism. Lots of things that slide and roll and rotate, and many prolly have rust.
* ‘99+ are a kind of ’rolling plastic chain’ mechanism with fewer parts that move or rust. They also have the infamous 'plastic clips' at the bottom that break easily (replacements also available from the 'HELP!' section).

Use Naval Jelly to dissolve the rust, then rinse and allow to dry. You may have to sand/steel wool some items.
This mechanism is never gonna look pretty; your goal is simply to lube the things that move.
Apply moly-based wheel bearing grease to the tracks, and every other moving thing you can.
Apply heavy oil (engine oil, like 10W30) to all the rollers and pivots that you couldn't grease (don't use light machine oil like 3-in-1).
Do NOT use WD-40 as a lube!! It is mostly solvent, and won't provide the long-term lubing that you need.
8. Look at the rear of the mechanism. There is one screw or bolt where it attaches to the door structure. This has a small amount of adjustment (to allow the window to rise parallel with the track). This bolt loosens over time, so adjust the glass as needed and tighten the screw (maybe a bolt, I don't really remember).
9. Reinstall the weather barrier plastic, using black goop and lots of duct tape to reduce wind leakage thru the door-handle slot.
10. Reinstall panel and handle panel.

OKAY.
You've now returned the entire window assembly to about 80% of the *new* condition.
Everything should work pretty well.
If it doesn't, then it's time for a new motor, and/or regulator.

Hope this helps.
-Rick

PS: Once or twice a year, service the switches (driver and passenger sides) by unplugging/replugging the socket to reduce the effects of corrosion.

Also, do a 'search' on this forum for 'Power Windows'; lots of tips.

[tenspeed]

Rick, you should cut and paste a service manual. I hope you have some of your FAQ answers in a folder somewhere.