View Full Version : 93 Grand Am SE running horrible
dooglydoug
05-05-2006, 10:22 AM
Ok let me start off with giving you a little background on what I have. I own a 66 mustang and about a year ago i realized that gas was pretty much raping me so i bought a 93 grand am se with a 2.3l sohc to get me back and forth from school. i bought the car for a reasonable price so i figured it would have its problems. The first thing that was wrong was the fuel pump, the fuel pumped worked but it wasn't pumpin with the current wiring system so i wired it to an acc wire and it works fine. At first it drove really rough, it didn't matter if it was in drive, neutral, reverse, any gear. then when i would take it on the highway it drove fine, still a little rough but atleast it was going, but when i got off the highway and went to a stop it would shut off. it wasn't getting hot, nothing wrong with the oil, it would just shut off.well i figured out that the motor mount was making the engine shake so i replaced. then i looked around on the transmission and found the overdrive sensor and disconnected it and never had another problem with the transmission. now i've got myself a whole new puzzling problem that i just can't find the solution to.ok the odometer reads 260,000 but engine was rebuilt at around 200,000. i've had a bad head gasket and had it replaced along with the valves. i do all the work myself. the engine just doesn't feel like it had much power. it spudders at lights, when u floor it, it jus hesitates and runs really rough, if u accelerate slow it does it to. it doesn't shut off on me it jus runs terrible. when im on the highway u barely notice it unless you u have to pass someone or press the gas in general but as long as the cruise is in its not to bad.i've replaced the spark plugs, boots, numerous sensors, including maf,map, throttle, all the injectors, fuel pressure regulator and the knock sensor and it still hasn't fixed it. i don't want to take it to a shop because i know that they'll charge me more then the car is worth due to all the things that have been done to.i use to have a 95 firebird with a 6 cylinder that had almost the same problem and i took it up to the dealer and it was an inline fuse to the injectors and cost me 280 to replace a fuse. i don't want that to happen again. theres no service engine light on it just runs terrible. any replys will help me out with just a little bit of insight on the problem
Gamebay11
05-05-2006, 10:46 AM
Did you put it back into time when you did the head gasket? Other than that I got nothing.
dooglydoug
05-05-2006, 11:34 AM
yea i did after i did the head gasket ir ran great for about 3-4 months and then started running bad, im about where u r
rixGAphx
05-05-2006, 12:48 PM
Man, that was tough for these old eyes to read. :grr:
PLEASE use 'enter' a few times.
:D :D
* * *
Anywho, as I understand it:
1. Ran fine for several months after a complete valve job.
2. Now:
* Runs well at part throttle, cold or warm.
* Bogs-down and 'sputters' when you give it some gas, both on acceleration from a stop and when on the road.
* No 'Check Engine' light.
These conditions are classic signs of two possibilities:
1. A vacuum leak at the intake manifold.
2. A faulty Throttle Position Sensor (TPS).
You may also have a clogged cat (especially with the age of the vehicle), but that would have other symptoms (esp stalling at cold idle).
But worth checking-out anyhow.
Hope this helps.
-Rick
dooglydoug
05-05-2006, 02:40 PM
sorry bout all the info just had alot of stuff to say
i don't hear any vacuum leaks on the car but i will try to spray some carb cleaner on them to see if it speeds up any so i may find out if theres a leak
as for the throttle position sensor i'm gonna call and see how much it is so i can replace it, but i did think about a clogged cat and took the exhaust off before the cat and it acted the same.
i also wanted to say that the car use to run bad some days and good on others. the way i can always tell if its gonna run bad is by the oil light coming on, the little red one at the bottom left of the dash
thanks for the help rick any other ideas would help out to
Prospeeder
05-05-2006, 03:36 PM
Uh 0h. oil pressure lights come on when theres 5 psi or less of oil pressure, your engine might be ready to take a shit dude
rixGAphx
05-05-2006, 04:44 PM
Originally posted by dooglydoug
...the way i can always tell if its gonna run bad is by the oil light coming on, the little red one at the bottom left of the dash
ding, Ding, DING!!!
We have a Winna!!
* * *
1. Your bearings and/or oil pump are on the last legs, causing low (BAD) oil pressure.
* Prepare for a rebuild. $$
* Use thicker oil, SAE 40. That's what it's for: worn engines.
2. The Fuel Pump has an interlock with the oil pressure sensor.
When the oil pressure falls, the power to the FP will be cut.
Sounds like your oil p is 'wavering'; mebbe causing the fuel pressure to drop/rise/drop just a *little*.
Using thicker oil *should* get the oil pressure back into 'acceptable' range (15+ psi ).
Hope this helps.
-Rick
Prospeeder
05-06-2006, 12:05 AM
put 70-90 WT oil in it and sell it :P im kidding....
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