upper door tweeter replacement FYI

[AAS SC/T]

I have found that the Infinity Reference 1011t 1" tweeter will fit directly in the upper door tweeter location without any mods. Just a little dab of silicone to hold them in securely. I put mine in today and they also sound awesome compared to stock tweeters much smoother sound.

[JoeyK]

There's alot of tweeters out there that will fit actually. The main reason why your Infinities sound so crisp is they are drawing more power being they are 4 ohm. The stock tweeters were 6 ohm. I have done the same with a set of R.F.'s & noticed a big jump in the upper frequencies. I actually have to turn the highs down on the head unit some now.:)

[AAS SC/T]

Yes I am aware of that the tweeters are 6ohm and door speakers were 2 ohm. Now I have door speakers that are 4 ohm and tweeters that are 4 ohm making a 2 ohm load. And the infinitys dont sound harsh like the stock tweeters. I was basically posting that they will snap right in with no mods what-so-ever just pop out stock one and press these in. I'm sure you could make others fit.

[JoeyK]

Cool, I don't know why you would say the stock tweets are harsher, they are weak compared to the Infinities. (I have a Kappa component set in the rear) They are much brighter as the stock tweets are about half as crisp. Anyways; you no longer have a 2ohm load & if you were to hook up one of the old speakers & leave a 4 ohm in (For comparison) then you'd notice a diff. in volume.
You now have a tweeter pulling 4 ohm, which seems to be better imo, but you're woofer is running 4 ohm. These are 2 seperate lines from the internal crossovers. The resisitance is not combined. In this case, 4 ohm + 4 ohm does not = 2 ohm. It's 4ohm + 4 ohm = a 4 ohm load from the low side crossover & a 4 ohm load from the high side.

[taisgod]

hey once i get the infinity 6x9s in the back, ill be able to put my aftermarket tweeters up front :)

[JoeyK]

Originally posted by taisgod
hey once i get the infinity 6x9s in the back, ill be able to put my aftermarket tweeters up front :)

You got a PM coming in just a bit:)

EDIT; that's good thinking!:D

[AAS SC/T]

Originally posted by JoeyK
Cool, I don't know why you would say the stock tweets are harsher, they are weak compared to the Infinities. (I have a Kappa component set in the rear) They are much brighter as the stock tweets are about half as crisp. Anyways; you no longer have a 2ohm load & if you were to hook up one of the old speakers & leave a 4 ohm in (For comparison) then you'd notice a diff. in volume.
You now have a tweeter pulling 4 ohm, which seems to be better imo, but you're woofer is running 4 ohm. These are 2 seperate lines from the internal crossovers. The resisitance is not combined. In this case, 4 ohm + 4 ohm does not = 2 ohm. It's 4ohm + 4 ohm = a 4 ohm load from the low side crossover & a 4 ohm load from the high side.

I disagree if I hook up my ohm meter at the ammplifier where my positive and negative leads come back the amp its seeing a 2 ohm load. It all depends how you hook up. I have a positive and negative running to the front and and the door speaker and pod tweeter are hooked in parallel with the tweeter have a passive crossover after the only on the lead running in the tweeter positve lead. 4ohm and 4ohm in parallel equals a 2 ohm load.

[JoeyK]

Hmm,.. can't quite get what you meant there. The only way your gonna see a 2 ohm load that way is to use the woofer lead coming from the amp & abandon the tweeter leads. (We are talking the Monsoon system here, aren't we?) If you have don'e that it can't sound good because your not getting any high frequencies from the Monsoon system for your tweeter.
I am full aware that 4 ohm wired in paralell is a 2 ohm load. Are you useing the Monsoon amp or are you running an aftermarket? That's the only way your train of thought is making any sense.

[AAS SC/T]

Originally posted by JoeyK
Hmm,.. can't quite get what you meant there. The only way your gonna see a 2 ohm load that way is to use the woofer lead coming from the amp & abandon the tweeter leads. (We are talking the Monsoon system here, aren't we?) If you have don'e that it can't sound good because your not getting any high frequencies from the Monsoon system for your tweeter.
I am full aware that 4 ohm wired in paralell is a 2 ohm load. Are you useing the Monsoon amp or are you running an aftermarket? That's the only way your train of thought is making any sense.

NO monsoon here. All aftermarket
Alpine DVA 9860 head
Kicker 700.5 five channel amp
Infinity Reference 6012si 6.5" in lower door location
Infinity Reference 1011t 1" tweeter in upper door pod
Infinity Kappa 693.7i 6x9 in rear deck
2- Audiobahn 12" AW1200 high excursion Subs
2 8" headrest moniters

[JoeyK]

Aha! makes a load of sense now. I thought you were running the stock system yet. Oh heck ya, those Infinities have to sound worlds better than the stock tweeters with the system you have!
I did the same as you though, popped out the tweeter & then epoxied mine in. I first treid hot glue - bad idea if your car gets hot in the summer - the hot glue let go so & then went overboard w/ 2 part epoxy. They''l probably never come out but oh well, it kinda ticked me off to do something twice so I made sure to nip that in the bud.:)

I see you have the 693.7i's in the rear, I have the 692.7i's in the rear deck & love them, great speakers, both of them.:)

[AAS SC/T]

No problem it happens its easy to mistake when you dont have all the info.

[MantaGreen97]

Originally posted by AAS SC/T
Yes I am aware of that the tweeters are 6ohm and door speakers were 2 ohm. Now I have door speakers that are 4 ohm and tweeters that are 4 ohm making a 2 ohm load. And the infinitys dont sound harsh like the stock tweeters. I was basically posting that they will snap right in with no mods what-so-ever just pop out stock one and press these in. I'm sure you could make others fit.

While this is a fine procedure to use (and as mentioned many aftermarket tweeters will fit well), note that for people simply replacing the stock tweeters and nothing else the one thing you cannot do when doing this is to keep the tweeter wired to the factory inline passive crossover that is used on most GM cars with the tweeters separate. I'm not sure how the Monsoon system is wired (does it have separate bi-amped lines or something?) but I know in my factory setup with the tweeters it just had the 4x6 wired in parallel with the tweeter with an inline crossover on the tweeter line.

The inline crossover is a simple capacitor [simplest type of crossover at 6dB/octave] has a capacitance value that matches with the 6 ohm tweeter to produce the desired crossover frequency. Again, how this figures out with the Monsoon system I don't know as I'm unsure how that system is wired.

Using the same crossover with a different nominal impedance tweeter will seriously alter that crossover frequency and can cause poor sound characteristics at best and overheating the head unit (due to high load at some frequency range) at worst.

So long as you have used the inline crossovers (or crossover modules as the case may be) that came with the aftermarket tweeters and have been sure to remove the factory capacitor crossover, you should be fine.

I understand AAS SC/T that you have a entirely different setup but that^ was just a note to ppl wanting to replace the tweeters and nothing else. As far as your amp seeing a 2 Ohm load, rest assured it actually isn't. Though your meter may show a 2 Ohm DC resistance, the amp will not actually see a 2 Ohm impedance through the entire frequency range. Since you've used the inline capacitor, depending on it's slope and frequency characteristics, the amp sees only a lower load in the frequency where the midrange and tweeter overlap; and again, the impedance is going to vary according to the actual impedance at those frequencies with the midrange and tweeter combined.

Really it is best to remove the high frequencies from the midrange driver so only the tweeter is playing those frequencies (using either an appropriately wired inductor or just using a complete crossover module from some component set). IMO this should benefit overall SQ of your front stage.

[JoeyK]

Yup, even your resistance varies at diff. frequencies. Going from 6 ohm to 4 ohm doesn't seem to make as much of a diff as you'd think though. Not with the cutoff used on the stock system. It does really make the aftermarket tweets scream though. Almost too bright. I had to turn down my highs. It doesn't seem to hurt the head unit amp at all. I've had mine like this for over 3 years now.

EDIT; There's a crossover in the h.u. that splits the highs loose & amplifies it within the h.u., then feeding the tweets. The rest of the signal is sent to the amp in the rear where the signal gets split one more time there, feeding the rear woofer with a bass/ midbass signal & the fron woofers with a midrange signal.

[AAS SC/T]

In the monsoon system the amplifier had the crossover built in no passive crossover.

Im aware that the amp doesnt see a complete 2ohm load, sorry I didnt go into complete details. Yes to have a componet crossover is best but not everyone has that set up because the 6.5 dont all fit the application because of mounting depth.

If I had know this was going to be such an issue I never would have posted it. I was just letting people know that you could put them in without modifying the stock mount to put different tweeters in.

[JoeyK]

Originally posted by AAS SC/T
In the monsoon system the amplifier had the crossover built in no passive crossover.



You're right, they are active crossovers.

AAS SC/T; sorry if I ruffled your feathers. It's pretty much common knowlage on these forums that most aftermarket tweets will just drop right in. I was just worried a newby or anyone not fully inclined to this type of procedure would just simply say "hey, well there ya go!" & just do it without fully understanding the technical side of it & ruining something in the meantime.

[MantaGreen97]

^Yeah same thing I was thinking/worried about here. Well nice that the Monsoon bi-amps then, so the tweeters in the Monsoon system are easily swapped though personally I would ditch the entire thing, HU, amp(s), speakers and all. But that's just me of course :P

[JoeyK]

Originally posted by MantaGreen97
^Yeah same thing I was thinking/worried about here. Well nice that the Monsoon bi-amps then, so the tweeters in the Monsoon system are easily swapped though personally I would ditch the entire thing, HU, amp(s), speakers and all. But that's just me of course :P


...You'd be supprised how nice a Monsoon can sound with some "tweaking":D Mine sounds better than alot of aftermarket systems out there. I guess it's a matter of personal preference. I don't like most aftermarket h.u.'s these days as they have a million tiny buttons & look like they belong on the command console of the Starship Enterprise.:lol:
I like to take something stock & tweak it, it's more of a challenge to me then to just go out & buy something to drop in. - Guess it's either my creative or my stubborn side, depending on how you look at it.:lol:

[AAS SC/T]

Originally posted by JoeyK
You're right, they are active crossovers.

AAS SC/T; sorry if I ruffled your feathers. It's pretty much common knowlage on these forums that most aftermarket tweets will just drop right in. I was just worried a newby or anyone not fully inclined to this type of procedure would just simply say "hey, well there ya go!" & just do it without fully understanding the technical side of it & ruining something in the meantime.

Not to worry I didnt bother me it was just getting kinda long and techical for what I had posted.