those with nitrous

[VanishingImage]

Im thinking about going with nitrous setup and need some info. Im highly thinking about getting another car(one thats a lil quicker stock and a stick) so I feel nitrous will be the last thing I do to the GA and just focus on the apperance more.

What setup,wet or dry,would be best. I think I'll go with a 50-75 shot after seeing theres a lot of 4bangers using those shots in moderation and having no problems with damage to their motors.

Im looking into NX system,anyone have any thing to add or to input???


as for the other car Im looking at.....a 2000+ Celica GT-S 6 speed.

[kickarsgrdam01]

wet is better on the engine and such but a dry is so much easier and cheaper

[car audio dave]

not sure what its called, but get it set up so that it only sprays at WOT. its safer than if you have a separate button. of course youll still need an activation switch.

[VanishingImage]

yea Ive heard of that. You mount the WOT thing under the pedal so when your WOT it automatically ingauges

[Matt95GT]

A wet shot will provide a safer tune, since it will gaurantee there will be enough additional fuel for a safe (rich) A/F ratio.

[Colin]

Nitrous is OK , ( i had a 100 shot on my 5.0 ) but after awhile you get sick of filling the bottle $$ . I ended up taking it off .....

[VanishingImage]

Originally posted by Colin
Nitrous is OK , ( i had a 100 shot on my 5.0 ) but after awhile you get sick of filling the bottle $$ . I ended up taking it off .....

yea I can see that someone would but I don't race a whole lot but Im sure once I actually got the system I will,lol.

[urweak]

get a supercharger. Your work for gm right? See what your cost is on the GM kit if the dealer can still get it. The tune it with HPtuners.

[VanishingImage]

Originally posted by urweak
get a supercharger. Your work for gm right? See what your cost is on the GM kit if the dealer can still get it. The tune it with HPtuners.

no,don't work for GM any more:(

I might still go with Phil's SC setup for the GA but just waiting for some progress

[TA^Guy]

Wet.
Originally posted by kickarsgrdam01
wet is better on the engine and such but a dry is so much easier and cheaper
Yeah easier and cheeper to install, until you end up with engine damage. I'd rather take the 20 mintues to run the fuel line and another solenoid instead of replacing or rebuilding a motor.
Originally posted by VanishingImage
yea Ive heard of that. You mount the WOT thing under the pedal so when your WOT it automatically ingauges
It's a mirco switch and it's not mounted under the pedal, instead you form a bracket and mount it behind the throttle linkage so when the throttle is opened all the way the linkage depresses the lever in the microswitch activating it.

[ManktheTank19]

Originally posted by urweak
get a supercharger. Your work for gm right? See what your cost is on the GM kit if the dealer can still get it. The tune it with HPtuners.

Will this s/c work on my car?????

I know he has the 2.4 but my unlce is an engineer for gm and he might get me a good deal

[VanishingImage]

Originally posted by ManktheTank19
Will this s/c work on my car?????

I know he has the 2.4 but my unlce is an engineer for gm and he might get me a good deal

you'll have to do what Matt did(Matt95gt) fab a custom intake mani to be able to mount the GM SC

[bandit307]

haha this is the right thread. ok.

Can someone point me in the direction of a wet kit that could be used on a ga? Or is it all universal, is there a direct port system for us?

[VanishingImage]

ZEX and NX have good wet systems, plus ZEX has a controller to help control the fuel

[urweak]

Originally posted by ManktheTank19
Will this s/c work on my car?????

I know he has the 2.4 but my unlce is an engineer for gm and he might get me a good deal

http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=39536&highlight=supercharger

[MagusXIII]

I used a NX wet kit when I had my ZX2 and it was a well built system. The components in the Ford 4cyl kit were pretty much a bit of overkill (like a nozzle that can handle up to 300hp shots as well as solenoids that can do the same) but it gives you room to upgrade if you do serious engine work. I am not a big fan of fancy electronic controllers like what the ZEX kit uses for fuel control on their wet systems as that is one more thing to fail. With a standard fuel solenoid, it will only get richer as bottle pressure goes down. And you will know when your bottle pressure is low by the feel of it. Lastly, ZEX does not offer a wet kit that will work with the LD9 according to their catalog.

Nitrous Express (NX) however DOES have a kit that will work with all GM EFI engines. The kit you want is found at http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/GMStage1.htm if you are interested. I do recommend a bottle heater though as that will keep the bottle pressure constantly at the recommended range. To get a bottle pressure that is optimum without a heater, the ambient temperature would have to be near 95F.

One thing that I am surprised is still being overlooked with regards to wet kits is fine tuning of the fuel mix. If you do not feel your fuel mix is rich enough or if it is, by any chance, way too rich, you can simply change the fuel jets to fine tune the amount of fuel being added to the nitrous. That cannot be done with the ZEX controller or a dry kit.

If you do get a nitrous system, get those platinum plugs out NOW! Nitrous will eat away the platinum in just one bottle. If you want a long lasting plug, you can get iridium plugs. But plug changes on an LD9 are simple. Save yourself some money and get tradtional copper plugs. The NGK part number in a non platinum plug would be a TR55. One thing to consider is going one heat range colder than a direct replacement. But in the NGK line, which is all I am really familiar with here, I do not see a colder plug for engines using a TR55. If anybody knows an AC/Delco plug that is one heat range colder, please post the info. :)

Of course, never forget to use premium fuel at all times, even if you are not spraying. And if, for any reason, you have had your computer retuned, get it back to the stock program for best overall safety.

[VanishingImage]

there you are! I remember you running the ZX2 with nitrous.

I still plan on using it. I am leaning towards the NX now,just because Im seeing it being used more and more in the Quad community. But once I get the turbo setup I'll convert it and use it as a spray kit on the intercooler.

[MagusXIII]

Originally posted by VanishingImage
there you are! I remember you running the ZX2 with nitrous.

I still plan on using it. I am leaning towards the NX now,just because Im seeing it being used more and more in the Quad community. But once I get the turbo setup I'll convert it and use it as a spray kit on the intercooler.
Yeah, you can get the N-tercooler setup which simply has a coil that fits over the intercooler. However, if you do that, use carbon dioxide rather than nitrous for your cooling. It will be a heck of a lot cheaper. Of course, you have to find a compressed gases shop that will fill a nitrous cylinder with CO2.

Or else you can put in a simple 20shot jet to help spool the turbo.

[VanishingImage]

yea the Cryo2 system is only like 300 bucks while the NX system is closer to 400 but I think the NO2 would be easier to get filled then CO2 would be,but I can always ask around know a few people in Dayton,Ohio that use NO2

[nino_neg]

just wodering if the dyno tune wet&dry kit is a good way to go??

or is the NX wet better?

[TA^Guy]

Originally posted by Matt95GT
A wet shot will provide a safer tune, since it will gaurantee there will be enough additional fuel for a safe (rich) A/F ratio. :agree:

Wet is always best for the reason Matt has mentioned. Msost people complain it's more stuff to install. True it is, but it's not hard. Just have to install a T-Fitting in the fuel line to a solenoid, from the solenoid to the plate or jet. The solenoid wires will wire directly to your nitrous solenoid. Very little work for a whole lot of peace of mind knowning that you won't be running lean.

Also make sure you go with different plugs. Not sure which work best in a GA with nitrous so maybe someone else could chime in here.

And make sure you purchase a micro switch. This will help prevent spraying when not at WOT. It's a tiny switch on a adjustable bracket. Mount the bracket near the throttle body so when the throttle is a WOT it applies pressure on the switch. Wiring would go from your power source, to the arming switch in the car, to a push button, to the WOT switch, to the solenoids. Fairly easy.

As for the Celica... I drove one for a week and I rate it #1 on my list of biggest POS cars I have ever driven.

[VanishingImage]

yea colder plugs. Still thinking about Nitrous too. Just seem prices of the kits have gone up? The cheapest system out is NX's Mainstream EFI system for 399

[Matt95GT]

Originally posted by VanishingImage
Just seem prices of the kits have gone up?

Someone needs to conduct an investigation of the mathmatical relation of nitrous kit pricing and how long ago a Fast and Furious movie was released.

[VanishingImage]

The only system Id go with is the NX Wet EFI system and thats about on average 560 bucks or so.

Hell,even just the bottles themselves cost 300 bucks. For the kits being mass produced they have seemed to go up in price


Not that Im some cheap ass,but comon,almost 600 bucks for a 50-75 shot kit??

[01_grandam]

Check out dynotune's wet nitrous systems. Pretty cheap too and good products. My brother has it on is ls1 Z28 with a 200 wet shot.

[nino_neg]

Originally posted by 01_grandam
Check out dynotune's wet nitrous systems. Pretty cheap too and good products. My brother has it on is ls1 Z28 with a 200 wet shot.

u think their system with both wet and dry would be a good way to go?

went by at street legal customs and they told me that dry wasnt good for the ga:???:

[VanishingImage]

can't really say its not good for the GA because the Grand Am has different motors. Wet is more safer then Dry but Dry isnt going to blow the motor up,well unless you just don't know how to use nitrous right

[TA^Guy]

Originally posted by nino_neg
went by at street legal customs and they told me that dry wasnt good for the ga:???:
As opposed to what??? Sound slike that place don't have a clue to what they are talking about. Makes me wonder if they ever installed a N2o setup before.

[nino_neg]

well it seemed that they knew what they were doing with all the hot cars they had there. i guess he just meant that wet is better than dry for our cars?

but i wana run both dry and wet with a 2 stage system and was wondering how that would go?

also wondering why zex is cheaper than other n2o setups

[TA^Guy]

Originally posted by nino_neg
well it seemed that they knew what they were doing with all the hot cars they had there. i guess he just meant that wet is better than dry for our cars?

but i wana run both dry and wet with a 2 stage system and was wondering how that would go?

also wondering why zex is cheaper than other n2o setups
I you already running a fuel line and solenoid why would you risk running a dry setup?

Not sure why ZEX kits are cheeper, maybe because of less solenoids and other parts? Less research and development maybe? Cheeper parts and materials? There are about three brands of N2O systems I would trust. NOS, NX, and Edelbrock. Edelbrock is fairly new in comparison, however their also owned and developed by the same parent company that owns NOS. NX has been around for a little while and from what I understand has a great research and devolpment department.

[nino_neg]

Originally posted by TA^Guy
I you already running a fuel line and solenoid why would you risk running a dry setup?

well what would i be risking?

[Colin]

Your engine .

[nino_neg]

well there are many ppl that only run dry and they dont really have problems. so i dont see the problem of running both wet and dry. anyway ill try and run as low of a wet as possible and mostly wet.

[MagusXIII]

Originally posted by TA^Guy
:agree:

Wet is always best for the reason Matt has mentioned. Msost people complain it's more stuff to install. True it is, but it's not hard. Just have to install a T-Fitting in the fuel line to a solenoid, from the solenoid to the plate or jet. The solenoid wires will wire directly to your nitrous solenoid. Very little work for a whole lot of peace of mind knowning that you won't be running lean.
If your fuel rails have a schrader valve test port, the NX system would have an adapter to use in place of the schrader valve. That makes it even LESS work and there is less of a chance of fuel leakage. Plus if one ever gets rid of the car, they merely put the schrader valve back in the rail and nobody will be the wiser.

[TA^Guy]

QUOTE]Originally posted by nino_neg
well what would i be risking? [/QUOTE]
Running the motor lean.

A stock fuel system is designed to supply fuel to a stock motor.

Adding a 50, 75 or 100 shot of nitrous oxide is going to need a decent amount more fuel. I personally would not relay on my factory fuel system to support that added demand. Plus, it's not exactally as instantaneous as running another solenoid. You have to relay on the vehicles sensors to sense the added oxygen and tempature to adjust and add more fuel. Now you have to ask yourself, is the stock computer adjusting correctly? Is it too little or too much fuel? Who knows.

But with a wet system you installing the matching jets to your hp level and you know your getting the proper mixture, no guess work or worries.
Originally posted by MagusXIII
If your fuel rails have a schrader valve test port, the NX system would have an adapter to use in place of the schrader valve. That makes it even LESS work and there is less of a chance of fuel leakage. Plus if one ever gets rid of the car, they merely put the schrader valve back in the rail and nobody will be the wiser.
Can you tell the Nitrous systems I've had my hands on were on carburated motors? lol

[Matt95GT]

Originally posted by MagusXIII
If your fuel rails have a schrader valve test port, the NX system would have an adapter to use in place of the schrader valve. That makes it even LESS work and there is less of a chance of fuel leakage. Plus if one ever gets rid of the car, they merely put the schrader valve back in the rail and nobody will be the wiser.

Yup. I know one of the companies calls it a fuel "cheater" solenoid.

The bad news... most of the 2.3's and all of the 2.4's lack fuel test ports. :doh:

[sqeet]

Originally posted by TA^Guy

And make sure you purchase a micro switch. This will help prevent spraying when not at WOT. It's a tiny switch on a adjustable bracket. Mount the bracket near the throttle body so when the throttle is a WOT it applies pressure on the switch. Wiring would go from your power source, to the arming switch in the car, to a push button, to the WOT switch, to the solenoids. Fairly easy.

So, for instance, in a drag situation in the 3400, how would you use the nitrous in this situation?

[VanishingImage]

mircoswitch that mounts on the throtle cable,think TA^Guy(John) mentioned what it exactly is. It sprays when you are WOT(wide open throttle) keep you from adding it too soon and possibly causing some engine damage.

[sqeet]

Originally posted by VanishingImage
mircoswitch that mounts on the throtle cable,think TA^Guy(John) mentioned what it exactly is. It sprays when you are WOT(wide open throttle) keep you from adding it too soon and possibly causing some engine damage.

I see that. The reason I asked is that I hear guys talking about how youre not supposed to spray until at least third gear or something like that...and if my understand of cars is correct, you can be WOT and not be in third gear...

[TA^Guy]

Originally posted by sqeet
I see that. The reason I asked is that I hear guys talking about how youre not supposed to spray until at least third gear or something like that...and if my understand of cars is correct, you can be WOT and not be in third gear...
Gearing isn't the issue as much as rpms.

I've never done a setup on a motor like these but to be safe I'd say anything over 2500 rpms at WOT would be safe.