VanishingImage
08-27-2006, 11:40 AM
These directions are from Darkfox from Qud4Forums.com....
Pictures are from my header...........
"2 things must be done so this will work.
Taking a quick look at the pacesetter header. The runners seem to almost shoot straight out from the flange, only making a slight angle down. The 2.4 sits at an angle in the engine bay, tilted around 30 or so degrees back towards the firewall. On a j-body, this makes for a perfect fit. On an n-body, there is less firewall clearance, so the downangle must be increased to clear it.
Disassembling the entire header, bending the runners, and rewelding is an option, but you might as well have a custom header made for the work and cost involved. The simple solution involves 2 things
1st -- The runners *must* be cut and re-welded. A wedge should be cut out of each runner, the header reassembled and then rewelded.
Each wedge must be cut in this fashion: each wedge should have its apex at the top of the runner, with the widest part at the bottom. The width of each wedge should be approximately 3/4ths of an inch. Each wedge should be cut at the exact same distance from the flange on each runner in order to somewhat preserve the geometry of the header and to ensure that all of the runner tubes will still line up correctly when the header is reassembled and rewelded. The ideal place to cut is not right next to the flange, for obvious reasons. An inch down on each runner is a good bet. To make it easier, the wedges cut should only be partial, leaving a little bit of metal on the topside of each runner to keep the header intact. Simply bend the flange down until the cuts meet and weld a nice, solid bead along the joints. The header should be tested for leaks after welding, and this is done quite simply by running water through each runner and looking for leaks.
2nd Have a custom downpipe fabricated and directly welded onto the header.
The downpipe/collector equipped with the pacesetter is fairly useless because its made to fit a j-body. After the header is cut and welded to fit, the downpipe/collector will stick down too far to be useful, and will no longer be angled correctly to bolt on to your exhaust anyway. The best bet is to get a new downpipe/flexpipe combo fabricated at an exhaust shop. The header should feed into 2.5 piping, then there should be a nicely sized flexpipe before it meets the cat. Since the downpipe flange on the header will no longer be needed, it is advisable to cut it off to provide extra clearance."
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v669/VanishingImage/header2.jpg
Heres the header in its original form,pretty isn't it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v669/VanishingImage/originalangleofheader.jpg
Heres the original angle of the runners,not gonna fit right,time to hack it up!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v669/VanishingImage/headercutup.jpg
The things cut up,flange,runners& collector,and EGR passage
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v669/VanishingImage/newangleofrunners.jpg
The new angle that has to be cut,3/4 inch in on the bottom of each runner.
Pics of it welded will come!
Pictures are from my header...........
"2 things must be done so this will work.
Taking a quick look at the pacesetter header. The runners seem to almost shoot straight out from the flange, only making a slight angle down. The 2.4 sits at an angle in the engine bay, tilted around 30 or so degrees back towards the firewall. On a j-body, this makes for a perfect fit. On an n-body, there is less firewall clearance, so the downangle must be increased to clear it.
Disassembling the entire header, bending the runners, and rewelding is an option, but you might as well have a custom header made for the work and cost involved. The simple solution involves 2 things
1st -- The runners *must* be cut and re-welded. A wedge should be cut out of each runner, the header reassembled and then rewelded.
Each wedge must be cut in this fashion: each wedge should have its apex at the top of the runner, with the widest part at the bottom. The width of each wedge should be approximately 3/4ths of an inch. Each wedge should be cut at the exact same distance from the flange on each runner in order to somewhat preserve the geometry of the header and to ensure that all of the runner tubes will still line up correctly when the header is reassembled and rewelded. The ideal place to cut is not right next to the flange, for obvious reasons. An inch down on each runner is a good bet. To make it easier, the wedges cut should only be partial, leaving a little bit of metal on the topside of each runner to keep the header intact. Simply bend the flange down until the cuts meet and weld a nice, solid bead along the joints. The header should be tested for leaks after welding, and this is done quite simply by running water through each runner and looking for leaks.
2nd Have a custom downpipe fabricated and directly welded onto the header.
The downpipe/collector equipped with the pacesetter is fairly useless because its made to fit a j-body. After the header is cut and welded to fit, the downpipe/collector will stick down too far to be useful, and will no longer be angled correctly to bolt on to your exhaust anyway. The best bet is to get a new downpipe/flexpipe combo fabricated at an exhaust shop. The header should feed into 2.5 piping, then there should be a nicely sized flexpipe before it meets the cat. Since the downpipe flange on the header will no longer be needed, it is advisable to cut it off to provide extra clearance."
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v669/VanishingImage/header2.jpg
Heres the header in its original form,pretty isn't it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v669/VanishingImage/originalangleofheader.jpg
Heres the original angle of the runners,not gonna fit right,time to hack it up!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v669/VanishingImage/headercutup.jpg
The things cut up,flange,runners& collector,and EGR passage
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v669/VanishingImage/newangleofrunners.jpg
The new angle that has to be cut,3/4 inch in on the bottom of each runner.
Pics of it welded will come!