Passlock

[Spoiled]

Hi!

I had an oil change and had AC Delco plugs (as recommended) installed a couple weeks ago.

Recently, my security light came on when I go to start the car, and once the light came on as I had just pulled away from a parking spot. I don't know if the plugs/oil change is a coincidence or resulted in my security light coming on.

I've read that the ignition cylinder may need to be replaced. How much are parts and labour in Canada for such a repair? Is it something that I can ignore as long as I don't mind doing the 10 minute relearning thing?

Thanks!

[Colin]

Originally posted by Spoiled
Hi!

I had an oil change and had AC Delco plugs (as recommended) installed a couple weeks ago.

Recently, my security light came on when I go to start the car, and once the light came on as I had just pulled away from a parking spot. I don't know if the plugs/oil change is a coincidence or resulted in my security light coming on.

I've read that the ignition cylinder may need to be replaced. How much are parts and labour in Canada for such a repair? Is it something that I can ignore as long as I don't mind doing the 10 minute relearning thing?

Thanks! I doubt it's related , but it does usually require a new ignition cylinder . You can wait the 10 mins , but it may eventually not start period . Not sure on a price $ , but i'd call around and get some estimates . If you're brave you can disable it :D But that would defeat the security theft protection , so i'd recommend getting it repaired properly .

[Spoiled]

Thank you for your reply Colin. I wasn't too sure if this was a repair that I could ignore, but I guess not, eh? Not good if the car eventually doesn't start at all. I will have to look into this ignition cylinder.

Thanks for your prompt answer, much appreciated!

[Fire'N'Ice]

Originally posted by Spoiled
Hi!

I had an oil change and had AC Delco plugs (as recommended) installed a couple weeks ago.

Recently, my security light came on when I go to start the car, and once the light came on as I had just pulled away from a parking spot. I don't know if the plugs/oil change is a coincidence or resulted in my security light coming on.

I've read that the ignition cylinder may need to be replaced. How much are parts and labour in Canada for such a repair? Is it something that I can ignore as long as I don't mind doing the 10 minute relearning thing?

Thanks!
meh, no biggie
It's more a pain when you have to sit and wait the whole ten minutes before it'll start. The last couple days my light has been on (but starts no problemo) and no clue why, think it's got the hots for my "Service Engine Soon" light. It's quite a complex love trianagle I got going on...SES, Security and Check Tire Pressure

I was given a quote by my dealership/stealership approx. $300-$400 to replace the cylinder...

good luck

[MantaGreen97]

^Yeah it isn't that big of a deal when you just have the light on but the car runs fine; once it doesn't start though, then you're in trouble! LOL.

The plugs changed are almost certainly a complete coincidence--there's nothing in the PassLock system related to what would be done in the services you had performed. Just out of curiousity, though, do you have a remote starter installed on the car? This is a common place for PassLock problems like the one you're having--THEFT SYS/SECURITY light on but car running fine otherwise.

[Spoiled]

Originally posted by Fire'N'Ice
I was given a quote by my dealership/stealership approx. $300-$400 to replace the cylinder...
good luck

Thank you for the guesstimation.
Ouch!
:eek:

[Spoiled]

Originally posted by MantaGreen97
Just out of curiousity, though, do you have a remote starter installed on the car? This is a common place for PassLock problems like the one you're having--THEFT SYS/SECURITY light on but car running fine otherwise.

Yes, I have a "Viper" remote starter. It was installed by a trusted highly qualified technician 3 years ago. He knew all about the passlock problems and remote starters. He said I would be fine.

The only other times the security light has come on, has been the result of a low voltage battery, and a part on the remote that had to be replaced. So far the light comes on when something else has gone wrong, lol.

[Colin]

Originally posted by Spoiled
Thank you for the guesstimation.
Ouch!
:eek: Like i said phone around , the stealership is always expensive . You could buy the cylinder and have someone ( or you ) install it , just remember to do the relearn procedure on it .

[MantaGreen97]

^Yeah the cylinder is pretty expensive, especially if you get it [mechanically] coded to use your old key.

The cylinder isn't that hard to swap out but the part cost is relatively high, unfortunately. Cheapest way to do it really is to buy find a new ignition cylinder on eBay or something, for cheap, and install it yourself. The only thing will be that you'll have to use a new key (supplied with the cylinder usually) for the ignition. Doors will still be the old key but the new key will operate the ignition (kinda like old skool GMs, lol).

However you should be sure it is the ignition cylinder that's the problem, before replacing it ;)

[Colin]

Originally posted by Fire'N'Ice
meh, no biggie
It's more a pain when you have to sit and wait the whole ten minutes before it'll start. The last couple days my light has been on (but starts no problem) and no clue why The system has failed that's why the light stays on instead of flashing .

[MantaGreen97]

Originally posted by Spoiled
Yes, I have a "Viper" remote starter. It was installed by a trusted highly qualified technician 3 years ago. He knew all about the passlock problems and remote starters. He said I would be fine.

I see. You might still want to check into the PassLock bypass and related wiring, in that case. Check to see if the PassLock wires were soldered. The best way to tap into PassLock would be to solder the connections, heatshrink them, then spray a coat of insul-spray on after, or use some liquid electrical tape over the heatshrink.

It could even be a fault with the bypass module itself. Even if the install was done perfectly, it doesn't eliminate the possibility of component failure.

Not to say it is the bypass/wiring, but definitely worth checking out at least.

[nice96gt]

If you know for a fact it's the cylinder than buy it and just have a private mechanic install it. If you have someone do a diagnostic they will probably charge you for that plus labour and parts. That $300-400 estimate is about right.

[Colin]

:canada2: CANADIAN THREAD :woot:

[Spoiled]

Originally posted by Colin
:canada2: CANADIAN THREAD :woot:

:horay:

[nice96gt]

:lol:

[Fire'N'Ice]

see, with mine I don't have any extras and yet the voodoo lights always come back after being reset or eventually go away on their own. I'll be driving around...do-dee-do and voila! SES light goes away! :shrug:
I've had it read numerous times and the only thing that ever pops up is the gas cap do-ma-hickey (even bought a new gas cap-no such luck)
Just as of recently the Security light has come on (but doesn't prevent car starting)

I give up!!!:bawl:

[Spoiled]

Thanks for your replies. I'll have to borrow the name "voodoo lights" from ya Fire'N'Ice. I like that! lol

[andrewe77]

Check the terminals on your battery for corrosion and clean them. Mine was due to inconsistant voltage from the battery.

[Spoiled]

Thanks for the idea! I think the battery is only about a year old. Does it build corrosion quickly?

[eric99gt]

If it is the passlock system.....and you're not worried about someone jacking your car. It is easily disabled.

[Spoiled]

Is that the cutting wire thing that I've read about? I'm not too confident cutting a wire, lol.

[Colin]

Originally posted by Spoiled
Is that the cutting wire thing that I've read about? I'm not too confident cutting a wire, lol. Yes

[rixGAphx]

Originally posted by Spoiled
Thanks for the idea! I think the battery is only about a year old. Does it build corrosion quickly?
Quickly, and badly.

Unseen, within the molded rubber boots on the cable ends.
My 'stock' reply:
GA Batt Cable Service

Battery cable ends must be clean and tight and shiny bright.
Even the best new alternator and the best new battery can't provide adequate power (volts and amps) if the connections are so dirty/loose/corroded that power doesn't flow thru them.
Bad connections will also kill both the alternator and the battery very quickly.

So, inspect/clean/repair/replace/tighten both ends of both cables to provide maximum flow of electrical power.
Disconnect cables: NEG (Black) first, then POS (Red).
Cut the molded rubber boots from the battery connections, since water seeps thru them and corrodes the copper wire into useless powder (This step is VERY important. You can't just look at the outside and think, "They look alright".)

Dissolve corrosion with a paste solution of baking soda and water, applied with an old toothbrush.
Scrape/sand/wire-brush all the metal (cable ends and batt terminals) to shiny metal.

Pay attention to the Body Ground: This is a smaller Black (Neg) wire that comes from the battery terminal and attaches directly to the bodywork, somewhere near the left (Driver) side hood edge. This is a source of rust, and must be kept clean and shiny.

Reconnect cables: POS (Red) first, then NEG (Black); this is OPPOSITE of the way you disconnected them.
Replace the cut-off boots with new aftermarket slip-on rubber boots to protect against short-circuiting while allowing for future inspection and service.

Weird things happen to GA's when the cables aren't in pristine shape.
It's necessary and cheap (or even free!), so there's no downside to servicing them immediately.

Good luck.
-Rick

[Spoiled]

Wow! Thanks for the awesome "how to" reply!

I took my car back to the place where I had bought my remote starter. They replaced a small black box thingy at no charge, and everything seems to be ok, (so far!). So, I skipped the garage for now to see about the ignition cylinder, but I will do the battery thing as I had no idea it could get so cruddy so fast.

Thanks again you guys, you're awesome!

[Fire'N'Ice]

ok ok I think you all jinxed me...last night after work (been driving around with my voodoo lights for about two weeks now) friggin' car wouldn't start and of course the Security light was flashing so I had to wait the whole damn 10 minutes. But even after she was burping not wanting to go... Finally did and off I went, parked for a bit and of course when I come back 2 hrs late the damn 10 min ordeal allllllllll over again...
So ok, I knew I needed gas (was at 1/4 tank) so I thought I better get some and pray to any higher power that it starts after...voila! No burping or gulping...just vrooooooooom!!
Thirsty bitch!

<get home yada yada, she's parked overnight...fast forward to the morning>
Get in car, hmmm....no SES or Security blah blah, but I have the ominous SES....putter putter driving around and no more SES!! <kewl>

So ya....fast forward throughout day (parked at work all day> Get in car to come home and all bloody hell the Security light is on but no probs starting (and no other lights...)


Anyone want a realy pretty Grand Am??

[Spoiled]

Oh no! My bad luck has spread to you! I'm so sorry!
"If I didn't have bad luck, I'd have no luck at all".

[Colin]

Originally posted by Spoiled
"If I didn't have bad luck, I'd have no luck at all". Born Under A Bad Sign ... :)

[Madman]

i have a 2000 and have been having the passlock issue. so if i find the wires (yellow, black. and white wrapped together coming from the ignition), and cut the yellow wire, it will dissable it? is there a harness you can pull the wire out of instead of cutting it?

[eric99gt]

no no no.....you must solder a resistor inline that matches the resistance of the pellet in your key. In my case it was two small white wires covered with an orange insulator.

[Colin]

Originally posted by eric99gt
no no no.....you must solder a resistor inline that matches the resistance of the pellet in your key. In my case it was two small white wires covered with an orange insulator. There is no pellet in the key on some years , it's in the ignition cylinder itself . If you cut the yellow wire while the vehicle is running the passlock system should be disabled , the security light will stay on solid indicating the system has failed , but it should start up . You will of course have no theft protection , so do this mod at your own risk .... ;)

[eric99gt]

Doh....I was just going by the passkey system on my lumina.

[Colin]

Originally posted by eric99gt
Doh....I was just going by the passkey system on my lumina. Don't confuse passkey for passlock ... ;)

[Madman]

is it possible that a bad battery could casue the passlock system to malfunction? the other day i was going to cut the yellow wire, and when i went to start the car it wouldnt. the battery was bad, and the conection had tons of corrosion. so i replaced it and so far i havent had the passlock problem.

[andrewe77]

Originally posted by Madman
is it possible that a bad battery could casue the passlock system to malfunction? the other day i was going to cut the yellow wire, and when i went to start the car it wouldnt. the battery was bad, and the conection had tons of corrosion. so i replaced it and so far i havent had the passlock problem.

I thought the same thing and did the same thing you did but it started messing up after a few days; particularly when it was wet outside.

[Madman]

you know, i noticed it acted up with the bad weather aslo. i didnt have the problem all summer, till recently. and the weather has been changing. rain, humidity dropping, ect.

[Madman]

Originally posted by andrewe77
Check the terminals on your battery for corrosion and clean them. Mine was due to inconsistant voltage from the battery.

so this didnt fix it?

[andrewe77]

Originally posted by Madman
so this didnt fix it?

Nope. Replacing the cylinder did because now the passlock is permanently disabled.

[2K SE]

Originally posted by andrewe77
Nope. Replacing the cylinder did because now the passlock is permanently disabled.

Wait, you replaced the ignition cylinder and now passlock does not work. Why did you bother? My passlock "security" light has been on for a couple of weeks now so I know it is not working, but it always starts. I figured when I had the extra cash I would replace it but I would want passlock to also work for that kind of money. Otherwise I will just use the Homer mod and black tape the light. lol.

[andrewe77]

Originally posted by 2K SE
Wait, you replaced the ignition cylinder and now passlock does not work. Why did you bother? My passlock "security" light has been on for a couple of weeks now so I know it is not working, but it always starts. I figured when I had the extra cash I would replace it but I would want passlock to also work for that kind of money. Otherwise I will just use the Homer mod and black tape the light. lol.

I bothered because the passlock system was screwed up to where it would cause the car to not start every once in a while until the relearn procedure was done. I replaced the cylinder for $30 off of ebay + $15 to get a locksmith to code it to my key. Now the security light is on all the time which means the passlock is disabled and it will never prevent my car from starting again. Mission accomplished.

[bolt]

Read this I explain all about the ignition lock.

http://www.gaownersclub.com//forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=55639

[sustainblue]

I am having the same no start problem with my 99GA. An odd note though that no one has mentioned, is that when the key is inserted, the normal healthy chimes do not occur anymore.

Now the chimes sound very different, almost as if the car is telling me I am using the wrong key. Are these related?

The fuel pump primes, car starts and runs for 1-2 secs, then stops. Tried the re-learn deal without success. Security light stays illuminated and has never blinked. No aftermarket remote start or security system, just a 99ga that is sitting in a parking lot until monday morning when I can get the mechanic to look at it.

Any ideas?

[rixGAphx]

Originally posted by sustainblue
I am having the same no start problem with my 99GA. An odd note though that no one has mentioned, is that when the key is inserted, the normal healthy chimes do not occur anymore.

Now the chimes sound very different,...
The computer has no ability to change the sounds of the chimes.

But, if the battery power to the chime is weak, then it will sound different.
And poor battery power causes all sorts of problems for GA's.

First step, as with all GA-related electrical problems, is to service the battery cables.
Don't just inspect them, SERVICE them:

GA Batt Cable Service

Battery cable ends must be clean and tight and shiny bright.
Even the best new alternator and the best new battery can't provide adequate power (volts and amps) if the connections are so dirty/loose/corroded that power doesn't flow thru them.
Bad connections will also kill both the alternator and the battery very quickly.

So, inspect/clean/repair/replace/tighten all THREE ends of both cables to provide maximum flow of electrical power.
Disconnect cables: NEG (Black) first, then POS (Red).
Cut the molded rubber boots from the battery connections, since water seeps thru them and corrodes the copper wire into useless powder.
(This step is VERY important. You can't just look at the outside and think, "They look alright".)

Dissolve corrosion with a paste solution of baking soda and water, applied with an old toothbrush.
Scrape/sand/wire-brush all the metal (cable ends and batt terminals) to shiny metal.
In an emergency, Coca-Cola poured over the corrosion will partially-clean it.

Pay attention to the Body Ground: This is a smaller Black (Neg) wire that comes from the battery terminal and attaches directly to the bodywork, somewhere near the left (Driver) side hood edge. This is a source of rust, and must be kept clean and shiny. (This is the ‘3rd end’ of the NEG cable.)
The POS cable has a ‘3rd end’ that connects inside the Main Junction Box, about 12 inches from the battery.

Reconnect cables: POS (Red) first, then NEG (Black); this is OPPOSITE of the way you disconnected them.
Replace the cut-off boots with new aftermarket slip-on rubber boots to protect against short-circuiting while allowing for future inspection and service.
* * *
Still having trouble? Verify that the heavy cable from the alternator, around the back of the engine and connecting to the starter solenoid, has good connections and conductivity. The alternator can't charge the battery if this cable is bad.

Weird things happen to GA's when the cables aren't in pristine shape.
ABS is a particularly sensitive system, and will often show a random 'ABS' light though nothing else appears to be wrong.

Battery cable/connection service is necessary and cheap (or even free), so there's no downside to servicing them immediately.

Good luck.
-Rick

[sustainblue]

I had the same problem with my ford explorer. They were notorious for bad + cables. Anytime the the chime would sound weird I knew I had to fiddle with the cable. Odd thing is, the car would never start under that condition whereas the GA will. Wierd.

The follow up is I took off both terminals and scrubbed at them with a wire brush until the white corrosion was removed. Plugged everthing back in and it started just fine. Glad I researched first... I wonder how many people had the key cylinder replaced for a dirty batt terminal.

I do also have an extender of the + terminal for an amplifier power lead. I'm pretty sure that's the culprit.:D

[Dawniepoo]

Hey guys,
Ok I know of the security light when it's flashing,had it happened to me last month.But today it came on while i was driving home I was like great here we go again.But when I got home I turned off my car and it restarted just fine and no security light.So ?,Could it be something simple like my friend not closing his door all the way?Or my stereo bypass was not taped correctly?Now I do have a amp wire hooked up to my battery cable(course no amp nemore:( )but could that have something to do with it cause I have this almost electrical smell in my car especailly after I drive.Now I did wash and detail my baby yesterday and played the radio in the on position for about an hour could that be it too? Or (gulp)could it be my cyldedar?I hope not since it starts and all.I am already having to fork out 4-500 bucks on 1st cause I have a coolant leak in my intake.Still lost how that happened.Anyway sorry so long just wanted to get all my thoughts in here.Thanks guys.
Dawniepoo

[Dawniepoo]

wanted to add i bout my car 10/14/2005 don't know if battery is new or old but how long do batterys usually last

[rixGAphx]

<delete - owned by 'double-submit>

[rixGAphx]

The easiest way to mess-up a GA is to fiddle with the electrical system.Originally posted by Dawniepoo
I know of the security light when it's flashing,had it happened to me last month.
But today it came on while i was driving home I was like great here we go again.
But when I got home I turned off my car and it restarted just fine and no security light.
So ?,Could it be something simple like my friend not closing his door all the way?With a GA, it could be something like the high tides or the perfume you wore that day :D :D

Many GA electrical problems are 'transient, and they actually DO 'go away by themselves'.
When the computer no longer senses the original event that triggered the light, it turns it 'off'. Mebbe for a day, a week, mebbe for ever.

I wouldn't worry about it, but I would make a note in my little GA Diary that it happened, so I can refer back if something similar happens later.

Or my stereo bypass was not taped correctly?
Now I do have an amp wire hooked up to my battery cable (course no amp nemore).Either remove that unused lead, or make certain that it's well-sealed.
Electricity can kinda 'leak' from exposed poistive terminals to body ground, especially in the presence of moisture and dirt.
This can drain a battery, without blowing a fuse.

Might have caused your security light 'glitch'.

but could that have something to do with it, cause I have this almost electrical smell in my car especially after I drive.The 'electrical smell' is ozone, created by electrical sparks.
Anytime there are enough sparks for the odor, a fuse is blown; with two exceptions:
* Electric motors and generators (alternators) make some sparks naturally; and when their commutators start to wear they can produce excessive sparking/lots of odors:
* And, your old amp lead might be sparking-to-ground *just enuf* to cause an odor, but it's prolly not fused (so always 'hot'), which isn't good).
Now I did wash and detail my baby yesterday and played the radio in the 'on' position for about an hour; could that be it, too?Playing the stereo with engine 'off' draws-down the battery, but for only an hour and with no amp, it's all good.

The wetness of the washing might have caused the 'leaking' at the old amp wire.

Or (gulp)could it be my cyldedar?cyldedar???

Cylinders?
They don't go 'bad' in any such manner, so not to worry.
I am already having to fork out 4-500 bucks on 1st cause I have a coolant leak in my intake.
Still lost how that happened.
The infamous Lower Intake Manifold gasket, leaks coolant either into the crankcase or out onto the heads.

Happens to nearly every GA V6 since '94.
Damned GM :banghead:

$500 is very good; $650-750 is the 'norm'.
* * *

Batteries last 2-5 years, depending on how badly they are abused.
Every time a battery is deeply drained (like headlights left on over night), it loses about 10% of its life :eek:
And if you leave it discharged, it loses about another 5% each DAY until it's recharged.

so never drain your battery by playing the stereo all night, and if it happens get it recharged immediately.

Finally, make sure your battery cables are clean and tight and shiny brite.
I think I've written about this before, so do a 'search'.

Hope this helps,
-Rick

[Dawniepoo]

groovy.Thanks lotsa.So out I go to disconnect that line well maybe tomorrow since hubby is gone time to turn on that charm and get one of my neighbors to do it roflmao.Have a great night ya'll.
gan rankya:D for putting my mind at ease.