View Full Version : spark plugs
dcblackbird
09-17-2006, 06:39 PM
how do i take out the spark plugs in the front of the engine there like tucked down in there. is it hard? and how long does it take?
thanks
MantaGreen97
09-17-2006, 07:08 PM
The front ones are quite easy, the rear ones are tougher.
What you need is a "tune-up" (curved or bendable/pivotable head) ratchet and extension--you can usually find this as a "tune-up kit" in auto parts stores.
Takes about as long as removing three bolts and putting them in again, lol. Not long at all. The rear ones, though, are a bit tougher. I think there's more room behind the 3400 in a 99+ car than there is in the 94-98 cars with the 3100 but I'm betting it still isn't very easy. Be prepared for a lot of blind hunting for the spark plugs and then the hunting for the holes when you go to put in the new plugs, lol. Plus lots of scratching and cutting up your arms, IIRC.
daman
09-17-2006, 07:16 PM
If you do the front you need to do the rear too!!!
pull the alt. makes it alot easier..
dcblackbird
09-18-2006, 03:46 PM
i was thinking about new plug wires to.... are they worth it?
ik its posted everywhere but since the thread is up jw what the gap was again?
and these are the right ones correct?
http://www.pfyc.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PFYC&Product_Code=GN3001&Product_Count=6&Category_Code=GAUNDER
its an 01 3400
daman
09-18-2006, 04:03 PM
Yup good plugs i run the TR55's too; gap is .060 thou.
goredsox
09-20-2006, 08:44 PM
well i did the plugs on my babe really easy she has plenty of room front and back.
I have worked on a few 3100 and 3400's they are tough to get the back 3 out...
i use a/c delco platinums and they work great!!!
Scarfather
09-21-2006, 09:18 PM
the hard thing about it is not getting burnd by the exhaust manifold when removing the back ones so u might wana get some mechanics gloves and maby let it cooled down a bit if u got time.
oh yeah dont over torqe them.
Teamlino21
09-22-2006, 08:46 AM
I replaced the U&L IM gaskets last weekend on our 3400. Made it real easy to replace the SP's while it was torn apart. I installed the NGK TR55IX iridium plugs, checked the gap and they were all preset to .060. Also, installed MSD coil packs and wires. What a difference it made!
Xeiros
09-22-2006, 10:16 AM
What's the recommended SP gap for the 2.4's?
I've currently got some Bosch Platinum's in there that don't have to be gapped, and was thinking of switching to Iridiums.
daman
09-22-2006, 10:29 AM
Originally posted by Xeiros
What's the recommended SP gap for the 2.4's?
should say on your emissions sticker under the hood??
dcblackbird
10-07-2006, 04:50 PM
how do you gap plugs? i recently got some cuz my car just reached 50,000 miles but i havent had time to put them in with school and work.
sorry if this is a newb question
Teamlino21
10-08-2006, 11:21 AM
You use a SP gap tool. You can get them at any parts store for under $5. It's about as big as a half dollar and it has different gaps around the edge.
Once you have the tool, stick it between the center electrode and the outer ground electrode (arm). It should fit snug. "In most cases the factory set gap should conform to your vehicle specifications. However if it is necessary to widen the gap, do so with a tool that only pulls back on the ground electrode without touching the center electrode or the porcelain. To close the gap on a plug, GENTLY tap the plug, electrode first on a hard surface."
Hope this helps
Ron
Patchez
10-09-2006, 01:06 PM
A little off topic but kinda on at the same time:) Don't use anything other than stock plugs and wires in a stock motor. Even with a modded engine stick with stock wires. Go one colder on the plugs if you have major mods.
Originally posted by Scarfather
the hard thing about it is not getting burnd by the exhaust manifold when removing the back ones so u might wana get some mechanics gloves and maby let it cooled down a bit if u got time.
oh yeah dont over torqe them.
FYI
Let the head get dead cold before you attempt to remove the old plugs unless you want to learn about Heil-coils
With aluminum heads you should always remove the plugs dead cold and use anti-seize on the new ones.
Patchez
10-09-2006, 01:16 PM
Listen to Ray. ;) Doesn't happen much but it definately can!! Did this with my sled 20 years ago and learned my lesson then. Well, I learned my lesson when my Dad kicked my ass for friggin' up the sled(HA HA HA HA)
dcblackbird
10-09-2006, 02:54 PM
i already put the new ones in without anti seize... will this matter? should i take them out and put them back in again?
and why should you use stock plugs and wires?
i was thinking about getting these....
http://www.pfyc.com/pc/GA3004/GAUNDER/Taylor+8mm+Spiro+Pro+Spark+Plug+Wires.html
bballr4567
10-10-2006, 12:05 AM
I didnt use the stock wires on my car when I changed them (car has 134k on it and they were cracked) and I went with the MSD 8.5mm wires and they work great. Put Bosch Platnium +2 plugs in and its running like a charm.
I also third the change it when its dead cold. Early in the morning is the best time because its cold out side and your car is cold.
Takes about an hour plus or minus with the proper tools if you take your time and dont break anything.
Also dont buy plugs online. Its really stupid. Everyplace has got them and you can find almost every kind of plug in your local autozone or whatever.
djdanger
10-13-2006, 04:28 PM
Just did all six of my plugs in under 45 minutes, not getting in any hurry. From what I have heard though, it is MUCH easier to do the rear bank on the 3400 vs. the 3100. Went with the A/C delco iridium plugs.
Pte Socks
10-15-2006, 07:11 PM
Let the head get dead cold before you attempt to remove the old plugs unless you want to learn about Heil-coils Listen to this carefully, its very important. You do not want to mess with Heli coils on the back bank.
dcblackbird
10-16-2006, 05:20 PM
Originally posted by Patchez
Don't use anything other than stock plugs and wires in a stock motor. Even with a modded engine stick with stock wires. Go one colder on the plugs if you have major mods.
why?
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