Putting a Sub in

[98GTKid]

Alright, Well.

I own an older model Kicker CVR15. It is 800w MAX.

I am going to purchase a 480w rms (bridged) x 1 @ 4 ohms amp to go to it.

It is a profile HA1000 and I have heard very good things about it, it has a 3 year service warranty from crutchfield.

I want to know what gauge wire I would use for the power cord, ground.. etc.

and can anyone see any problems I could encounter using this amp?? (I have the DVC's wired to 4 ohms so this is not a problem)

[PontiacGT]

No smaller than 8ga. wire I'd say. Don't know much about profile.

[hamiltonaudio]

what size are the power inputs on the amp? If they're 8awg, then use 8...if they're 4 awg, then use 4... ;) Profile is on the same level as Jensen and Legacy. If you're happy with the purchase, great! I but I highly doubt that it'll make anywhere near 480wrms... didn't wonder about the wickedly low price? ;)

bmoney

[PontiacGT]

ewwwwwww.......

Pyle=pyramid=legacy=jensen = PUKE so i guess if profile = jensen then profile = PUKE?

[98GTKid]

lol profile is not jensen, or pyle or pyramid or whatever. When I get the amp, how could I test it to see if it really does pump out 480 watts? I have a digital multimeter but don't know how to test it. If my kicker is getting 200w its gonna sound like crap...how can they overrate their products?? Is it just nobody cares or is lying to the consumer legal now?? For anyone that does'nt have money pouring out the ass, their pretty much getting ripped on their stereo?

*sigh*

[hamiltonaudio]

Profile is NOT jensen, but its in the same league...thats what I meant. How can mfg's overstate their specs? easy, cause there's no laws! there is a new sanctioning body called the CEA (I think :) ) that independently tests and varifies amplifier power output...so if its "CEA Rated 1000wrms" then you're guaranteed of at /least/ 1000 wrms.

Lesser companies are very typical - they'll way overstate their power ratings, often listing ONLY peak power (to which there is no math to apply to)...so they can claim 2000 watts, when it really makes not even 500 wrms. And who knows what the distortion and damping factor are....

There are ways of easily benching actual power output, but unless you've got pure resistive dummy loads, a true RMS meter and the appropriate tables to refer to (along with knowing what to do) there's not much point <tee hee>

One thing to look for - check out the fuse rating on the side of the amp. How big? This is indicative of what the power supply will likely consume...very rough, but workable. If its a single 25A fuse for example, then using ohms law, that amp will make (25)(12.5)= 312.5 watts of power. This assumes its going to consume 25 amps and that it is 100% efficient.

Now, really that 25A fuse will likely mean 20A of consumption at most...and the amp will be 60-70% efficient if its lucky....so (20)(12.5) = 250*0.6 = 150 watts of real power. This is very crude and elementary, but its a very decent way of gauging normal amplifiers.

Sophisticated amps from high end companies defeat this math, but I guarantee you that Profile won't ;)

bmoney

[car audio dave]

damn you bmoney. you are eliminating the need for me to be here.

yes prfile is similar to jensen, dual,...not a high quality brand. as long as you dont expect too much from the amp then youll be fine.

make sure to keep the gain no more than 1/2 way. that amp distorts so much that itll blow out that sub pretty quickly.

[98GTKid]

Okay, well.. I mean. Is there is another brand within the same price range that is of higher quality that you guys could recommend to get my kicker poundin out the lows. I know a few of you have built budget systems in the past. What would be your recommendation for a low cost amp. Low as in 100-150.

[car audio dave]

why not wiat til you can afford something better? what will happen is youll buy a $100 amp now then 6 months from now youll want something better and get a $300 amp. if you wait, you can get a $400 amp and be happy with it.

[98GTKid]

Kenwood has a factory refurbished amp for 129.99 that was originally 199, how is kenwood on quality?

[PontiacGT]

JBL....I bought a JBL CS300.1 300w amp for my sisters car and it is wonderful, i got it for $125 shipped on ebay you could probably even go one size bigger in JBL.

It does cut out at like 27 volume on her head unit though, dunno if that's just the amp or the wiring or what but it still plays pretty loud but there is a limit, at least with my sisters setup.

[car audio dave]

Originally posted by 98GTKid
Kenwood has a factory refurbished amp for 129.99 that was originally 199, how is kenwood on quality?

never buy factory rebured stuff. in addition, kenwood is decent for decks, but i wouldnt buy their amps. they might not be horrible, but it wont make your sub pound.

[hamiltonaudio]

the sting of shitty product remains long after the sweetness of a "good deal" fades....buy yourself a real amp and be happy :)

bmoney

[PontiacGT]

haha, nice^

[98GTKid]

Originally posted by hamiltonaudio
One thing to look for - check out the fuse rating on the side of the amp. How big? This is indicative of what the power supply will likely consume...very rough, but workable. If its a single 25A fuse for example, then using ohms law, that amp will make (25)(12.5)= 312.5 watts of power. This assumes its going to consume 25 amps and that it is 100% efficient.

Now, really that 25A fuse will likely mean 20A of consumption at most...and the amp will be 60-70% efficient if its lucky....so (20)(12.5) = 250*0.6 = 150 watts of real power. This is very crude and elementary, but its a very decent way of gauging normal amplifiers.

Sophisticated amps from high end companies defeat this math, but I guarantee you that Profile won't ;)

bmoney

It has dual 30A fuses btw..maybe its not as crappy as we thought..

[98GTKid]

I researched JBL and have found mostly positive things. If you have something to say about JBL be it good or bad, please share. Otherwise, could someone point me in the direction of the correct GTO series amp??