Audio setup 99.1% done

[VanishingImage]

Well Im finally happy with this setup. I now have a 2 Audiobahn AW1251T subwoofers in a sealed box and a Kicker KX350.2 amp. I have the speakers ran to each channel at 2 ohms so each coil is getting 175 watts RMS for a total of 350 per sub.

Its definately a different sound,almost not noticable but it is. Doesn't hit as low as my old setup(ported box with a 12inch JL W3) but thats expected with a sealed box.

My last component to get is a cap and possibly do the Big 3 wiring under the hood. So any dimming lights should be a problem no more and should get better hard hitting with the subs.

I'll get pics,charging the batteries for the digi camera right now

[car audio dave]

running subs in stereo will make them have less impact. you need to run them in mono to get the best results.

[VanishingImage]

Yea Ive been thinking about that. Found an Audiobahn Mono block amp for 110. Its a 400x1 at 4ohms or 800x1 at 2 ohms. Has built in cooling fan. Might just upgrade to that one

[car audio dave]

you can bridge your current amp for a mono output.

[VanishingImage]

did and the amp seemed to be cutting out. It would last like 10 seconds then come back for a few minutes than cut back out. Might have to look at all the wiring again.

Maybe I can get something outa this amp. Its a nice amp,its Kicker so I know its good for something:D

[PontiacGT]

My kicker cuts out too....

anyhow, the cooling fans on audiobahns are a bit annoying....but if it's in your trunk who cares right? I have my amps mounted to the rear seat so when it's folded down i hear the fan, that's why I dont care for em

[VanishingImage]

yea and Im going to be making a false floor and will be mounting the amp under it with a plexiglass window with the sub cover that Jditch made for me on top of the window and maybe put a neon under the window with a mirror reflecting down onto the amp. Dunno yet

[hamiltonaudio]

the amp will cut out because its trying to drive a load its not designed for. Restate the specs on the subs and amp (subs voice coil arrangment and amp model) for proper wiring instructions.

bmoney

[VanishingImage]

Subs:

2 12inch Audiobahn AW1251T's 400 watts RMS dual 4 ohm voice coil

Amp:
Kicker KX350.2
350watts RMS @4ohms bridged
110x2 watts RMS @ 4ohms(175x2 at 2ohm)

Right now I have the subs wired in series-parallel to arrive at a 4ohm load at the amp. So its in bridged mode right now.

I can have the volume turned up to about 23 to have clean distortionaless bass and decent hard hitting. Once I go above 25 it cuts out. Gain is turned about 1/3 the way up. Bass Boost is turned up all the way.

[hamiltonaudio]

your setup is probably causing voltage drop (throwing the amp into protection). Couple things to look at:

1. settings - turn that bass boost OFF! not down, but off. in fact, flatten all the controls...then put the xover back to about 90 hz, and adjust the gain correctly (search it - its here somewhere). Leave the boost OUT!

2. check your ground - an insufficient ground will cause massive voltage drop all by itself. Where is the amp grounded to now?

I'm betting when u kill that bass boost, that will solve a lot of the issue....from there, I'm betting its voltage drop from insufficient wiring...do a check:

with the system AS IS: let the car idle with the system off. Using your trusty multimeter, check the voltage right at the amps terminals (not the battery). Write it down - now check right at the battery...is there any difference in the readings (eg - the amp reading lower?) If so, this is your first sign of wiring-induced voltage drop. Now have an assistant back in the bassy music and watch your meter (measuring again at the amps terminals)... as you get close to "cutout volume" you'll prolly notice your voltage dipping below 12 volts. Make note of voltage as it pukes....bet its below 11 volts :(

Do the checks, make the adjustments and she'll work for ya!

bmoney

[VanishingImage]

thanks man. I'll give her a look see:)

[PontiacGT]

good info. I mean I think i'm only running 10ga wire at the biggest, it was pretty small for my 150 watt amp so....something to check. also I think i have my ground wire grounded like shit, it's just screwed into the bottom of my trunk. Is there a better place? I only get 12 inches or so haha.

[VanishingImage]

I ran my ground wire under the trunk carpet to the body where it wasn't painted and where there was a bolt/screw.

Haven't been able to check yet so I turned the bass boost to 0 because there was no "off" on the amp. Put the HU on low output(where it has off,low,mid,high) its fine for now. Im about to wire it back to 2ohms and run it in stereo until I can get a mono block amp.

I also plan on doing the The Big 3 wiring under the hood. Should start saving for an Optima too

[PontiacGT]

what exactly is the big 3 wiring?

[car audio dave]

1) larger cable from alternator to battery
2) larger battery ground
3) this one can vary it can be:
-larger engine ground
-larger alternator ground
-larger cable from battery to starter
-larger cable from battery to fuse panel

or you could do all of that. ;)

i used 1/0 for the battery ground and 4 gauge everywhere else.

the best ground is to use the rear seatbelt bolt, but i always use my drill and griding bit to remove the paint. then after i bolt the ground under the seat belt bolt, i spray some primer over it to keep it from rusting.

[hamiltonaudio]

yep, seatbelt bolts are good places to hit...I'm more a fan of going right to the frame. Drill a hole in the spare tirewell pan (finish with a grommet) and run your wire out and under the car...I found a nice heavy piece of metal on the rear frame where the bumper support is welded to...like 3 layers of thick steel. This grounds over 3 kilowatts of power in my car with no issues :)

10 awg power wire is used on high powered subwoofers, and nothing more in my shop. At LEAST upgrade to 4 awg...I realize the price fo copper has gone crazy lately, but come on now...is the life and performance of your audio equipment worth saving 30 bucks? :)

bmoney

[PontiacGT]

^arent you afraid of getting the contacts dirty running it under the car and all?

and GREAT idea with the seatbelt bolt!

[hamiltonaudio]

the chassis gets clenaed right to shiney metal...connection is made, and the face of the ring terminal and entire PK bolt are coated in wheel bearing grease. I've taken apart systems I did 5 years ago and still shiney!

so no, not worried about corrosion...being dirty on the /outside/ of the connection means nothing :)

bmoney

[PontiacGT]

So, the grease doesn't dampen the electrical current at all?

[VanishingImage]

diaelectric grease definately helps with connections. Its a clear like grease that you put in headlight sockets,etc... So yea it helps any type of electrical flow


I re-wired some things this morning at school,helps getting there 30 min early,lol. And now the system is hitting great and is not cutting out. Drove home,30-45min drive,not a single cut out and was able to get up to 25 on the volume before the highs got distorted(factory door speakers) and the bass getting distorted

[hamiltonaudio]

nothing dialetric about wheel bearing grease (at least not intentionally ;) ) but no...grease does not interfere...only a very very thin film remains between the ring and the face...its the seal and rust prevention that the grease /around/ the connection provides is whats important....

Do a test - take two brand new bolts - any size you want. Coat one of them in grease and leave the other dry...throw them both in the corner of your driveway for a couple weeks. Wash them both off afterwards and compare the two - you now see why it works!

bmoney

[red98grandamse]

Originally posted by hamiltonaudio
yep, seatbelt bolts are good places to hit...I'm more a fan of going right to the frame. Drill a hole in the spare tirewell pan (finish with a grommet) and run your wire out and under the car...I found a nice heavy piece of metal on the rear frame where the bumper support is welded to...like 3 layers of thick steel. This grounds over 3 kilowatts of power in my car with no issues :)

Ive always grounded right to a rear shock bolt. been that way 2 years and not a single issue with it. theyre pretty easy to get to on a 4th gen, and are well hidden as well.

[hamiltonaudio]

with smaller gauge wire, there are LOTS of solid mounting choices...but when you're hiding 1/0 power cable (that is not only very large, but not nearly as flexible as smaller stuff) its actually quite a bit easier to get outside the car underneath....

Plus, if you're running 1/0 cable, there's a reason (BIG power) and you should be hitting the chassis anyway <wink>

bmoney