Some interior/audio shots (56k do we still have to warn away?)

[MantaGreen97]

Here's a few quick interior shots I took for another forum which is otherwise un-car-related. I thought since I took them I might as well post them here as well...

The quality of the pictures and quality of photography may not be the greatest they were just some quick snaps I took one day as I thought I should take some, lol. Actually probably the first time I'm posting pics of my own ever, so don't be too hard on me!

Comments and stuff are welcome but don't expect me to repaint everything because you think my paint job is bad or it needs to be another colour, lol :lol:

The lower dash pocket has been cutout and there I installed a Sony MDX-400 4-MiniDisc (yes I said MD) changer in it's place. The MDX-400 is actually a head unit on it's own (hence the second display and DIN sizing) however there's a trick to slave it to another Sony HU instead; but I won't get too much into the technical details.

Left Interior View (sorry my stupid digital voltmeter has one segment of the LED a bit flakey on the last digit :( ):
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o257/MDX-400/FullLeftView.jpg

I also use a Sony NW-HD3 Network Walkman in the car which is a 20GB HDD-based DAP (something like an iPod but not from Crapple, lol). It's integrated with the HU/UniLink Bus via a Connects2 Walkman-to-UniLink Integration Adapter which allows control and text on the head unit... The HD3 is the thing on the left of the visor (the thing on the right is essentially an OAT display). Wiring is done down the A-pillar.

[b]Sunvisor (track playing is AFI's "Endlessly, She Said":
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o257/MDX-400/Sunvisor.jpg

Visor Closeup:
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o257/MDX-400/HD3.jpg

Centre Dash, High; CDX-C7850 w/"AFI" text shown:
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o257/MDX-400/Centre.jpg

Centre Dash, High; CDX-C7850 w/"Endlessly," text shown (remainder must be scrolled):
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o257/MDX-400/Centre-High2.jpg

Centre Dash (Climate & MDX-400 View):
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o257/MDX-400/Centre-Mid.jpg

Centre Dash (MDX-400 & Shaker Control View):
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o257/MDX-400/Centre-Low.jpg

Door:
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o257/MDX-400/Door.jpg

Well hope those look good! (I noticed some slightly jagged edges after resizing :( But they still look okay I think).

[MantaGreen97]

Car audio system equipment list is as follows, in case anyone was interseted (much of this is not shown in the pics, sorry):
Source Gear:
Sony CDX-C7850 mobile ES Head Unit
Sony MDX-400 4-MD Indash Changer (UniLink Slaved, Optical Digital Connection)
Sony CDX-T60 mobile ES 6-disc CD Changer
Sony CDX-828 mobile ES 10-disc CD Changer (Optical Digital Connection)

Audio System Accessories:
Sony XA-U40 MCA (allows for more than one changer/device connected to the UniLink Bus)
Connects2 ASONWHD001 Walkman Integration Adapter
Sony XA-300 Tri-Input Aux-Input Adapter (now unused but can handle any audio device really)
Soundgate GMSW1 Steering Wheel Controls to Sony Wired Remote Protocol Adapter
Aura Bass Shaker Control Knob

Processing:
Sony mobile ES XDP-210EQ 21-band EQ/DSP (Digital Domain Crossover and Time Alignment)
JVC KS-N60 Electronic 6-Way Crossover (providing bi-amp facilities ;) )

Front Stage:
Focal Polyglass 165V 6.5" Component Set (Bi-Amped)

Subwoofer:
elemental Designs e12a.22 12" Subwoofer, in ported enclosure tuned to approx. 26Hz

"Enhanced Bass Effects":
Aura AST-2B4 Bass Shaker Pro x2 (1ea. mounted under driver and pax seats)

Amplification:
Aura RPM3004 (85Wx4 RMS @ 13.8V), Bi-amplifyng Focal set
Aura Class-D Digital Bass Shaker Amp (50Wx2 RMS)
Aura RPM3002 (~300Wx1 RMS), Temporary Sub Amp (my Orion XTRPRO 1000 stopped working some time ago, I'm currently awaiting an Orion HCCA D2400 though).

[DSMMAN]

Nice. I wish my mini disc changer fit in my gen car right where yours is. It wont though so I actually fabricated it to fit in the compartment in the headliner

[ga5speed02]

lookin good. keep up the good work

[bballr4567]

not too bad at all

Its so tempting to paint the interior of my car now. Its just so easy to do to not do it.

[nice96gt]

Not bad Roland...Nice spot for the changer. :thumbup2:

[wiseojelly]

OoO aaah looks awesome!!

[ManktheTank19]

Really good job :)

[honda-sux]

I got question, when you got the aftermarket Deck did you have to give up the use of the steering wheel controls ????

Cause I wanna get a new deck but don't wanna give up the steering wheel controls.

[04alyGT]

I like the integrated mp3 player, and the song playing on it XD
So did the player and the deck come together?

[styka]

Atta boy Roland. When I get my new GA, you gotta help me set up a system in it please! cya soon buddy! :D

[Big Joe]

very nice. audio equipment everywhere.

[MantaGreen97]

Originally posted by honda-sux
I got question, when you got the aftermarket Deck did you have to give up the use of the steering wheel controls ????

Cause I wanna get a new deck but don't wanna give up the steering wheel controls.
Actually I never had the factory steering controls until this year, lol. Over time I "collected" parts for the conversion off eBay... Airbag w/wheel controls, clockspring for a car with controls, and a Soundgate GMSW1 GM-to-Sony wired remote protocol adapter. I got all three brand new at really cheap prices but it took like 2 years to find them all. Clockspring was the most difficult to find and the only reason I got it was because I did a text search for the part number one day and it came up!

Anyway you don't have to give up your wheel controls. But you do require a wheel-controls to aftermarket interface adapter. I got mine (via above means) for like $15 US, but usually to buy one retail it'll cost at least $100 :( There's different types as I've described on other threads. Some aftermarket decks like many Sony decks, some Alpine, some Pioneer and a few JVC decks have wired remote ports on them. These are the best ones to get for integrating the factory controls because it retains a wired connection.

Other than that, you can get adapters which work with nearly any aftermarket stereo with wireless remote capability, but these use an IR "blaster" to throw IR codes to the HU in order to control it. A little tougher to install and not as reliable a control method (e.g. if something gets in the way of the IR beam, the HU might not receive it and you will have to try again).

Soundgate doesn't make the GMSW1 anymore but they do have a bunch of other adapters. You just have to find one that matches your make/model/year car and your aftermarket HU you choose to install. Soundgate, PIE, Peripheral and PAC are all companies that make such adapters. But again they aren't all that cheap unless you manage to get a deal on one.

[MantaGreen97]

Originally posted by 4576foxtrot
I like the integrated mp3 player, and the song playing on it XD
So did the player and the deck come together?
No certainly not. The CDX-C7850 is a 1998 model year deck (yes it's still working perfectly some 8 years after it was manufactured ;) ). The NW-HD3 (the DAP/"MP3 player") didn't exist until like 2004 or so.

There's a UK company called Connects2 that makes a Walkman-to-UniLink adapter, and that's the interface I have. It works with nearly all Sony Walkmans that have the standard Sony remote-port/phones jack on them (4-pin flat connector + standard headphones). UniLink is Sony's car audio changer protocol, so it shows up as a CD changer on the HU. Interestingly enough Sony themselves don't make a Walkman adapter but they do make an iPod adapter for their head units :roll2: (the XA-110iP)...

Anyway, thanks for all the nice comments from everyone--much appreciated! :)

[XoticGA]

Wow, this is the first I've ever seen of your car :lol:

[MantaGreen97]

LOL yeah as I said these are like the first pictures of my own, I've ever posted...

I have like zero pictures, in general, lol.

[honda-sux]

thanks 4 the info... :)

[Trudgn]

Looks awesome. What kind of paint did you use to get it so glossy? I'm getting mine red really soon, but I wasn't sure what to paint, you've given me some good ideas. Can you snap a picture of your center console? Did you paint anything down there?

[slowbird]

Looks good! :D

[Trudgn]

Also, how did you, or where did you get it painted?

[GTSpeeder]

The blue shifter boot, did u fabricate that yourself or buy it somewhere? Interior looks bad ass btw.

[MantaGreen97]

Originally posted by Trudgn
Looks awesome. What kind of paint did you use to get it so glossy? I'm getting mine red really soon, but I wasn't sure what to paint, you've given me some good ideas. Can you snap a picture of your center console? Did you paint anything down there?
...

Also, how did you, or where did you get it painted?

Oh the paint is fairly shiny/glossy itself but for added shine I clearcoated it after ;) To tell you the truth, it kinda looks better in the pics than in real life I think, LOL...

Anyway, the clearcoat will make it more glossy as well as protecting it from chips and scratches over time. The paint I used in particular was Duplicolour Metalcast--silver Groundcoat and then Blue Anodiser (it's a two-step paint). Then clear after that.

As for where, I did it myself as most people do, in my backyard (in the summer of course, lol). As for how, it's pretty simple and there should be a how-to or FAQ, or at least a few threads about painting your interior on the forum from other users. You pretty much just take things out, prep & paint them and put them back ;)

[MantaGreen97]

Originally posted by GTSpeeder
The blue shifter boot, did u fabricate that yourself or buy it somewhere? Interior looks bad ass btw.

Thanks :) Oh you caught the blue boots too eh? Yeah I didn't realise they didn't really get in the pictures until afterwards; but yeah the shifter boot and handbrake boot are blue vinyl. I had bought them off a seller on eBay that makes custom shifter boots for all kinds of cars (so it was an "exact fit" boot) but you can make them yourself.

The vinyl on these ones is a thin, not reinforced/thick like the OE boots so you might be able to make better ones given you use better vinyl I think.

To make them all you have to do is take your old ones off, unstitch them and get vinyl or leather (or other material) in the colour you want and then cut them the same and stitch them up the same. I did look for blue vinyl in fabric stores but I never found the right blue (usually it was just navy and really light blue) so I just gave up and bought them. I can probably find the seller name if you want...

[TA^Guy]

Isn't your car green?

[nineteen88ga]

Thats alot of equipment...probably sounds good but.... Why the bass shakers? Aside from adding more "shake", they don't do anything. They don't produce audio, but still need and amp to be powered. Personally I'd rather see that power be invested into something more worth while.

[MantaGreen97]

Originally posted by TA^Guy
Isn't your car green?
LOL, yes it is. But my favourite colour is blue :)

The blue and green go fine together anyway IMO. Not like I'm doing blue inside a red car (which wouldn't be very fitting IMO)...

Originally posted by nineteen88ga
Thats alot of equipment...probably sounds good but.... Why the bass shakers? Aside from adding more "shake", they don't do anything. They don't produce audio, but still need and amp to be powered. Personally I'd rather see that power be invested into something more worth while.
Actually a bit of a misconception I think. They do indeed produce audible sound... If I disconnect the sub but still have the skakers running it's pretty apparent if you turn the level up/down to hear it with just the front components v. the fronts + shakers. Afterall sound is created by vibration in general. The difference between a "tactile transducer" and a transducer strictly for audio [speaker] could be thought of as more of the degree of which one favours physical vibration to audible sound. The little bit of sound they do produce is also quite accurate I find as well, it doesn't make things boomy or muddy in my experience.

As for the why, I'm not really sure. Way back when I first heard about them they sounded pretty cool. Of course cool sounding can equal "gimmick" as well, so I did a lot of reading on tactile transducers back then and found out a lot of people use these things (or often larger, more expensive types which produce more force) in home theatre setups. Even people with powerful HT subs were using them because of the direct under-your-seat effect. Also read some reviews on them in car audio use, and again they were all good reviews. So I gave it a go and all I can say is I'm glad I did it. Also a little original I guess too. I mean the idea isn't anything new or anything but not something you find in most cars, even those with aftermarket stereo gear...

I don't see it as a waste at all--I'd recommend them to other ppl, and I'd probably put them in another car if I ever got one too. The effect they add is worthwhile IMO... People that have been in my car think it's cool/original if not anything else and no one has disliked it. Sure you can get the car shaking like that without them but you'd have to have be at pretty high SPL levels to get it anywhere near that direct and powerful. You don't have to listen at crazy levels all the time this way either, lol.

['96GAGT]

Are your side mirrors painted green?

[MantaGreen97]

Originally posted by '96GAGT
Are your side mirrors painted green?
Why yes they are body coloured actually... (Could you tell that from the pictures? You guys must really have an eye for detail!) I had that done a long time ago when the car was in a minor front end accident--I inquired about it at the shop and they did it for me for free. :) 96-98 cars (and most cars in general) definitely look better with body-coloured mirrors ;)

[nineteen88ga]

Fair enough...personal preference I guess. I believe they were designed to just give the affect of a "BIG" system, I'd rather invest the time and money put into them into an actual system. But at any rate..still a cool concept!
:)

[SuperDave31190]

nice set up, i like the "crapple" dis lol

[Travis]

Looks good.... but I think you might have a small obsession with AFI :P

[TJ04GASE]

I got a question, How hard is it to take out the vent rings to paint, cause i was pulling on them and they don't seem to just pop right out?

[Rainbow1616]

Hey I would love steering wheel controls, How hard was it to do this and what all parts do I need to find?

Thanks

[MantaGreen97]

Originally posted by TJ04GASE
I got a question, How hard is it to take out the vent rings to paint, cause i was pulling on them and they don't seem to just pop right out?
You need to use a wire coat hanger ("unravelled" just so you can use the hook part) and then you pull on one side of the clip, hold the vent so the clip is "in" and then do the other side and it pops right out.

That info should be on the existing how-to/FAQ for interior painting I would think as it's like that for all GAs with round vents (so 99+ cars as well).

Really easy to pop out but don't just pull on them without using the hanger or you'll probably break them.

[MantaGreen97]

Originally posted by Rainbow1616
Hey I would love steering wheel controls, How hard was it to do this and what all parts do I need to find?

Thanks
Hmm for me I needed the clockspring (aka airbag coil) with the wheel controls wires, and the airbag with the wheel controls (the airbag with the controls is slightly different on 96-98 cars). I also needed an interface to use the controls with an aftermarket HU.

On a 99+ it will be slightly different due to the location of the wheel controls. On the 99+ your airbag stays the same but you will need a different wheel (with the redundant radio controls) and you'll also need the clockspring for a car with wheel controls. If you have an aftermarket HU you'll also need to find an adapter.

I discussed this previously on another thread where someone asked about doing this and the hardest part for me to find was the clockspring (took me years, lol). I could have picked it up at a wreckers but parts prices are pretty high in Canada so it would have been expensive. A new one is also over $70 US in most cases, so that was even more expensive of course. I lucked out and found a NIB one real cheap but it took years to find it, lol.

Anyway all the stuff you can get on eBay/from an auto recycler/wreckers. Putting it in the car is not so hard. You'll have to disarm the airbag system, remove the bag, remove the steering wheel and remove/replace the existing coil/clockspring. Then wire up the protocol converter for the HU (if required). Replace the wheel (with the one with the controls) and replace the airbag and re-enable the system, and off you go. :)

[Rainbow1616]

Would I still need the adapter if I want to just hook it to my existing monsoon radio?
I have been keeping an eye on ebay , nothing so far:(

[MantaGreen97]

^Nope, if you just want steering wheel controls with the factory HU you just need to get the parts and you should be good.

The only thing you should be certain of is whether the wheel controls in your year car was using the older resistance-ladder type protocol or whether it used Class 2 data. I'm not sure if the wheel controls in any GA would have used Class 2 to interface the wheel controls with the radio, but you might want to be sure about it first. You don't want to go getting the wrong controls, for example. If you can't find that out easily, just stick with getting parts from your specific year car...

[Rainbow1616]

Will Do

Thanks for all the great help:bigok:

[Rainbow1616]

Sorry to keep bothering you.
I finally found a steering wheel on ebay here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=009&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=190066753370&rd=1#ebayphotohosting

It is off a 2001, would it really fit a 2004???? I thought they were different? Would my existing air bag go right back in?
Thanks for all the help.

[MantaGreen97]

LOL I hardly call that bothering ;)

As for the wheel did it change anytime from 99-05? I'm not that familiar with the 5th gens. The one thing I am wondering (as I mentioned before) is if the wheel controls on Grand Ams ever change to Class 2 data or were they always resistance-ladder based?

The wheel looks to me to be the same physically as any 99+ wheel (again unless they changed it and I didn't know about that) so your current airbag should fit right in I would say.

If you'll notice in the pics, one of the cruise control button covers is indeed missing so you'll either have to use your old ones (if possible) or remove the button cover off your existing one and put it on that one (again if that's possible). Since you have a GT I'm assuming you have cruise.

[MantaGreen97]

Okay, I just took a quick look at Soundgate's site and it does appear that Grand Ams are listed for the same application for 96-05 models so it appears all steering wheel controls in all GAs were resistance-ladder type so going off that info, as long as the wheel looks the same as yours it should be compatible.

[Rainbow1616]

Yes my cruise buttons along the bottom are identical, I figured I can just use them or worst case just the button.
I would still need the clock spring then and I'd be all set right?
The color may be a little different its hard to tell but I can live with that or eventually get another air bag to match.

[MantaGreen97]

Yep the clockspring/coil will be needed. Your current one will only have wires for the airbag and cruise I believe. You'll need one with provisions for the wheel controls as well.

You will also need to either get the wiring connector/harness that goes from the stock HU to the end of the clockspring where the wheel controls wires come out. Or you can try to wire them up yourself, using a wiring diagram (only the pins on the radio are going to be male so you might need that connector end at the very least). I didn't need to bother with this as I just cut the end off the wires side of the clockspring and wired them up to power, ground, illumination, and adapter; but you will need to be able to connect it to the stereo so that harness would be the easiest way. You can probably get that either free or very cheaply at a wreckers I would imagine.

As for the colour I have no idea about that either--how many interior colours were there for the 5th gens? If there was only one darker colour (like grey or black) it's probably the same as yours and just looks different in the pictures...

[Rainbow1616]

Thanks, I just put a bid on it. If I have to I'll go buy the clockspring from Pontiac. Anywhere Online I can find one or maybe the part number?
Thanks for all the friendly help. :bigok:

[Rainbow1616]

Never mind I believe I found the part number 26096192. Looks like its special order 95 bucks delivered to my door from GM parts direct. Ill call around to a few junk yards first see if I can locate one cheaper.

[MantaGreen97]

One note about the coil "kit" part numbers. That number is probably the coil kit number. The kit includes the following things, the coil, the box and a small instructions sheet, LOL. Honestly that's all there is to the "kit". The coil itself will have a slightly different part number printed on the label of the coil, so don't be too alarmed if you get a coil from a yard that is supposed to be for your year/model but the part number doesn't match.

When you get a new coil it will be pre-centred and have a plastic break-off tab on it, so you can install it and break the tab and be all set. Coils coming from cars (i.e. used ones) will not have the tab so you will have to follow the centreing instructions. Note that the coil might be centred as there is still a spring lock on the coil to keep it centred once removed, but the tab may have been depressed somewhere along the way and the coil uncentred by the time you purchase it. Centreing the coil is quite easy though, if you need to do it.

[Rainbow1616]

Hmm sounds like I'll be asking more questions when I get everything:D

[Rainbow1616]

Ok I won the steering wheel and its on the way and I found a clock spring locally. They did not have the wiring harness however.
Do you have a part number or picture for the wiring harness or can I make my own somehow? schematic maybe? Thanks.

Hmm looking at the diagram in another section here it looks like only 2 wires connect from the radio to the clock spring for the radio controls.
All the other wires should be existing so I should only need to add these two correct? Looks like yellow and Lt green.

Sorry about hijacking your thread I should have started a new one.

Your car looks fantastic btw, I love the mods you did to the interior.

[MantaGreen97]

Hmm the part number I'm not sure really, but it should be easy for a dealer to look up, even if you don't purchase it from them.

I'm not sure how many wires there are on the 99+ to be honest but if you got the clockspring from a car with radio controls it should be explanatory from the connectors on the end...

On the "column side" of the clockspring/coil, there's going to be a yellow CPA-compatible 2-pin connector that is for the airbag. There should then be one or two other connectors. I'm not sure if it's going to be two or one because the 99+ had the cruise on the wheel as well (which previous cars had on a stalk instead).

The radio controls on 96-98s have four wires as I stated--power, ground, illumination and the control wire. Yellow and Lt. Green do ring a bell. Taking a look at my S/M it shows the yellow (on my year) is for the +12V feed from the RDO IGN fuse. The light green is the other side of the control wire which goes to the factory HU.

Think of the yellow and green wires as the "in and out" of the controls--the yellow puts +12V through the controls network (which goes through the resistance ladder when you press buttons), and then the other side of the buttons/resistances goes into the head unit for the remote controls.

It may be that you already have some of the same wires feeding the cruise control buttons which are already connected--i.e. the ground and illumination wires may feed both the cruise control and radio controls on the wheel and therefore only need to have one connection on the column side.

So yeah if you have illum. and ground going in there already, it sounds like you only need two wires for the radio controls.

[Rainbow1616]

Hey another dum question.
I got the steering wheel and it looks in great shape but the clock spring I went to get was damaged so I did not yet get that one.
What are the chances that the correct one would already be in there like an option in case you had the other wheel?? I don't mind buying a new one for 80 bucks but I know I can't take it back if I should pull it and find I don't need it.

[Brandon]

*i thought i was the only one that got a mini disc player (althouh mine is for home audio)

[MantaGreen97]

Originally posted by Rainbow1616
Hey another dum question.
I got the steering wheel and it looks in great shape but the clock spring I went to get was damaged so I did not yet get that one.
What are the chances that the correct one would already be in there like an option in case you had the other wheel?? I don't mind buying a new one for 80 bucks but I know I can't take it back if I should pull it and find I don't need it.
The chances are slim to none. I had originally thoght the same thing before I ever started looking into it. I figured that the clockspring would be the same for all cars with the additional wires there for the cars with the wheel controls. However this is not the case. I'm sure the clockspring with the additional wires only costs a few dollars more to manufacture, however if you multiply that by millions of vehicles that's a lot of money, lol.

So you're not going to have the wires there, I can almost guarantee it. For one thing if you look up the coil, you'll see there is one for w/ and one for w/o wheel controls, so that tells that story right there. There might be some remote possibility that your car got the controls clockspring if they ran out at the factory or something but that's definitely remote! You can check if you want, you just have to take the airbag out and see what wires are there and what the number is on the coil.

[MantaGreen97]

Originally posted by Brandon
*i thought i was the only one that got a mini disc player (althouh mine is for home audio)
LOL. I actually have over 20 MD units...

1 home audio deck, 4 portable recorders, ~16 portable players, the car unit (which I actually have three of, two are now non-working/parts units, lol), and one Hi-MD unit. To tell the truth I never really used the portables that much as I'm not that much of a headphones person but it just became a collection of sorts at some point in time, lol.

[Rainbow1616]

Ok I bit the bullet and bought a brand new closkspring. How do i safely take the airbag off a 2004? I looked under the steering wheel and theres no screws on the backside? Also the new wheel does not have any parts threaded that would be used for a wheel puller????So how do I take it all apart?Thanks.





Originally posted by MantaGreen97
The chances are slim to none. I had originally thoght the same thing before I ever started looking into it. I figured that the clockspring would be the same for all cars with the additional wires there for the cars with the wheel controls. However this is not the case. I'm sure the clockspring with the additional wires only costs a few dollars more to manufacture, however if you multiply that by millions of vehicles that's a lot of money, lol.

So you're not going to have the wires there, I can almost guarantee it. For one thing if you look up the coil, you'll see there is one for w/ and one for w/o wheel controls, so that tells that story right there. There might be some remote possibility that your car got the controls clockspring if they ran out at the factory or something but that's definitely remote! You can check if you want, you just have to take the airbag out and see what wires are there and what the number is on the coil.

[MantaGreen97]

Wow there's a good question! There have to be screws on the other side of the wheel somewhere, no? How does the bag mount to the wheel otherwise?

[honda-sux]

hey, Manta seenig how you got this set up you could probbaly answer this question.. How do you replace the tweeters on the doors?? and are they 1"....same goes with the door speakers are they 6 or 6.5" and do the after market grills just pop right in? or do you need to drill holes. already did my 6x9 but these look a bit tricky. appreciate it....... GO Leafs Go!

[Rainbow1616]

lol...thats what i'm trying to figure out.
I looked at it briefly on the way to dinner and felt around underneath. No holes anywhere. I only felt 1 screw under the center of the column below the steering wheel.
I'll take a better look tomorrow.


Sorry I started a new thread asking like I should have done in the first place. Didn't mean to crap on your thread....Sorry

[MantaGreen97]

Originally posted by honda-sux
hey, Manta seenig how you got this set up you could probbaly answer this question.. How do you replace the tweeters on the doors?? and are they 1"....same goes with the door speakers are they 6 or 6.5" and do the after market grills just pop right in? or do you need to drill holes. already did my 6x9 but these look a bit tricky. appreciate it....... GO Leafs Go!
The door tweeters on 96-98 cars are indeed 1 inch. They have their own mount system (the tweeter has three notches in it and the housing has three clips) but most aftermarket 1" tweeters will fit in there pretty well and work fine with the factory tweeter grilles (that are actually part of the housing). Usually you have to modify the inside of the housing a bit or figure out how to keep the tweeter in there nicely. You can actually just toss most tweeters in there and they'll stay though they might mis-angle over time if you don't secure them a bit better. Needless to say it's pretty easy to do/figure out.

When I used to have the Pioneer Premier components many years ago, I just removed the Pioneer grilles from the tweeters (so as not to have double-grilles) and positioned the tweeters in the housing and they stayed in there pretty good. However I learned the hard way that grille-less tweeters are pretty easy to physically damage when you're doing other work on the door (and pop the tweeter panel out), lol. Anyway other than that it worked out fine.

When I switched to the Focal front comp set, Focal uses 1.5" tweeters so they were too large to fit in the housing. So I drilled out the housing and used the Focal tweeter cups installed in there. Had to glue them in though. I never really learned how to fiberglass stuff or I would have fiberglassed them into the housings instead (which would have looked prettier) but what I did works well so it's fine that way.

If you stick to component sets with 1" tweeters it will be a lot easier though.

As for the door speaker grilles, I still have my factory ones on. Note that the way the door grilles mount they must be removed from the inside of the door panel. Do NOT attempt to pry these off from the inside of the car; instead, remove the door panel first. When you remove the door panel you'll see the four little black discs that retain the grille on the other side. What you do is simply unscrew them as you would a nut and the grille comes off the door panel.

The tricky part about changing them to aftermarket grilles is that they don't mount the same. Most aftermarket grilles mount to the speaker basket, not the door panel. Also the size is larger than most 6.5" grilles--you'll need speaker grilles from 6.75" speakers to do the job. The four holes will line up properly with most 6.75" speaker grilles, but then you'll have to figure out how to mount it securely to the door panel (I'd imagine small, short screws/bolts and nuts would do the job, or something similar).

PS: Oh yeah and I actually hate the Leafs, hahaha :lol:

[honda-sux]

THANX!!! :)