Window problems help!

[FalconXtreme]

hey so over a year my windows on my 97 4dr gt have gone completely to crap. my driver side window completely doesn't work any more. my front pass window only works sometimes and when it does work it goes really slow. most of the time it goes really slow and then stops working when its rolling up. it'll continue going up after you leave it alone for a while and come back to it. my two rear pass windows work right now but go really slow both up and down. does anyone know what this could be? please let me know. thanks!

[Rockfan1815]

bad motors, switches or even a bad ground or connection somewhere. Run a test, remove the switch panel and directly connect the motor to a 12v sourse and see how quick it moves. In my 94 blazer the window motor was going and only worked sometimes and when it did it worked really slow, replaced the motor and it worked fine. As for your problem, all the windows are moving slowly, so it sounds like a bad connection. Check all wires and connections, see what you find.

[Lowizle37]

if your like me, and like to roll with the windows down, then the motors are prolly shot....just have them replaced, front 2 first and back ones last....i mainly just use the front 2, so my backs still work perfect

[carlover626]

www.1aauto.com
Try this place out for a replacement, I have had a good experiance with my driver side replacement. Looking to do the Pass. if I choose to keep my car (see "Condensation" thread).

[rixGAphx]

Intermittent/lousy performance is often a case of poor GM design/inadequate 'special' attention that we need to do to make up for their lousy design.
Try the following:

Complete 'service' of the power window.
There was a significant change in the GA power windows in '99; the old-style were 'scissors-action', the 99+ are a kinda ’rolling plastic chain’ mechanism.

Service:
1. Remove door handle panel (two phillips-head screws in the bottom of the 'hand grip'), and twist aside.
2. Unplug and replug the connector from the window switch(es). The pins corrode and get 'gunky', so they need to be cleaned for EXCELLENT contact (when the window is partly-open, roof drainage water drips right onto the switches, and corrodes the pins and such). Mebbe even clean the contacts with toothpicks, or a metal dental pick. Use a little household rubbing alcohol and cotton Q-tips to dissolve the gunk.
This alone may give you enough power to solve the problem.
3. Lube the vertical tracks, using spray silicone (don't use WD-40, oil, or grease). This will provide long-term lubrication yet won't smear when you wash the window like petroleum products will.

The above steps may reduce the resistance enough to solve the problem, and you can stop right here if things work well.
Otherwise, continue:
4. Now for the tough stuff, inside the door:
5. Remove the door panel (careful of the screw behind the reflector), and use a special 'trim removal tool' to pop the plastic fasteners loose. You'll *prolly* break a few, but replacements are available for a couple $$ in the HELP! section of Checker/AutoZone/etc.
Also be EXTREMELY careful of the mechanical side-view mirror adjustment knob (pre-'99)!!. The little plastic grommet canNOT be removed, it just BREAKS!!! Every Pontiac dealer body shop has a box of these little f'ers under the counter, about $3 each (I buy 2 each time, 'cuz I'm clumsy :D ).
You can prevent breakage: With the door open, you can kinda rotate/pivot the panel onto the outside of the roof/windshield so it's out of the way, with the cable still attached. Tape the panel in place.
6. Remove the plastic weather barrier; it must be reinstalled, so try not to tear it.
7. With the window up, look at the operating mechanism:
* Pre-‘99 were 'scissors' mechanism. Lots of things that slide and roll and rotate, and many prolly have rust.
* ‘99+ are a kind of ’rolling plastic chain’ mechanism with fewer parts that move or rust. They also have the infamous 'plastic clips' at the bottom that break easily (replacements also available from the 'HELP!' section).

Use Naval Jelly to dissolve the rust, then rinse and allow to dry. You may have to sand/steel wool some items.
This mechanism is never gonna look pretty; your goal is simply to lube the things that move.
Apply moly-based wheel bearing grease to the tracks, and every other moving thing you can.
Apply heavy oil (engine oil, like 10W30) to all the rollers and pivots that you couldn't grease (don't use light machine oil like 3-in-1).
Do NOT use WD-40 as a lube!! It is mostly solvent, and won't provide the long-term lubing that you need.
8. Look at the rear of the mechanism. On the pre-‘99’s, there is one screw or bolt where it attaches to the door structure. This has a small amount of adjustment (to allow the window to rise parallel with the track). This bolt loosens over time, so adjust the glass as needed and tighten the screw (maybe a bolt, I don't really remember). I dunno if the 99+’s have this bolt or not.
9. Reconnect the switches, and test everything before buttoning-up.
* Everything should work pretty well.
* If it doesn't, then it's time for a new motor, and/or regulator.
10. Reinstall the weather barrier plastic, using black goop and lots of duct tape to reduce wind leakage thru the door-handle slot.
11. Reinstall panel and handle panel.

OKAY.
You've now returned the entire window assembly to about 80% of the *new* condition.

Hope this helps.
-Rick

PS: Once or twice a year, service the switches (driver and passenger sides) by unplugging/replugging the socket to reduce the effects of corrosion.

[FalconXtreme]

i hate to bump this old thread but i did pretty much all those steps and the samething is still happening. i think its my driver side master switch thats out bc if i press the driver window button juuuuuuuuuuust right then it goes up and down like a charm.