another problem

[go5]

So after I fixed my recent starting issue I drove my car to work this morning...

I noticed when I was on the highway doing around 110 km/h the engine seemed to be "convulsing" or sputtering really lightly every so often for about a second or so. Off the highway when I was stopped at a light it got noticeably worse and the RPM's was below 1 and dropping slightly every time it "sputtered". It seemed like it was going to die any second but it didn't.

Any ideas?

Thanks

[SE2000]

Check under the hood to see if any wires came loose or a leaky air box

[Jchiasson]

What would seem odd to me is the fact it was idleing at 1000 RPMs. Was the engine completely warmed up at this time. In my experience an automatic should idle around 650, and a manual at around 750. Wonder if a temp sensor (IAS) or the like is going.

[go5]

Originally posted by SE2000
Check under the hood to see if any wires came loose or a leaky air box

Do you mean the air filter housing?

[rabidpanda69]

Check to make sure all hoses and electrical connections under the hood are tight.

[SE2000]

Originally posted by go5
Do you mean the air filter housing?

That and the hose between it and the engine

[rixGAphx]

You don't indicate that the 'Check Engine' light came 'on', so there prolly aren't any stored codes associated with this stuttering.

Nearly every electrical/electronic/sensor problem on GA engines will set a code with the computer.
Two systems that DON'T set codes are fuel pressure/volume, and vacuum.

Engine stuttering that's noticeably worse at idle is a classic symptom of a vacuum leak in the intake manifold.
Since the engine is set to run rich during 'open-loop' mode (when cold-started), the problem is being masked until the engine warms and the computer switches to 'closed-loop'.

I would examine all the vac hoses, devices, and connections; don't forget the little vac reservoir under the battery.
With the engine running, you can spray some 'Winter Starting Fluid' at vac points; if the fluid is drawn-in to the engine at a leak, the engine rpm will ride and smooth out.

Good luck,
-Rick

[go5]

Originally posted by rixGAphx
You don't indicate that the 'Check Engine' light came 'on', so there prolly aren't any stored codes associated with this stuttering.

With the engine running, you can spray some 'Winter Starting Fluid' at vac points; if the fluid is drawn-in to the engine at a leak, the engine rpm will ride and smooth out.

Good luck,
-Rick

Actually this whole thing started when my car would not start the other day (separate post). I got it started after using the 'quick start' and after I got it going the check engine light did come one, I drove it to my mechanics and after I got there the check engine light went off so I figured it had something to do with the 'quick start' I used.

The RPM's are actually idling at around 650 or so but it fluctuates with the sputtering that is happening, it doesn't fluctuate much and at the worst dip it goes to about 500.

Thanks for the help

[stock_am]

I heard bad things about quick start, and its known to cause major engine demage. i would personally stay away from that product. As for your problem it might be a fuel pressure regulator which can also casue a vacuum leak.

[echoicse]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by go5
[B]Actually this whole thing started when my car would not start the other day (separate post). I got it started after using the 'quick start' and after I got it going the check engine light did come one, I drove it to my mechanics and after I got there the check engine light went off so I figured it had something to do with the 'quick start' I used.

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go5, when you posted on 30 Dec 06, "starting issue" a bunch of us did communicate to you... didn't think about this until now. You could have bought bad fuel from the service station-water in their storage tanks. This happened to me once when I had a Oldsmobile,bought fuel from Noco gas sta.-had water in it,a mile from sta. eng. sputtering then went completely dead...winter time...injectors froze and Noco paid $$$$ and I wasn't the only victim that day! So, when you can drive the car till fuel tank reads empty,fill it up and add fuel additive (Lucas has a great product-lubes injectors also). Try it and if it doesn't work follow nxGAphx advice.

[TAGS]

I believe that the "water in gas" problem would have thrown a code. I once experienced the SAME symptoms you are describing and it was because I was working on my car one time and needed to run to the store. I just threw on the airbox cover and didn't tighten it down. Once I got home I tightened it and I've never had a problem since. Strongly suspect a leak somewhere.

Conley

[echoicse]

Originally posted by TAGS
I believe that the "water in gas" problem would have thrown a code. I once experienced the SAME symptoms you are describing and it was because I was working on my car one time and needed to run to the store. I just threw on the airbox cover and didn't tighten it down. Once I got home I tightened it and I've never had a problem since. Strongly suspect a leak somewhere.

Conley
I understand what your saying w/throwing a code,but you also have to do diagnosis on that problem that arose. And it might w/ the code # not be the true symptom of the root cause.

[rixGAphx]

When the SES light goes 'off', that indicates the problem condition has gone away, at least for the moment.

But even after the SES light goes 'off', the computer ALWAYS remembers what code was bothering it.
It stores that code for 30 on-off cycles of the ignition, so you or your mechanic can always plug-in a scanner and retrieve the data about the prior conditions.

The data remains there for 30 'cycles, or until the battery is disconnected for 10+ minutes, or until the person with the scanner punches the 'erase' button.

If it hasn't been 30 cycles, you could go to AutoZone/Checker/etc. and scan that prior code.
Might give you a starting point for the present problem.

Good luck,
-Rick