pan gasket leak

[honda-sux]

I seem to have a small oil pan gasket leak, I've been told that there are additives that will actually solve the problem. just wanna know some products that you guys would suggest...

[4kQuad]

None:
You may just be able to tighten the bolts on the bottom of the pan a bit and solve the problem.

I say None because you always want the oil to move as free and smooth as possible. Adding stuff to thicken it up or plug holes in the long run is just plan bad on motors.

But then I don't belive in adding crap to the raditor to clog leaks either.

[bballr4567]

Get a new gasket at your next oil change and drain out all the oil and put in a new gasket. Sure its only small but you never know when itll turn into a huge leak.

[MantaGreen97]

Originally posted by bballr4567
Get a new gasket at your next oil change and drain out all the oil and put in a new gasket. Sure its only small but you never know when itll turn into a huge leak.

LOL, that's a little easier said than done, since he has a 3100. The oil pan on the 3100/3400 is structural and a huge PITA to remove.

[coupe]

You positive this is your problem?
3100/3400 are notorious for the oil drive shaft o-ring to fail which causes a small leak that appears to be coming from the oil pan.

[bballr4567]

Originally posted by MantaGreen97
LOL, that's a little easier said than done, since he has a 3100. The oil pan on the 3100/3400 is structural and a huge PITA to remove. Ohhhhh didnt know that. Looked like to me you can just take it off last time I was under the car. I guess Ill look at it again when I change the oil next time.

[MantaGreen97]

^Haha... There's a LOT involved... Here are most of the steps, abbreviated, from the S/M

1. Disconnect neg. batt.
2. Remove drive belt
3. Loosen A/C compressor bolts, do not remove bolts
4. Raise/support vehicle
5. Drain crankcase
6. Remove right front tyre
7. Remove right front splash shield
8. Remove Engine mount strut from susp. support.
9. Remove right front ABS wheel speed sensor harness
10. Remove right front ball joint.
11. Remove right front stabiliser link.
12. Remove right side suspension support. (This is like the subframe, lol)
13. Remove lower A/C compressor bolts.
14. Position A/C comp aside
15. Remove engine mount strut bracket
16. Remove engine-to-transmission brace.

LOL. This list goes on for another 4 steps before you even get to loosening the oil pan bolts. You're basically dismantling the right hand suspension, removing the engine mounts, A/C compressor, and starter motor before you even get to touch the oil pan...

Definitely not a fun job ;)

[honda-sux]

So additives to seal the leaks are totally out????

I'm a body guy.

When it comes to stuff like this forget about can't do it my self. the leak doesnt seem all that bad, and I know that this is not like changing the trans gasket so How much do guys think I'll end up spending??????

[rixGAphx]

Originally posted by honda-sux
So additives to seal the leaks are totally out?
1. Generally, they are frowned upon by every respectable mechanic.
That includes Colin, SE2000, Old Guy, and many others here.
Does NOT include me and pokesmot :D :D

2. However, with a '97 V6 GA that prolly has about 120k miles on it, what's to lose??

3. Several of the 'Oil Leak Stoppers' are based on proven technology that 'restores' the flexibility to old rubber seals and gaskets, without damaging the lubricating capabilities of the oil system.
So it's not some 'goop' that's gonna gum-up other parts of the oil system.
Marvel Mystery Oil is prolly the 'gold standard' of these products.

* * *
Personally, I don't think it's the 'oil pan gasket' that's leaking.
The pan itself is mated to the block at the exact centerline of the crankshaft.
The oil level is about 3 inches below the gasket; oil just splashes against (and drips down across) the gasket, but there's no oil pressure to force the oil outward.
At each end, the oil pan curves low to provide room for the end bearings, and the timing chain cover (at the engine 'front') requires a very special seal since it IS below the oil level. This is more prone to leakage, since it's continuall bathed in oil.

You don't state the location of the stain or drip, but I'll bet it's at one end.

It might even be the front (or rear) main seal which is leaking, and these leaks are MUCH more common than an oil pan leak.
They are each about a '6' to repair, and about $25 in parts.
A main seal replacement on any engine is no fun, but it's much easier than a pan R&R on the GA's V6.

When it comes to stuff like this, forget about can't do it my self.
The leak doesn't seem all that bad, and I know that this is not like changing the trans gasket.
I would clean the underside of the engine to near-spotless condition, and start parking over a clean piece of cardboard in the EXACT same place every evening.
That would help determine the exact source of the leak, and thus the necessary corrective action.

Just for reference:
Do you know why the British never manufactured televisions?
They couldn't get them to drip oil. :D :D

Seriously, EVERY british car ever made, with the exception of most Rolls Royces, leaked oil from day one.
There are 40-yr old Jaguar XKE's that sell at auction for $90+k, and they leak a quart every 1000 miles!!

So you can live with this leak forever, as long as you keep the oil level topped-off.

How much do guys think I'll end up spending? At this time:
* Clean the underside of the engine: Free.
* Sheet of cardboard: Free (dumpster diving).
* Marvel Mystery Oil: $5.

In 18 to 24 months:
* $1200 for a complete, DIY engine rebuild.
* Start budgeting now and you'll be fine.

Hope this helps,
-Rick