2003 GA Not Starting Sometimes

[rudy]

Hey, I searched for posts related to my problem but I wasn't able to find anything that seemed to apply. Here's my problem. Sometimes (usually in really cold weather) my car won't start. It doesn't even try to turn over. I turn the key in the ignition and I can hear a pump (fuel pump?) for a second or two, but that's it... the car won't start. If I sit in it and keep trying to start it sometimes it will start... no problem at all. All the accessories and dash lights work fine. Here's what I've tried:

- tested my battery with a load tester... it turns out that the battery is borderline-weak.

- cleaned all the contacts on the solinoid and battery.

- jumped the solinoid to check the starter... the starter seemed to run no problems.

- checked for a voltage to the solinoid when the key is turned in the ignition... no voltage (when the car starts I do get an instantaneous reading on my meter).

- swapped my ignition relay with a cooling fan relay... didn't make any difference.

So I put in a brand new battery yesterday. The car actually started after I did this. Today the car wouldn't start (it's a little colder today than it was yesterday). Tomorrow who knows whether it will start or not.

About a year ago my key wouldn't even turn in the ignition. I had to get it fixed and I believe they said they had to drill out the ignition cylinder... I'm starting to wonder if this has something to do with it.

Can anyone shed some light on what might be going on? I'm completely at a loss and I'm really getting frustrated.

Thanks in advance!

Kurt Roach

[coupe]

Is your security light on/blinking?

[SE2000]

Does your car respond if you jump it?
I would think you have an ignition switch problem. It would be good to test this when the car starts and when it doesn't

[rudy]

Originally posted by coupe
Is your security light on/blinking?

I believe the security light comes on, but it definately isn't blinking. Were you going to suggest that my key isn't being recognized? The GM mechanic mentioned this to me, but it isn't the problem.

Kurt

[rudy]

Originally posted by SE2000
Does your car respond if you jump it?
I would think you have an ignition switch problem. It would be good to test this when the car starts and when it doesn't

Nope it doesn't help. I've tried boosting it from another car, a battery boosting tool, and I've even left the battery charger on all night in some cases.

How would I check the ignition switch?

Kurt

[SE2000]

You need to see if power is feeding the starting/running circuits. you can remove the radio to get to the switch

[rudy]

Just an update on my problem. Last night I left the key in the On position and jumped the solenoid. The car started without hesitation. This morning I took the car into the GM dealership and one of their mechanics was nice enough to have a quick look at it. So after explaining my problem, the symptoms, and everything I had tried, the mechanic tried a few things. He told me that it looks like my Neutral Safety Switch was probably freezing up when it's cold. He also said if it isn't that, then it's the computer.

So now I guess my project for the weekend is to replace the NSN. Thanks for taking the time to help out! I'm definately going to start visiting this board regularly!

Kurt

[maximumcanon]

Had this problem with the 97. Changed the start and battery. Turned out to be the Starter relay. It needed a better grounding. On the 97, it is located on the radiator support. took it off, cleaned it up for better grounding contact and all i have to do is touch the key and the car starts right up. Check that before you go buying a ton of new parts. I felt really stupid when I figured it out after having spent money on the other stuff.

[SE2000]

The switch may be your problem. it's yellow wire in, purple wire out. You coud try jumpering that instead of at the starter. Forgot to mention, did you try starting your car in neutral? Also try jiggling the shifter like it was a toilet. If that always work, it is your Neutral safety switch. It's not the computer.

[rudy]

Originally posted by SE2000
The switch may be your problem. it's yellow wire in, purple wire out. You coud try jumpering that instead of at the starter. Forgot to mention, did you try starting your car in neutral? Also try jiggling the shifter like it was a toilet. If that always work, it is your Neutral safety switch. It's not the computer.

Yeah I tried starting it in Neutral, and I tried "going crazy" on my shifter on multiple occasions. It never helped.

Kurt

[rixGAphx]

Might be your ignition switch again, especially considering the problems you had previously.
But before going to that hassle/expense, I'm a bit concerned about your statement "... cleaned all the contacts on the solenoid and battery."

Since you didn't quote my copyrighted instructions, you might not have adequately addressed the battery cables themsleves; specifically inside the molded rubber boots as highlighted below.
The inadvertent finaggling you've done with the cables (by changing batteries or jumping the solenoid) may have been re-making/un-making a fragile connection within the boots.

So here's the drill:
GA Batt Cable Service

Battery cable ends must be clean and tight and shiny bright.
Even the best new alternator and the best new battery can't provide adequate power (volts and amps) if the connections are so dirty/loose/corroded that power doesn't flow thru them.
Bad connections will also kill both the alternator and the battery very quickly.

So, inspect/clean/repair/replace/tighten both ends of both cables to provide maximum flow of electrical power.
Disconnect cables: NEG (Black) first, then POS (Red).
Cut the molded rubber boots from the battery connections, since water seeps thru them and corrodes the copper wire into useless powder.
(This step is VERY important and often ignored.
You can't just examine the outsides and think, "They look alright".)
I went thru a couple alternators and several batteries before I discovered this weakness of the GM sidepost batteries.

Dissolve corrosion with a paste solution of baking soda and water, applied with an old toothbrush.
Coca-cola can also be used :eek:
Scrape/sand/wire-brush all the metal (cable ends and batt terminals) to shiny metal.

Pay attention to the Body Ground: This is a smaller Black (Neg) wire that comes from the battery terminal and attaches directly to the bodywork, somewhere near the left (Driver) side hood edge. This is a source of rust, and must be kept clean and shiny.

Reconnect cables: POS (Red) first, then NEG (Black); this is OPPOSITE of the way you disconnected them.
Replace the cut-off boots with new aftermarket slip-on rubber boots to protect against short-circuiting while allowing for future inspection and service.

Weird things happen to GA's when the cables aren't in pristine shape.
It's necessary and cheap (or even free!), so there's no downside to servicing them immediately.

Good luck.
-Rick

PS: If you aren't using a winter oil like 5w-20, then a thicker oil requires more battery power to crank the engine and pump the cold oil.