Dash Lights On

[HighSpeed]

Hello everyone. I haven't been on the site much, our '04 GA has been very good, we bought it new. Anyways, I just wanted to post this Q while I do a search on my prob.

The prob I have is, I was cruising home with traffic going the speed limit. Then I hear the chime, then the ABS, Service Engine Soon and Traction Off lights came on while I was still driving.

We've never had probs since we bought this new until today, can anyone shed some light on this? While I wait for some help, I"ll do a search.

Thanks!

[rixGAphx]

:welcome:
Since you're new to Problems and Solutions, you're prolly unaware that my patented 'first post' is gonna tell you to service your battery cables.
I get a lot of flak for that, but in your case doing so will prolly solve your problem.

* The GA's electrical system is very picky about adequate battery power to the electronic systems, particularly the ABS.
* If the ABS's little brain thinks there *might* not be adequate power in case of an emergency, it will shut itself 'off' and illuminate its icon.
since the Traction Control system gets its speed signals from the ABS sensors, it is also turned off automatically.
* At 3 years old, your factory battery is about at the end of its life, so that might be the problem. It doesn't matter if the battery label says "84 months" or such, 3 years is the most to expect.
A battery that has been totally discharged (like leaving the lights on overnight) will lose about 10% of its ability to recharge EVERY TIME it totally drains.
Eventually, the alternator will kill itself, by continuously trying to overcharge a battery that can't be charged.
* The SES light indicates a problem with the engine/tranny/emissions system, and this is NOT generally a problem of low electrical power.
* * If the SES light is 'solid', then the problem is relatively minor but should be addressed within the week.
* * If the SES light is 'flashing', the problem is severe enough that something expensive (often the catalytic converter) will soon be damaged, so immediate attention is necessary.
* * *

First, go to Checker/AutoZone/etc. and have them plug their hand-held scanner into the OBD-II port (OnBoard Diagnostics - Generation 2), located on the underside of the dash above driver's right knee.
They will download the codes from the Powertrain Control Module, GM's name for the engine-tranny 'puter).
Do NOT buy whatever part(s) may be indicated by the code(s), since the problem itself may be elsewhere.
Report back here with the exact number of the codes, and we'll discuss the next steps.

Second, do the Battery Cable Service.
Doing so erases the PCM stored codes (when you disconnect the battery cable for more than 10 minutes), so have the codes scanned first.

Check your entire charging system: Alternator, Battery, and,........
BATTERY CABLES/CONNECTIONS:

GA Batt Cable Service

Battery cable ends must be clean and tight and shiny bright.
Even the best new alternator and the best new battery can't provide adequate power (volts and amps) if the connections are so dirty/loose/corroded that power doesn't flow thru them.
Bad connections will also kill both the alternator and the battery very quickly.

So, inspect/clean/repair/replace/tighten all THREE ends of both cables to provide maximum flow of electrical power.
Disconnect cables: NEG (Black) first, then POS (Red).
Cut the molded rubber boots from the battery connections, since water seeps thru them and corrodes the copper wire into useless powder.
(This step is VERY important. You can't just look at the outside and think, "They look alright".)

Dissolve corrosion with a paste solution of baking soda and water, applied with an old toothbrush.
Scrape/sand/wire-brush all the metal (cable ends and batt terminals) to shiny metal.
In an emergency, Coca-Cola poured over the corrosion will partially-clean it.

Pay attention to the Body Ground: This is a smaller Black (Neg) wire that comes from the battery terminal and attaches directly to the bodywork, somewhere near the left (Driver) side hood edge. This is a source of rust, and must be kept clean and shiny. (This is the ‘3rd end’ of the NEG cable.)
The POS cable has a ‘3rd end’ that connects inside the Main Junction Box, about 12 inches from the battery.

Reconnect cables: POS (Red) first, then NEG (Black); this is OPPOSITE of the way you disconnected them.
Replace the cut-off boots with new aftermarket slip-on rubber boots to protect against short-circuiting while allowing for future inspection and service.
* * *
Still having trouble? Verify that the heavy cable from the alternator, around the back of the engine and connecting to the starter solenoid, has good connections and conductivity. The alternator can't charge the battery if this cable is bad.

Weird things happen to GA's when the cables aren't in pristine shape.
ABS is a particularly sensitive system, and will often show a random 'ABS' light though nothing else appears to be wrong.

Battery cable/connection service is necessary and cheap (or even free), so there's no downside to servicing them immediately.

Good luck.
-Rick

[HighSpeed]

Thanks for the infos.

I've tried those already, still had the same problem. So I decided to drop the car off the dealer, my wife bought the extended warranty, its covered for the total of 5 yrs or 75 k miles, which ever comes first.

What the dealer found was, that one of the wheel bearings was bad and causing the three dash lights to come on. They replaced the bearing and hub assembly, for the cost of the deductible. Got the car back in a day. My guess was, either one of the ABS sensors was bad.

Thanks for helping out though!

[SpoCom2nr]

Originally posted by HighSpeed
Thanks for the infos.

I've tried those already, still had the same problem. So I decided to drop the car off the dealer, my wife bought the extended warranty, its covered for the total of 5 yrs or 75 k miles, which ever comes first.

What the dealer found was, that one of the wheel bearings was bad and causing the three dash lights to come on. They replaced the bearing and hub assembly, for the cost of the deductible. Got the car back in a day. My guess was, either one of the ABS sensors was bad.

Thanks for helping out though!

I guess this is a really common problem then... So my car is going up to the dealership on monday at 5 guys for the same exact problem. I tried the battery thing... And I made sure to put the rust and corrosion spray on it to help against the problem.

[SpoCom2nr]

Can any of the moderators make this a sticky? I think it'll be very useful and will prevent others from posting the same thing over and over again. This seems like a very common problem and at least 3 people have made topics about it... Thank you moderators.