View Full Version : Upper Strut Tower Bearing
jcob00
03-13-2007, 05:48 PM
Has anyone changed this bearing on a 03 ?
The machanic wants like $600 to change this and was wondering how hard could it be to change ?
ancona46
03-19-2007, 06:13 PM
take the struts and upper mounts off and replace it its easy...its cake if u have air wrench
rixGAphx
03-19-2007, 07:04 PM
Well, it sure isn't worth $600, even for both.
Though it's more complex than jcob00 indicates, since you also need to rent a spring compressor as a part of the 'remove the struts' procedure.
Mebbe 1.5 hrs each side, therefore 3 hours at $80, plus about $25 each for the bearing plates; mebbe $370 + $50 for an alignment (prolly not necessary, but he could insist that his work isn't guaranteed without one).
Your '03, at 4 years old/50k miles, shouldn't need struts yet.
Most of us just live with the creaking/groaning of the cracked bearing plates until the struts DO need replacing.
Or it's a good excuse to upgrade to some performance struts/lowering springs.
But $900 is outrageous IMO.
Find somebody else.
Or, with a Haynes manual and basic handtools, plus the rental spring compressor, this would be a great DIY first-timer/learner project.
Good luck,
-Rick
pokesmot
03-19-2007, 09:00 PM
if you decide to do this yourself; just a suggestion for safety.
if you get a spring compression tool, you will notice that there are 2 or 3 hooks that clasp the sides of the coil spring. once you get the tool setup, use vicegrips to lock the coil spring onto the forks, so that the fork doesnt slip out, or the coil spring doesnt unwind while you compress it.
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I agree with the others... $600 is pretty insane.
if you wanna save some cash, your best bet is to take the struts off the car (dont forget to mark left and right sides) and bring them into a shop off car and have them done. should only charge no more than 1.5 hours labor for the pair.
use a center punch and mark your camber bolts before removing them so you can line your camber up the same when you put everything back together... you also might want to get an allignment after because your camber might change slightly.
coupe
03-20-2007, 06:42 AM
You can easily do this yourself:
http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=68619
ancona46
03-20-2007, 03:09 PM
theres no way it takes 1.5 hours for one side it takes me about 30 mins to get the strut off and that include jacking it up
pokesmot
03-20-2007, 04:51 PM
Originally posted by ancona46
theres no way it takes 1.5 hours for one side it takes me about 30 mins to get the strut off and that include jacking it up
1.5 per side to remove struts, disassemble, reassemble and reinstall.
thats still a fairly good deal considering the dangers involved compressing the coil spring.
ancona46
03-20-2007, 07:23 PM
didn't seem too dangerous to me...i did use a spring compressor
pokesmot
03-20-2007, 07:30 PM
Originally posted by ancona46
didn't seem too dangerous to me...i did use a spring compressor
you've obviously never had a spring snap on you then :lol:
even with all the right tools and equipment, and know how; if the spring has a weakness it could snap while being compressed resulting in serious injury.
SE2000
03-23-2007, 07:33 AM
Quickstruts, $200 each and aligment is the easiest way for someone inexpiernced to try this
whats the diff between putting new strut mounts and a strut tower bearing?
dajuiceman
04-11-2007, 08:08 PM
i'm with arcona on this one. I just put on new springs and struts on my ga and it took about 45 mins per side including taking tires off and remounting them. It was also my first time ever doing struts at least on a grand am. Probably the easiest car to do struts on.
jcob00
04-20-2007, 10:07 PM
Well been looking in to and thx for all your replys guys.
Just another thing with all the creaking and moaning that these have been doing on all your cars. You ever notice your stearing getting tighter and there being like more strang sounds when the wheel is cranked harder in either direction ?
Also when u change 1 sould you change both...? Thx again...
rixGAphx
04-21-2007, 03:55 PM
Originally posted by jcob00
You ever notice your stearing getting tighter and there being like more strang sounds when the wheel is cranked harder in either direction?Strut bearing plates have their own creaks and groans.
Once they start, they pretty much stay that way.
The cracks in the bearing plates don't affect the springs or the steerng, and they don't cause additional noises.
What you describer (steering that is heavier and makes ist own noises as the wheel is turned) sounds more like a problem with the steering itself, either the pump or the rack.
Fix the strut bearing plates.
These steering-related effects will still be there, and you can then proceed to diagnose/repair them.
Also when u change 1 strut bearing plate, should you change both?If you had a Porsche and wanted super-precise handling and balance under all conditions, then you would change everything in pairs.
But you have a Grand Am, and the strut bearing plates (cracked or not) have very little effect on the handling.
Truly, if you can live with the noise, you can leave them cracked forever and they won't matter.
So, if one has many cracks and makes a lot of noises, and the other very little or any noise, its perfectly alright to leave the less-obnoxious one alone for now (or for 6 months, or 6 years).
However, since you will already have rented a spring compressor for the day, why not spend the additional $30 and 2 hours to do the other.
Then you won't have to worry if those steering quirks are the other plate, or the pump, or the rack, or ......?
Good luck,
-Rick
jcob00
10-18-2007, 03:21 PM
Thx guys just getting back to you...
I changed them out both sides and took 45 mins total....
Just did a straight swap like 6 bolts in total and away we went..
mattcow
10-22-2007, 05:27 AM
For future reference, you can use nylon straps to tie the coils while the weight is still on the tire\suspension instead of a spring compressor. Once you jack the car up, the straps keep the coil spring from expanding and you can easily remove the whole spring/strut assembly. This is safer than a spring compressor, but the downside is that you can't use this technique if you want to change your coil spring.
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