All-Aluminum Radiator

[DontPassTheFence]

So after bypassing myheater core, long story short - I upped the pressure unexpectedly - And just last week the plastic side of the radiator (driverside) formed a few cracks and just pissed coolant all over my engine bay. So in an attempt to lower temps and regain a bit more volume in my cooling system, and fix my shitty broken rad, I decided on a performance replacement - a heavy duty rad of sorts.

The problem is I can not exactly find any heavy duty or performance-type radiators for this engine ... nor the 2.3L

http://www.radiatorexpress.com says they have an ALL-ALUMINUM construction rad - this meaning it would replace the driver-side plastic tunnel with an aluminum one? Since we all know GA radiators are made of both plastic and aluminum I was wondering if this is for real or not.

If I'm going about this wrong or if you guys know a good rad dealer, let me know - I'd like to order or pickup a radiator on MONDAY so I can get this car fixed (again) by wednesday. (since I have class on tues. night there is no way Id have enough time to fix it then)

[DontPassTheFence]

I forgot the direct link -- http://www.radiatorexpress.com/product.asp?part=1997+PONTIAC+GRAND+AM+GT+%2D+2%2E 4+liter+L4+RADIATOR+All+Aluminum+Performance+Repla cement&part_id=218166&aaia_id=1253179

[DontPassTheFence]

So I guess you 30 guys that viewed this had no clue, huh? T-T damn it all, I wonder if Rob has any clues.

[tenspeed]

I doubt that you increased the pressure by eliminating the heater core. The pressure is regulated to 15 psi by the radiator cap.

When my '96 radiator started leaking I replaced it with a $100 rebuilt rad.

[DontPassTheFence]

thats the thing, the rad. didnt crack until AFTER I replaced the coolant reservior cap. The previous cap was leaking at bit since the old rubber gasket on the inside was destroyed and thusly not making a good seal. So I bought a new 15PSI cap for like 5bux, then it cracked. The supposed 'all-aluminum' rad comes in today, I found it for 140$ overnight-shipped, not so bad, Id say. Ill take pics once it arrives. I also got a JY heater core for 10$ -- Ill leak test that little guy BEFORE I install it XD (well actually Im going to leak test both parts before installation just to be sure.)

[DontPassTheFence]

well just got it buttoned back up tonight - the new rad is all aluminum to my amazement, and it fit like a glove. I even replaced the heater core while I was at it (omfg the screws to open up the heater core box under the dash are nearly impossible to get to, thank you GM :( )

But its all good and runs about 10F cooler, woo hoo. I tested for electrolysis, and Ive got .11v coming from the coolant when the engine is on, perfectly safe/normal!! Its all good. Now Im just here wondering, what is the next thing Ill have to fix on this bastard car XD

New engine, check
New trans, check
New rad, check
New rear axle, check
New front suspension, check
New wheel hub assemblies, check
New control arms, check
New sway bar endlinks, check
New inner trans. seals, check
New injector o-rings, check
New front rotors, check
New misc interior parts, check
New thermostat, check
New ebrake cable and retention brackets, check
New fuel line at the fuel filter outlet, check
New foglamp housings, check
New rear suspension, check
New trunk wiring, check
New motor mounts, check
New transmission mount, check (yes the BIG one)
New tie-rod ends, check
New A/C compressor and lines, check


The only original parts on that car are:
rims, seats, carpet, alternator, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, brake master cylinder, clutch cylinder, coolant res, wiring harness, PCM, steering wheel, air bags, body cladding (still a clean title, thankfully)

Isn't that sad?

On the positive side, I know it costs about 11,000$ to buy EVERY part that makes this car run XD - so its still a BIT less than if I had bought it when it was brand new