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View Full Version : Removing drivers side fuse panel...


shaunNmisty
06-13-2007, 10:43 AM
Basically, my turn signals are not working anymore because of a previous attempt to run a remote wire w/o using an aftermarket deck. Long story short. I have no turn signals, and no more amp.

What my thinking now is, since the location where ONE fuse is shot, and its that one fuse I need. Why not remove that holder, put a new one in there, an call it a day. Right?

So here is what I'm planning on doing: Removing the door, and removing the fuse panel. (Looks like just two bolts holding it in there.) Remove the turn signal connections, and crimp an inline fuse holder in place, and tie my remote into the side going to the engine compartment. Put the fuse panel, and door back. And leave the new turn signal fuse location down near the bottom of the whole console, or right there when you remove the cover.

That way, I get my remote, my turn signals, and fix a relatively easy problem myself and not having to take it to a mechanic and losing more $$ and time without my car. My thinking at least...

I know I'm not a car mechanic. To be honest, I work with computers and networking type of stuff. But... Its all the same 'principle'. And if I at least apply some basic electronic/work ethics to this project of mine. Then theoretically everything should turn out the way I envision, or at least, I can't mess anything up and won't be able to recover from on my own. Right....?

Thanks in advance for any and ALL advice, tips, or experience you may have had in a similar endeavor!!! LoL!

MantaGreen97
06-13-2007, 12:08 PM
Wait so you somehow fried the fuse holder in the fuse box? Is that what you're saying?

shaunNmisty
06-13-2007, 01:17 PM
LoL, long story long again....

A couple years back, I purchased a couple subs, and an amp and then had the store install it. Worked great with the stock deck.

Unfortunately, I wasn't the one who installed the stereo (didn't know enough back then). When they ran the line for the remote, they used the power coming from the turn signal fuse to tell the amp to turn on.

Since then, I've had issues with the car, and a couple different locations have looked at the engine. After time however, and moving the cable that was attached to the fuse (fuse still functioned as it should, just a little modified) the plastic, and connectors for the fuse got warped to the point, where they can't make a solid connection anymore.

So... Thats why I want to remove the fuse panel, take off the turn signal connections, and just make it an inline fuse. I just think that I can save myself alot of time, and $ this way, and it will function just the same. Just for future self car work... I need to remember that the fuse for my turn signals is in a different location now....

If I can find my camera again... I'll take some pictures to show you what I mean... (Really need to find it any ways... LoL!)

MantaGreen97
06-13-2007, 01:29 PM
^Unbelieveable. The "installer" did the ol' wire-in-the-fuse box way of connecting the amp remote? Must have gotten his certification out of his Froot Loops box, LOL. Or more likely wasn't certified at all.

Your method of correcting the fuse box problem sounds electrically ok, from what I understand. Just make sure you use proper gauge electrical wire to splice in there, along with a proper grade fuse holder for the circuit.

You may be able to bend the pins in the fuse box somehow, to re-accomodate the fuse so you could try that as well. Obviously be sure you have the battery disconnected before doing anything.

What fuse exactly is this connected to (I know turn signals are on it, but what is the fuse name)? I'm not that familiar with the fusing on the 99+ but I would move the amp remote elsewhere. Use a different fused ignition power circuit, and don't wire into the fuse box, all ghetto style, lol. Cut an appropriate wire in an appropriate place under the dash somewhere, and splice in the amp remote wire there.

shaunNmisty
06-13-2007, 02:10 PM
Tell me about it. After doing research, and using GOOGLE! All of 10 minutes told me that... Wasn't... The... Greatest... Solution to the problem. Not to mention the TRUST that I was paying my hard earned $$ to give me a worthwhile product.

Anyways... No use to cry over spilled milk.

I am going to try and solve this the best way that I can. However... I am VERY hesitant now to cut... And THEN try and correct what they did.

Not to mention. I'm SICK of paying $100 a POP to fix a f**king fuse! A $.40 FUSE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ok, now that I got that outta my system... Lets try and correct this. So... From what I'm gathering, it sounds like I'm on the right path... ;]~