Going to competition

['96GAGT]

Were going to be having a dB competition here in July, I'm kinda curious to know what you need to do to get ready for something like that. I'm running two OZ Audio Matrix Elite 4-Ohm subs, wire down to 2-Ohm then brought to 1-Ohm at the amp it self. I'm running 2200 RMS base, for these in a ported enclosure in my extended cab Sonoma. I have an 80AMP inline fuse running 4-gauge wire. I keep burning up my fuse when I turn it up real loud, so my question is should I go with a bigger fuse? 120AMP or 150AMP? Do I run a risk of burning up my wires? I have a KnuKonceptz.com wiring kit in my truck. I'm going to merely see what my truck can do and how it compares to others who feel they've got something good going on. My main purpose is to know if I can replace the fuse with a bigger one without burning up my wires and hopefully eliminating my risk of having it blow a fuse when I run it real hard.. when I blow a fuse IM usually shaking the hell out of my dash, door panels and making my wiperblades shake on the window, it only takes it for so long then it blows.. just wondering if the bigger fuse will solve the problem.. I'm kind of repeating my self here. Maybe I can't run it that hard.. maybe someone will have the answer for me.

[MantaGreen97]

You should use a larger fuse but with 4 gauge I wouldn't recommend going over 120A. How long is the mainline wire? The length will determine what fuse size you should use. For most runs, you should be using around a 120A fuse on that line though--that's what I would use anyway.

Note that I think in some competitions they may check the size of your fuse and may say it's unsafe if you use too large a fuse.

I'm not sure about the fuse size checking but I know that they will almost certainly make sure you have a fuse and that it is within 6" of the battery.

With 2200W RMS, what's the total fuse rating of your amps? Even with 120A of fusing, at 13.8V, you'll only get a gross wattage of around 1500W... After amplifier losses (efficiency) you'll be at even less. Now fuses take more current than they are rated for before they blow, in most cases, which is what would make your 80A fuse fine for daily driving. However in a competition where you have your amps running at/near full tilt for extended periods, the 80A fuse will blow in short order; the 120A fuse will be a lot better but even it might blow if you're going to be producing the kind of wattage you state.

Furthermore you'll probably find your alternator is not going to like it either, lol. What size alt is in the Sonoma? Dropping into the 12V range, that kind of power is going to draw in excess of 200A. What you really need is larger power wire and a high output alternator.

[kuecker_dj09]

he could run a dry cell battery designed for car audio to save his alternator

[Vampyrate]

wait, is this the fuse that came with the kit?

if it is:

DO NOT USE A LARGER FUSE! YOU CAN START AN ELECTRICAL FIRE FASTER THAN YOU THINK! Just because it is a 4ga wire doesn't mean that it can compare to every 4ga wire out there. the gauge is just the thickness of the wire, it says nothing about the impedence or how tightly it is coiled within the plastic insulator.

[car audio dave]

actually, you need to use the recommended fuse for that amp. 4 gauge can handel lots of power, its the amp and the rest fo your electrical system that you need to watch out for.

and NO a drycell battery will NOT save the alternator. you can upgrade the "big three" and itll help you get more power to your amp and it might help your laternator last longer.

these guys that compete in dB competitions have boxes that are fine tuned to maximize dB levels at certain frequencies. You can go to get your system metered, but dont feel bad if you loose or if your numbers are low, I would imagine that your system is more for daily use and to sound good overall, not just to be loud at a certain frequency.

[JeremiahCoffel]

No, the fuse that you'd be using for the inline is SOULY based on the ACTUAL guage of the wire/thread count. Just because the wire says it's 4 guage doesn't mean it is, it just means that the plastic insulator/jacket is the size that 4 guage would use (outer diameter). The Big 3 would help a bunch if you're gettin' low voltage and dimming. A dry cell/deep cycle is good for 'car off' playing. You will probably need a new HO alt. and definately higher guage wire for 2200WRMS. If your box is designed for daily then you'll be tuned low, and usually won't get TOO high of a reading, but can get there with some the big dogs of 'Street Beaters' I.E. Steve Meade 150dB tuned to 34Hz I think. That 150dB tuned that low is EXTREMELY loud for a daily box tuned that low. For a box tuned to about 40-45Hz that's nothing! Boxes tuned high are for high dB readings and comps only usually. To get prepared for the comp, you need to find out 2 things, what orginization is it, and what class will you be in? Then, learn the rules. You don't want to get disqualified the first time you go to a comp. You should be gettin' good readings for that's much power, that much cone area and ported box, in a Sonoma. Best of luck, Jeremiah.

[MantaGreen97]

Originally posted by JeremiahCoffel
No, the fuse that you'd be using for the inline is SOULY based on the ACTUAL guage of the wire/thread count.
I think you meant SOLELY, not SOULY, lol. I would hope that dead wire does not come back to haunt you :lol:

Thread count has nothing to do with wire gauge. American Wire Gauge is based on cross-sectional width/area of the conductor; the resultant resistance per unit distance is of the most importance [for determining current handling] and is determined by the cross sectional area and conductor material. For any given wire gauge and given conductor, a shorter wire will handle more current because it has less resistance. Strand count mainly pertains to wire flexibility--the more strands the more flexible. However it has little to do with current capacity of the wire, and nothing to do with it's gauge size.

Originally posted by JeremiahCoffel
Just because the wire says it's 4 guage doesn't mean it is, it just means that the plastic insulator/jacket is the size that 4 guage would use (outer diameter).
Correct and incorrect. Correct in that just because it says it is 4 gauge doesn't mean it is--many cheaper wires are overrated and actually use something smaller an rebrand to a thicker wire. E.g. They use 5 gauge wire and then sell it as 4 gauge. At the same time many premium wire types can be underrated and actually be larger than the marketed gauge size, giving more cross-sectional area and less resistance per unit distance.

Incorrect because if we're going by true/correct wire gauges, wire gauge has nothing to do with the insulation thickness, except that the insulation meet a minimum standard. Gauge, as mentioned, is based on cross-sectional area of the conductor.

Having said that, he has Knu Konceptz wire, which is generally regarded in the car audio world as being quite true to their numbers and generally good wire.

[xtantman]

Well if ur running 2200 rms u need to step up to 0/1 gauge wiring, that is if ur even really running anything close to that, and a 80 amp wouldnt even come close to working for that, like what been said before does ur amp have a fuse that came with it or a fuse built in? if so try to match that size, and with i mean if u actually have a amp that will push 2200 rms u will need to upgrade ur electrical to take advantage of the true power.

[YEVNTRY]

I am running 2500 rms and i have 2 /2awg one for each 1000 wat mono and a 4 awg for the 500/4 all are ran separate to the bat. and are fuzed separate with a 100 amp fuze, that may sound a lil extreame but this is recomended for optimal performace and protection!

[SilverBane]

I have dual 1/0 and 4gauge running right now and I am at a mere 1500RMS...This will change once I get another amp though.

That amp needs AT LEAST 2 gauge, preferably 1/0.

[fived]

Upgrade to 0 guage (kicker flex wire IMO), Big 3 kit from eD, High output alt, and def. 220A fuses = Loudness

[SilverBane]

Originally posted by fived
Upgrade to 0 guage (kicker flex wire IMO), Big 3 kit from eD, High output alt, and def. 220A fuses = Loudness

Why would you buy a big 3 kit from eD? Waste of money when he can do it himself with a fuse block and some 1/0 wire...

And I personally recommend knu for wire.

[fived]

Well you get about 15ft of 0 guage wire, plus all the little components you need to install and its only $50, its $3-4 per foot for good 0 gauge wire, so thats $45-60 for just wire, plus the fuse block and rings... cheaper and easier and I love eD :)

[SilverBane]

it is 1.75 per foot at knu and 1.75 for each ring terminal.

One of the reasons I dont like eD for that kit is that it is not fused.

I dont mind eD products, but ben is an http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_censored.gif!

[fived]

Really, I thought he was a cool guy. When I used to be an audio newb, he was literally on the phone with me for an hour trying to get my system to finally work. And when Id blow a sub, Id get a new one in return ;)

[SilverBane]

Originally posted by fived
Really, I thought he was a cool guy. When I used to be an audio newb, he was literally on the phone with me for an hour trying to get my system to finally work. And when Id blow a sub, Id get a new one in return ;)

Just dont like the guy, I have some of his subs here tho. I know mu roommate whats to put 12 9kv.3's ported in a wall.

4 of them sound nice and pound hard.

http://www.sundownaudio.com/rides/daily/atlas/002_large.jpg

Here is the 4 in a test box.

And the power:

http://www.sundownaudio.com/rides/daily/atlas/005_large.jpg

And wire:

http://www.sundownaudio.com/rides/daily/atlas/006_large.jpg

[SilverBane]

Vid too:

http://video.google.ca/videoplay?docid=-8435471149909404850

[fived]

Nice bro.. Yeah I had a couple 13kv2's and they were pretty damn loud for the price.. Sundown Audio makes some killer amps, I myself and looking for a new amp, I blew my old Kicker 2500.1, and this Zeus is just temporary. Tryin to sell a couple things to get the cash in the fs forum.

[SilverBane]

I love sundown.

You gonna get a 1500 or 3k?

[fived]

IDK.. Between Orion 2500D, IA 2000.1, XA3000D, or SD 3000.. But im slacking on money, just got a Pioneer touch screen AVIC D1, retails 1100 for $350 from a friend. Soon enough though. Whats that Sundown's birthsheet say?

[SilverBane]

They dont do birthsheets.

Power testing 3rd party:

SAZ-1500D (Will run 1/2 ohms comfortably with electrical)

1 amp, single 1000ca everstart maxx, factory alt

4 ohm nominal = 518 watts @ 88% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 14.0v)
2 ohm nominal = 948 watts @ 85% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 13.6v)
1 ohm nominal = 1510 watts @ 78% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 12.4 volts
.5 ohm nominal = 1615 watts @ 72% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 11.8v)
.35 ohm nominal = 1748 watts @ 67% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 11.4v)

1 amp, single 1000ca everstart maxx, 1 Eagle Picher 12a5000, factory alt

4 ohm nominal = 520 watts @ 88% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 14.1v)
2 ohm nominal = 960 watts @ 84% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 13.7v)
1 ohm nominal = 1635 watts @ 75% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 12.8 volts
.5 ohm nominal = 1890 watts @ 71% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 12.8v)
.35 ohm nominal = 2245 watts @ 65% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 12.8v)

2 amps strapped, with both batteries (for the sake of not typing it over and over... voltage drops from 14.3v, to 12.8 the entire test... lol

4 ohm strapped = 1900 watts @ 82% efficiency
2 ohm strapped = 3150 watts @ 72% efficiency
1 ohm strapped = 3740 watts @ 68% efficiency
.5 ohm strapped = 4425 watts @ 65% efficiency
.35 ohm strapped = 5415 watts @ 62% efficiency

SAZ-3000D (released this week, also happy at 1/2 ohm with electrical)

Power Output at Maximum Volume before Protection:

67.4 volts
77.1 amps
5196 watts

Power supply voltage was 16.5 volts at rest dropping to around 14.5 volts. So consider this a 14.5 volt output rating.

Our clamp meter ran out of steam at 400 amps so we measured efficiency at lower levels:

3294 watts @ 84% efficiency (252 amps draw)
3938 watts @ 81% efficiency (316 amps draw)
4424 watts @ 74% efficiency (392 amps draw)

[SilverBane]

The new XA-4000D looks sweet though!

[fived]

Haha wow those things are def. underrated.. I really dont want more then 3k watts. I don't do many comp's and I think 2-3k in my car daily is plent loud. IDK if you have ever heard/saw the DB Drive Plat's, but they are pretty loud haha, whats your setup?

[SilverBane]

currently I have a set of kicker KS69's running off a Sundown SAX-100.2.

What is in the works?

TC9 motor with SI soft parts coned to a 15", 2 strapped SAZ-1500D's, RD Sonance 6.5 comps, and the SAX-100.2 until I get my hands on the SAX-250.2. Deck is a Clarion DXZ675USB, but I am gonna swap it for a Naka CD-500 as soon as I can.

[fived]

Nice nice.. I had a TC9 before, pushed by a eD nine.1 and it was pretty loud......... Its just sittin in my room, trying to sell it.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid212/p1aa4e8bd8a1cf5d81a840acff894764f/ed61f33a.jpg

[SilverBane]

How much would you want for it, I am looking for a new TC9 motor.