View Full Version : loud valve train noise
Put new tensioner on timing chain and new oil filter on. Drove it in town perhaps 100 miles, then went on highway. After about 150 miles started ticking noise that rapidly progressed to loud hammering noise. Sounds like no oil getting to lifters. We towed it home. Oil light is NOT on. Is it possible that we could be getting low oil pressure lubing lower end but not enough to lube head? Blocked oil passage? Wrong oil filter? Oil pump bad or suction blocked due to debris from the timing chain repair?
I put a manual oil pressure gauge on. It ran up to 100psi when I started it and then back to 60psi at idle. So looks like oil pump is fine. Anyone ever had lifters sticking and free themselves? This car could have been sitting for a while, we just bought it.
ENGGUY
07-10-2007, 08:34 PM
Improperly timed cams, bent valve piston hitting it.
And could be a rod bearing was on its way out and that is the problem. Does it have a miss?
Unfortunately, I found out that it was a spun #3 rod bearing. I'm going to pull the motor and fix it. About 3oo miles ago, I just paid someone big bucks to adjust the cam chain because I didn't have time to do it. Now all that labor is for nothing!
DontPassTheFence
07-11-2007, 03:52 AM
hay I did that! same noise too - tickticktick then clanging and rattling.
Poor oiling system attributes to a sensative engine. Gotta keep the engine clean and the oil FRESH. (also the EXACT right viscocity for the climate)
Turns out my crank was oval on #3 so I needed a rebuilt? crank. Had some trouble to find one as most people said that these motors have a tendency to spin rod bearings! I'll know this afternoon if any rods need replacing. I know another rod looked like it was about to spin as well.
I will make sure that the clearances are just right and make sure my son plugs it in if it is the least bit cool outside. Probably use Mobil 1 in it as well. I will also replace the water pump with a new one. Replacing it would be almost as much trouble as pulling the motor!
Anyone else have any specific tips to make the reinstall go easier? Or make the motor live longer. Thanks "Don't pass..." for the clean oil tip.
This sure isn't the old Chev 350!
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