Can somebody PLEASE help???

[staci]

Can somebodyplease help me? I have a 1999 SE 6 CYL and it won't start AT ALL. A while before I had any problem, there was a ticking sound in my car. One day I was driving and it was fine. When I went to get back in, it wouldn't start at all. After a few min. of trying to start it, it finally started and brought me home. It hasn't started since. The security light was on and we've done the 10 min. on/off thing, replaced the ignitin, the BCM and done a few other things. It turns over but just won't start! There are only a few Pontiac dealers in my area and when I called them they tell me they "may" be able to fix it but their not sure. I sure don't wanna have it towed just so they can "maybe fix it". I'm not rich! Also, I should of mentioned, I bought my car used only one previous owner and apparently the idiot who owned it stuck the remote start in it but the model was generic and I can't tell which brand it is and he didn't bother leaving the remote start key with the dealership when he sold them the car! We have tried EVERYTHING and just can't figure it out! Any help would be greatly appreciated- Thanks so much!

[ENGGUY]

http://www.autotoys.com/x/cust/product.php?productid=256

If it is VATS related this may help.
Or you could cut the yellow wire to the ignition switch, search for my post on the topic.
It may take way more than 10 minutes of ignition switch on to relearn. You need to make the start attempt and just release the key, do not turn if off and back on. The engine has to be turned by the starter and key released, and let it set for 15 or so minutes.

[staci]

Thanks-maybe I'll try it!

[rixGAphx]

Four things:

1. As you surmise, your problem is *prolly* related to Passlock and/or the Remote Start.
Particularly with the 'Security' light being 'on'.
However, since you enjoyed at least a few months of dependable operation with the thing installed but essentially inactive, let's not rule-out other things.

2. You've been cranking on the battery pretty hard.
Remove it and have it 'slow-charged' overnight at the local Checker/AutoZone/etc.
And, since all GA's can get really stupid when electrical power isn't in grea shape, do a complete battery cable service:
Check your entire charging system: Alternator, Battery, and,........
BATTERY CABLES/CONNECTIONS:

GA Batt Cable Service

Battery cable ends must be clean and tight and shiny bright.
Even the best new alternator and the best new battery can't provide adequate power (volts and amps) if the connections are so dirty/loose/corroded that power doesn't flow thru them.
Bad connections will also kill both the alternator and the battery very quickly.

So, inspect/clean/repair/replace/tighten all THREE ends of both cables to provide maximum flow of electrical power.
Disconnect cables: NEG (Black) first, then POS (Red).
Cut the molded rubber boots from the battery connections, since water seeps thru them and corrodes the copper wire into useless powder.
(This step is VERY important.
You can't just look at the outside and think, "They look alright".)

Dissolve corrosion with a paste solution of baking soda and water, applied with an old toothbrush.
Scrape/sand/wire-brush all the metal (cable ends and batt terminals) to shiny metal.
In an emergency, Coca-Cola poured over the corrosion will partially-clean it.

Pay attention to the Body Ground: This is a smaller Black (Neg) wire that comes from the battery terminal and attaches directly to the bodywork, somewhere near the left (Driver) side hood edge. This is a source of rust, and must be kept clean and shiny. (This is the ‘3rd end’ of the NEG cable.)
The POS cable has a ‘3rd end’ that connects inside the Main Junction Box, about 12 inches from the battery.

Reconnect cables: POS (Red) first, then NEG (Black); this is OPPOSITE of the way you disconnected them.
Replace the cut-off boots with new aftermarket slip-on rubber boots to protect against short-circuiting while allowing for future inspection and service.

Weird things happen to GA's when the cables aren't in pristine shape.
ABS is a particularly sensitive system, and will often show a random 'ABS' light though nothing else appears to be wrong.

Battery cable/connection service is necessary and cheap ($5 for new rubber boots), so there's no downside to servicing them immediately.

3. Verify that the problem is lack of fuel, as opposed to lack of spark (Passlock cuts-off fuel injection; a bad fuel pump or a bad fuel pump relay also prevents injection)
Test:
Get a spray can of Winter Starting Fluid, ~$4 at Kmart.
Remove the top of the air filter box, and while somebody cranks the engine (with charged battery and servicd cables), spray some fluid into the engine air inlet.
If the engine 'fires' for a few seconds, or even kinda 'coughs', then you have ignition and the problem is fuel-related.
If there's not even a 'cough', then you aren't getting spark and the problem is ignition related.

4. The car can be worked on by any GM dealer, not just Pontiac.
But they will all say they can't 'guarantee' they'll solve the problem.
Not that they don't want to, but because they don't have a super-capable automotive electrician who can diagnose the 'Remote Start' problem (which this seems to be, at least over the phone).

Who DOES have such a super-capable tech?
An automotive stereo/alarm company that's been in business a long time with lots of satisfied customers and one very satisfied, well-paid head technician.
This is who you need to find.
Use the yellow pages and call around, find who is the most-capable alarm installer.

Secondly, there is prolly a well-respected specialist in automotive electronics somewhere in the greater B'more area, and certainly somebody down in DC.
These are the shops that insurance companies send their customers to after there's been an underhood fire that has damaged lots of wire on an otherwise salvagable car.
Call your insurance company's claim department and find out who they use.

Hope this helps,
-Rick

[staci]

Thanks for all the info.- we have actually checked the battery and cables and all. But the winter starting fluid sounds like something I'll try! And thanks so much for the other info. you've provided to me- I appreciate it so much!

[Heimnar]

Hi, I searched the forum but couldn't find the exact answer...
...it is about the Passlock issue:
What actually this "10 minutes procedure" do?
I've got to do it lately, as my car said NO to starting due to this problem :D.

Why such question:
Well - if the Passlock engages - means finds out that something is wrong with the key (seemingly) - then it cuts off the fuel supply to the engine, and it won't start. Or start for a few seconds and shuts off.
I tried that several times and finally car stopped starting at all (even for these few seconds) which I presume is the "level 2" security lock, or something like that.
Then I went through 10 minutes reset/unlock/override procedure and now the car works fine.
But - what does the procedure do? Does it mean that the Passlock...let's say... learns the key again, so it will recognize it properly?
Or it simply unlocks the security lock, and basically the Passlock-key situation remains as it was before. Which means that overtime (as the key wears off slowly) the probability of engaging a Passlock increases? Which in turn might lead to a situation when just after unlocking the Passlock will engage right away.

As I am a type of person who likes to know how do the things work in detail - that is why I state such a question.
If there is anybody who knows that...sharing the knowledge would be appreciated :).

[staci]

I don't know why it does it- lucky for you, your car did at least start! I'm about reeady to take a sledgehammer to mine! It looks so pretty sitting there though that I don't think I have the nerve! HA HA!

[staci]

does anyone know where the phisa local of ground spice packs is located? thanks!

[ENGGUY]

The same place the gizzmofragus is located of course.

So what is it your asking????

Ground wire junction? Like where do all the grounds come to on the engine block? On a quad 4/ twin cam they are on the LH rear of the output flange. Meaning the place the transaxle attaches to the engine. In the car that is to the front on the driverside.
Not sure on the V6's, just follow the ground wire from the battery, they should be close to where it terminates.

Are you sure the battery is good?
Once its running the charging system needs to be checked for output. Check all battery connections.