300 amp alt???

[holt_champ]

does anyone make a 300 amp alt for a 2000 grand am? the highest that i have seen is 200 which i currently have. and also what are some other brands of batteries that would work for a kx2500.1 amp? im lookin to put one in the trunk as well. i was looking at kinetiks but they are expensive so is there something else would work just as well?

[CSCustomCars]

Just a quick question, but how much power are you using that would require a 300 amp alt? Not meant to be mean or anything. I'm just wondering...

[area3]

I like the optima Batteries But these are nice to http://www.kinetikaudio.com/default.asp

[sudden_impulse]

Originally posted by holt_champ
i was looking at kinetiks but they are expensive so is there something else would work just as well?
Originally posted by area3
I like the optima Batteries But these are nice to http://www.kinetikaudio.com/default.asp

[area3]

:roll2:

U get what u pay for :D

Seriously Though I have a Red Top and a Yellow top and love them....

[damobster54]

I used optima for a bit... Definitely wasn't powerful enough so went with 2 1800 kinetiks

[SilverBane]

If you need more then a 200 amp alt for one kicker 2500, you are either doing something wrong or that alt sucks ass.

No offence meant by that, but 200 Amps should be sufficient.

Group 31 yellow or blue top should do well...

[GtAudioFreak]

If you think Kinetic batteries are expensive, then you probably don't wanna find out how much a 300 amp alternator costs.

[holt_champ]

well i was told that 200 amp alt would be enough for the kx2500 amp but not everything else at the same time(lights, AC,ect.) and are kinetics good starter batteries

[BrewMaster]

I have not checked the forums in a while...but

I updated to a excessive amperage 200amp HO alternator ( http://www.excessiveamperage.com/ ).
It is a direct drop in. Nothing bigger will fit unless you get modified brackets ect. ect.

I must say I am highly impressed. If you have not upgraded your alternator, DO IT!! I read 15.2v at the amps now (up from 14.3v) and I have no more power issues. I can list all my amps for you but in short I have 220 amps worth of fuses(3 @ 60 amp, 1 @ 40 amp).
I will post my current draw numbers soon as I get um. I estimate about 190's.

brew

[holt_champ]

yea i have a 200 amp from iraggi and it seems good but i need a new battery. i think thats what my problem is.

[BrewMaster]

part of the problem may be that the iraggi HO alt is putting out 175 at idle and 200 max. I don't know how much current draw you have but having a week battery thats not accepting a charge will effect you also.

How many volts do you read at idle and engine off? Are you running your system with engine on or off?

btw the excessive amperage puts out min 200amps at engine idle max of 215.

brew

[holt_champ]

with the engine off i think its like11.5 or something but with it one its like 13.7. but when my subs hit the voltage drops to like 10.5 or 11

[BrewMaster]

the battery should be minimum 12.#v, hell its a 12v battery ;).
Sounds like you have a bad battery. But even with a bad battery your alternator is not supplying enough current to keep the charging system up with your current draw! and at 11v you amp is not putting out near the rated power.

KX2500.1 specs:
Output Power at 14.4V and <1.5% THD+N:
1 x 1250W @ 4 ohm
1 x 2500W @ 2 ohm
Output Power CEA-2006 (14.4V and <1% THD):
1 x 1500W
S/N Ratio: >95dBA (at Rated Power)
Freq. Response: 20Ha ~ 200Hz (+0/-1 dB)
Fuse: External 300A

(figure the amp is really drawing 275 on peak base notes if running at 2ohm and the car is possibly using 50 to run all its electronics).

only solution is to get bigger Alt. or try multi battery set up. But even with multi battery set up the batteries are going to drain and the Alternator is going to be stressed trying to keep them charged.
bottom line you have more current draw than your current charging system can handle keeping up with... :(

I am not an expert...so I may be a little off base...ask around your local shops. Ask them how they would keep up with 300-350amps worth of current draw.
If you only plan to play it high volumes with the engine on I would do a 300-350 amp alt and a large hybrid cap (they are just like batteries now a days...sorta). thats MO

[BrewMaster]

btw ....what speakers are you sending 2500 watts to?????
you got pics of this setup?

[holt_champ]

ive got 2 15" FI Q's. (very nice sub)...oh and if it make any difference the 13.7 volts was at idle. i couldnt rev the engine and take a reading so im asuming my voltage is a little higher when im on the gas

[xtantman]

sounds like a battery problem to me, i just dont see why a 200 amp alt wouldnt run ur system? And i would stay away from caps they dont do crap.

[holt_champ]

but 2700 wrms a lot of friggen power tho. maybe i will get my alt. tested and then go buy a new battery. if that doesnt work then i will try to add a new batttery in the truck and when all else fails well i will just sell my subs and amp and find something better for me.

[BrewMaster]

xtantman,

he has over 300amps worth of current draw.....200amp alt will not help.
200amp from the alternator, ....and the battery has to make up the difference.......no wounder the battery is almost dead and cant accept a good charge.

And hybrid caps do their job. they will not help in your dim lights or help with insufficient powered systems. It will help supply consistent power in a properly powered setup. Thats why I suggested a 350amp alt and a hybrid cap. The cap was not suggested as a way to help with the lack of power supplied by his alternator, but to compliment it.

[car audio dave]

1) caps do work, but keep in mind that most people have no clue what they are SUPPOSED to do.

2) my 150 amp alternator worked for my 2000 watt RMS system. a 200 amp alternator should be fine with the proper equipment.

If you are running the system with the engine on mostly then get a red top optima and get a 2 or 3 farad cap. If you run with the engine off a lot, then get a red top AND a yellow top, and that same 2 or 3 farad cap.

you need the quick discharge that a cap can offer since a battery cant recharge and discharge as much power as quickly as that amp needs it to.

dont expect the lights to stop dimming or the AC to run better.

also make sure youve upgraded the "big three". At least check your battery ground, and the wire going from the alternator to the battery. those need to be at least 4 gauge, but with your setup id run 1/0. also, what gauge is the wire going back to the amp? if the wire is too thin that could effect it. i wold be running 1/0.

[BrewMaster]

car audio dave your exactly rite on the caps...... Also sometimes we should not look at "watts" and look at current/AMPS.

If you talking about running a system with the engine on, as in this case...
if you draw ### number amps you need ### amps supplied.
If you cant supply ### of amps the battery will have to compensate.
this is what you try to avoid.
When the engine is running...the battery is not the primary supplier of voltage/current. The alternator is.

300amps+ draw = big alt, big gauge wire (and big 3 mod), reliable deep cycle battery....and if you can a cap to even out the spikes in current draw.

[xtantman]

Go to Realm of Excursion and read the thread about caps and what they do and dont do. Kinetic batts may be expensive but go to there sight and read about them to might be a goood idea to maybe pick one up instead of if u decided to run a bigger alt, just my 2 cents and opinion.

[matts]

you mean the stock altenator wasn't sufficient??? :lol: