starting

[96pontiac]

i have a 1996 grand am
when you go to start it none of dash lights come on. it has daytime running lights dont go on ,it sound like the starter is going. when it start it runs a few seconds then dies. can it be pass lock or natural saftey switch

[rixGAphx]

'96 4-cyl, 11 yrs old, mebbe 130k miles?
Hom many miles since the following were changed:
* Spark plugs and boots?
* Fuel filter?
* Air fliter?
* Front O2 sensor?
* Rear O2 sensor?
* Cat?

You don't know if your 'Check Engine' bulb works, so you don't know if the PCM has stored any codes.
To find out, just stop by a Checker/AutoZone/etc. and have them scan your OBD-II for stored codes.
Write down the exact numbers that they scan, if any.
* * *

Does the hard-to-stat occur:
* Only in the morning ('cold start')? or,
* Only when engine has been 'off' for only a few minutes? or,
* At all times.
* * *

If the 'Security' light is 'on' as you turn the key to 'start', then it's prolly a 'Passlock' issue.
'Passlock' absolutely prevents starting, doesn't just make it difficult; so I don't think this is the problem.

I take it you have a manual tranny, since the auto tranny doesn't have an actual NSS.
The auto has a 'tranny position sensor' which does a lot for the auto tranny, including *acting* as an NSS relative to locking-out the starter motor unless the tranny is in 'N' or 'P'.

This doesn't seem to be an NSS problem anyway, since its only purpose (and action) is to prevent current from going to the starter motor unless the manual tranny is in 'N'.
You seem able to crank your engine just fine.

Frankly, I think you have three problems, but mebbe only one.

First, there's obviously something wrong with the ignition switch.
This is preventing the dash cluster 'check lights' feature when you turn the key to 'on'.
Solution: New ignition switch (not ignition key cylinder, which is a separate part that goes inside the switch).
About 2 hours from what I've read, mebbe $125 for the part from NAPA.
Do you know if the Ignition Switch Recall was done for your car?
If it was, then GM installed a relay, about 1"x1"x2" tall, smack in the middle of the top of the radiator core support.

Second, you can crank the engine and it fires, so you have all the ingredients for 'running': Spark, compression (cranking), and fuel (proper Air-Fuel mixture, to be exact).
But then something falls apart, and you lose at least one of those 3.
Personally, I'm *guessing* you're losing 'proper' AF mixture from faulty fuel pressure, casued by either dirty fuel filter, faulty Fuel Pressure Regulator, or failing fuel pump.
A vac leak or faulty EGR vavle could also disrupt the AF.

But it could be you're losing power/spark, and that *might* be due to a faulty ignition switch.

We won't know until you find out what codes might be stored.
Even confirmation that there are NO codes gives us strong evidence in some directions and away from others.

Finally, the DRL's might also be related to the faulty ignition switch (which happens a LOT, BTW).
Or this may be its own, separate and third problem.

I would:
* Scan the present codes before dong anything else. Report the code(s) here for more analysis.
* Change the ignition switch (but keep the present cylinder, which matches your door/trunk/glovebox key).
See how everything runs, and have the codes re-scanned.
Then,
* Change the fuel filter if more than 30k miles old; though this is a royal, m@#$%^f'ng PITA on the '96 if it wasn't been 'converted' to the 'modern' fuel filter connector. I think it must have been, or your car would be long-since dead on the side of the road.
* Change the plugs and boots if they're more than about 60k miles old.
* Change the front O2 sensor if it's more than 75k miles old; and prepare to replace the rear one within a month or so.
* Prepare to change the cat if it's original.

Hope this helps,
-Rick

PS: Just for S&G, is the car up-to-date on oil change, tranny fluid flush/change/, coolant system inspection, and battery cable service?
It's not likely these would affect the present condition, I guess I'm just nosey.

[gobraves00]

rix, could it have anything to do with the recall they had a few years ago on the ignition thing catching fire, could it be going faulty or is it a thing that either works or dont?

in most of your posts you always bring up the o2 sensors, why

and why would u just change the front if the rear one is going to go bad in a mnth, whats there connection to eachother.i see you have the same model car as this post, where is these sensors you speak of and where can i get them.ive got 160k so i know its time to change both of mine if they only have a 75k life expectancy. why arent they something an oil change place bring up to get replaced?if you know of a spot on the web that clarifies these o2 sensors more i would like to read it.