window wont go up

[thetruPGA]

my pass side window keeps getting stuck down at first it didnt happen very often and i would just wait and eventually it would go up. now it wont go up at all. i took it in and the mechanic said i needed to replace the motor bc it would only work when going down. i replaced it myself this morning and its still the same problem. im thinking its electrical but i dont know where to start.

[Big Dawg 23]

Did you replace motor only or motor and regulator? If you didnt do the regulator that is more than likely your cause. Here is a link to a very good site. Have bought motors in the past and still working.
http://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_pontiacmtr.htm

[rixGAphx]

Besides the motor and regulator, the GA power windos have problems with the switch and the tracks.

Do a complete 'service' of the window.
There was a significant change in the GA power windows in '99; the old-style were 'scissors-action', the 99+ are a kinda 'rolling wire' mechanism.

Service:
1. Remove door handle panel (two phillips-head screws in the bottom of the 'hand grip'), and twist aside.
2. Unplug and replug the connector from the window switch(es). The pins corrode and get 'gunky', so they need to be cleaned for EXCELLENT contact (when the window is partly-open, roof drainage water drips right onto the switches, and corrodes the pins and such). Mebbe even clean the contacts with toothpicks, or a metal dental pick. Use a little household rubbing alcohol and cotton Q-tips to dissolve the gunk.
This alone may give you enough power to solve the problem.
3. Lube the vertical tracks, using spray silicone (don't use WD-40, oil, or grease). This will provide long-term lubrication yet won't smear when you wash the window like petroleum products will.

The above steps may reduce the resistance enough to solve the problem, and you can stop right here if things work well.
Otherwise, continue:
4. Now for the tough stuff, inside the door:
5. Remove the door panel (careful of the screw behind the reflector), and use a special 'trim removal tool' to pop the plastic fasteners loose. You'll *prolly* break a few, but replacements are available for a couple $$ in the HELP! section of Checker/AutoZone/etc.
Also be EXTREMELY careful of the mechanical side-view mirror adjustment knob!!. The little plastic grommet canNOT be removed, it just BREAKS!!! Every Pontiac dealer body shop has a box of these little f'ers under the counter, about $3 each (I buy 2 each time, 'cuz I'm clumsy).
You can prevent breakage: With the door open, you can kinda rotate/pivot the panel onto the outside of the roof/windshield so it's out of the way, with the cable still attached. Tape the panel in place.
6. Remove the plastic weather barrier; it must be reinstalled, so try not to tear it.
7. With the window up, look at the operating mechanism:
* Pre-‘99 were 'scissors' mechanism. Lots of things that slide and roll and rotate, and many prolly have rust.
* ‘99+ are a kind of 'rolling wire' mechanism with fewer parts that move or rust. They also have the infamous 'plastic clips' that break easily (replacements also available from the 'HELP!' section).

Use Naval Jelly to dissolve the rust, then rinse and allow to dry. You may have to sand/steel wool some items.
This mechanism is never gonna look pretty; your goal is simply to lube the things that move.
Apply moly-based wheel bearing grease to the tracks, and every other moving thing you can.
Apply heavy oil (engine oil, like 10W30) to all the rollers and pivots that you couldn't grease (don't use light machine oil like 3-in-1).
Do NOT use WD-40 as a lube!! It is mostly solvent, and won't provide the long-term lubing that you need.
8. Look at the rear of the mechanism. On the pre-‘99’s, there is one screw or bolt where it attaches to the door structure. This has a small amount of adjustment (to allow the window to rise parallel with the track). This bolt loosens over time, so adjust the glass as needed and tighten the screw (maybe a bolt, I don't really remember). I dunno if the 99+’s have this bolt or not.
9. Reconnect the switches, and test everything before buttoning-up.
* Everything should work pretty well.
* If it doesn't, then it's time for a new motor, and/or regulator.
10. Reinstall the weather barrier plastic, using black goop and lots of duct tape to reduce wind leakage thru the door-handle slot.
11. Reinstall panel and handle panel.

OKAY.
You've now returned the entire window assembly to about 80% of the *new* condition.

Hope this helps.
-Rick

PS: Once or twice a year, service the switches (driver and passenger sides) by unplugging/replugging the socket to reduce the effects of corrosion.