View Full Version : Paint
LoneRangers15
06-05-2003, 09:53 AM
Where is a good place online to buy paint? I have a HVLP sprayer. I want to use either lacquer or enamel(not sure which is better) because I have heard so bad things about urethane paint(like a normal charcoal filter won't protect you, you need a fresh air supply). I am looking to put on a basecoat and primer. I don't want anything too expensive, just something that will last and keep the metal from rusting. I understand it will not be perfect. I am looking to put a medium to dark blue over a light blue(I believe it is called Electron Blue). Will I need to use a primer since I am going darker? How much paint/primer will it take (it's a sedan)?
JoeyK
06-06-2003, 08:07 PM
Urethane will not hurt you if you're only gonna spray one car. However, I would wear that charcoal filter mask. (Otherwise you'll be as high as a kite & probably end up w/ a splitting headache)Most don't filter all the chemicals out of urethane, but they will filter out the polymers, which is what you really, really don't wanna breathe.
Just so most of you are aware: Polymers will plasticise your lungs over time under frequent exposer. In other words, it will litteraly coat your lung walls / plastic & you'll eventually be on a breatheing machine if you wanna live. That is if your lungs don't get totally sealed up.
my old school instructer, whom painted w/out a mask found out the hard way. He litterally suffocated in '95.
I myself, shoot Urethatne all day , sealed in a mobile fresh air suit. Yes, I look like I am working for a biohazzard company, or like something off the x files!
What color is your car now? also, is there anywhere that you have made any repairs or there's bare metal showing? Is there more than one color of paint on the car now?
LoneRangers15
06-06-2003, 09:41 PM
My car is a light blue almost silver color now. I believe it is the original paint. There are a few rust spots that I fixed using fibreglass cloth and resin.
JoeyK
06-06-2003, 09:55 PM
Wow!,.. oldschool repair! Nothing wrong w/ a lil glass! Just most people don't use it anymore. You shouldn't have to seal the car going from light blue to black. The only primer you'll neeed is to cover & smoothe out your repairs. So I assume a pint will do for the primer. If you're going black I'd say you could get by just fine w/ 2 quarts of paint, given you are spraying w/ an hvlp gun. Just make sure you have a .8 to 1.4 tip & needle in it, don't go over 1.4 otherwise it'll be a soaker! ( It'll blast out the paint in heavy quanities & will takle more paint to cover your car, not to mention, you'll prob end up w/ more orange peel than you'd want) & below .8 you'll end up w/ alot of dryspray. I would highly recomend going w/ urethane, It's a higher solid paint than enamel & especially laquer. (It's thicker, therefore it's harder to screw up w/ runs & sags) Unless you've got the "Midas touch".
LoneRangers15
06-06-2003, 11:59 PM
Thanks for the help! I think fibreglass makes for a nice repair in places that the structure isn't affected. The only problem is it is hard to apply upside down (I found this out doing my wheelwells).
tankspring
07-03-2003, 07:59 AM
Have fun with the hvlp. They are nice for the hood and big flat areas, they are nice for spraying cars. But i work in a paint shop doing a lot of small parts, and the jacked air pressure makes them pain in the but sometimes.
I still prefer a regular ol air assisted airless with only 50 pounds on the pot.
JoeyK
07-03-2003, 04:34 PM
Jacked air pressure? Hvlp means high velocity/ low pressure. I get good results at 35 to 45 psi, depending on what I'm shooting.
You'd be amazed w/ a Sata Jet K3 if you tried it! (it's also an hvlp) They're a little pricey at $750.00 but if you paint for a living, it's well worth it!
I just seen your profile, I see your an industrial painter. I was for a while & did cars on the side. For factory painting I loved the Devilbiss OMX because it is so light weight. (It weighs in somewhere just over a pound) The only downfall is you don't wanna drop it & the rebuild kits are expensive.
LoneRangers15
07-04-2003, 05:29 AM
Originally posted by JoeyK
Jacked air pressure? Hvlp means high velocity/ low pressure. I get good results at 35 to 45 psi, depending on what I'm shooting.
You'd be amazed w/ a Sata Jet K3 if you tried it! (it's also an hvlp) They're a little pricey at $750.00 but if you paint for a living, it's well worth it!
I just seen your profile, I see your an industrial painter. I was for a while & did cars on the side. For factory painting I loved the Devilbiss OMX because it is so light weight. (It weighs in somewhere just over a pound) The only downfall is you don't wanna drop it & the rebuild kits are expensive.
I thought is was High Volume/ Low Pressure?
JoeyK
07-04-2003, 10:00 AM
I've heard it both ways. Either way : max amount of paint w/ alot less pressure. Most hvlp's also atomizethe paint alot better than the older models. Atomazation is the key to a smooth coat.
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