Timing Chain Cover Removal

[Xeiros]

Well, based on some replies to this thread...

http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84230

My mystery sound my very well be a bad timing chain, which means I know I'm in for a hell of a good time since it's a very involved process. My question is, can you remove the timing chain cover without removing the engine from the car?

I don't have a picker, nor do I have access to one. I know it would probably mean certain bolts would be a royal PITA to get to, but I guess that what I'll have to deal with if it's possible.

Anyone know?

[2K SE]

I just read a post talking about this. And I also need to get in there. What I understand is you need to remove the passenger side motor mount so you will need to SUPPORT the motor.
I also plan on the water pump changeand timing chain and tensioner, when I install the secret cams. Might concider the oil pump change also but I have not gotten that far into my research. And BTW, get a Chiltons or Haynes manual. Lots of good info there.

[jonnythan]

2K SE has it right, according to the GM manual.

[Xeiros]

I already have the Hayes manual, I just don't have it here with me right now. I was just concerned about it since there is almost zero space on the passenger side of the engine bay.

I had planned on doing the water pump and balance shaft chain as well, but thats about it.

[jonnythan]

The GM manual basically says:

Remove coolant surge tank.
Remove the drive belt.
Remove the upper fasteners from the timing chain cover.
Remove the engine mount and bracket.
Raise the vehicle.
Remove the right front wheel and tire.
Remove the splash shield.
Remove the crankshaft balancer.
Remove the lower fasteners from the timing chain over.
Lower vehicle.
Remove the cover and gasket.

[nukkinfuttz]

http://www.quadper4mance.com/timing
Check this link. It shows you how to do it whether its in the car or not. Makes no difference. This is a Quad 4 pictured, but both motors are essentially the same in the timing area.

[jcasemore]

The GM manual basically says:

Remove coolant surge tank.
Remove the drive belt.
Remove the upper fasteners from the timing chain cover.
Remove the engine mount and bracket.
Raise the vehicle.
Remove the right front wheel and tire.
Remove the splash shield.
Remove the crankshaft balancer.
Remove the lower fasteners from the timing chain over.
Lower vehicle.
Remove the cover and gasket.

Sounds good except in the manual they assume that you have a rig for supporting the engines weight across the strut towers but I'm going to guess you don't have one. So, jack the car up to get the tire off and than block the car with blocks or jack stands. Then when you go to remove the motor mount you can use a block of wood and a floor jack to support the engine weight when you remove the motor mount.

[ENGGUY]

It can be done, but is going to be a not so fun deal. You will be wanting to cut that whole fender off the car once you start doing it. Good luck. Support the engine with a jack padded with wood, its not like it will fall out of the car once that mount is off.

[jdamron]

I recently did this job myself with my neighbor's help. We had to cut holes in the fender in order to remove the engine mount bolts. I created a write-up of what I did that you are welcome to view at the following page:

http://damronplanet.com/waterpump/WaterPumpReplacement.htm

[ENGGUY]

I recently did this job myself with my neighbor's help. We had to cut holes in the fender in order to remove the engine mount bolts. I created a write-up of what I did that you are welcome to view at the following page:

http://damronplanet.com/waterpump/WaterPumpReplacement.htm

Nice photos. Wow they regressed in manufacturing that water pump and drive. Its so much easier on the 95 and 96 2.4's, you can just unbolt the water pump and it comes right off, no playing with the timing chain. Another good move by GM saves money to make, and makes money for the dealerships. You didn't have to drill the holes you did, if you can get a box end wrench to loosen those bolts, then you pry the engine towards the driver side if you need more clearance. You best paint those holes with some Zero rust paint, or else its gona start rotting there.

[jdamron]

...You didn't have to drill the holes you did, if you can get a box end wrench to loosen those bolts, then you pry the engine towards the driver side if you need more clearance. You best paint those holes with some Zero rust paint, or else its gona start rotting there.

I was not sure at the time how much I could move the engine without damaging things so I cut the holes because I knew that would work. Yes, I agree that I need to paint the holes. Thanks for the advice.