Driver side window problems

[sirpingalot]

Hi All,
I have a 99 Grand Am and recently my drivers side window quit working. I've read a lot of useful information on the forums as to what might be the reason and how I can go about fixing it. One thing that is not clear to me though is, to remove the driver side door panel, is a clip removal tool MANDATORY?

Will the clips break if I do not use a clip removal tool? Or will they just snap out of their slots?

Any other pointers for someone who is going to attempt this for the first time?

A short description of my problem (if anyone can ascertain whether it is a motor/regulator problem). The window used to work erratically with me having to push the switch around a whole lot. Then it finally started making clunking/clinking noises. Finally called it quits and refuses to go up or down. Is there any way I can make sure it is a regulator/motor/switch problem?

Thanks in advance
Sirpingalot.

[rixGAphx]

Clip-removal tools have been recommended since the '60's, and nearly every car needs the same damned $6 tool.
In place of that, you can *usually* get-by with a stiff-bladed putty knife.

If you don't use one or the other to try to 'leverage' the panel near the clip, then you risk not only damaging the clip, but pulling it right out of the plastic door panel (for the GA's, it's a one-piece molded-plastic 'shell' under the fabric).
Not so prevalent a problem now, but in 'the old days' those panels were Masonite and it was guaranteed to break.

You will prolly break one or two of the lips anyhow, since they were only designed to be strong enough for GM to install them, not for ham-fisted DIYers to remove them.
The clips are about $3 for a pcakage of 4 in the HELP! display at AutoZone/Checker/etc.

Here's my write-up for the '96; your '99 will be slighty different, and I think there's a write-up under FAQs for yours:

Complete 'service' of the window.
There was a significant change in the GA power windows in '99; the pre-‘99’s were 'scissors-action', the 99+ are a kinda ’rolling wire’ mechanism.

Power Window Service (specifically relative to my ’96, but common for pre-’99 and similar for '99+):
1. Remove door handle panel (two phillips-head screws in the bottom of the 'hand grip'), and twist aside.
2. Unplug and replug the connector from the window switch(es). The pins corrode and get 'gunky', so they need to be cleaned for EXCELLENT contact (when the window is partly-open, roof drainage water drips right onto the switches, and corrodes the pins and such). Mebbe even clean the contacts with toothpicks, or a metal dental pick. Use a little household rubbing alcohol and cotton Q-tips to dissolve the gunk.
This alone may give you enough power to solve the problem.
3. Lube the vertical tracks, using spray silicone (don't use WD-40, oil, or grease). This will provide long-term lubrication yet won't smear when you wash the window like petroleum products will.

The above steps may reduce the resistance enough to solve the problem, and you can stop right here if things work well.
Otherwise, continue:
4. Now for the tough stuff, inside the door:
5. Remove the door panel (careful of the screw behind the reflector), and use a special 'trim removal tool' to pop the plastic fasteners loose. You'll *prolly* break a few, but replacements are available for a couple $$ in the HELP! section of Checker/AutoZone/etc.
On pre-'99's with mechanically-adjusted remote left mirror, be EXTREMELY careful of the mirror adjustment knob!! The little plastic grommet canNOT be removed, it just BREAKS!!! Every Pontiac dealer body shop has a box of these little f'ers under the counter, about $3 each (I buy 2 each time, 'cuz I'm clumsy).
You can prevent breakage: With the door open, kinda rotate/pivot the panel onto the outside of the roof/windshield so it's out of the way, with the cable still attached. Tape the panel in place.
6. Remove the plastic weather barrier; it must be reinstalled, so try not to tear it.
7. With the window up, look at the operating mechanism:
* Pre-‘99 were 'scissors' mechanism. Lots of things that slide and roll and rotate, and many prolly have rust.
* ‘99+ are a kind of ’rolling wire’ mechanism with fewer parts that move or rust. They also have the infamous 'plastic clips' that break easily (replacements also available from the 'HELP!' section).

Use Naval Jelly to dissolve the rust, then rinse and allow to dry. You may have to sand/steel wool/wirebrush some items.
This mechanism is never gonna look pretty; your goal is simply to lube the things that move.
Apply moly-based wheel bearing grease to the tracks, and every other moving thing you can.
Apply heavy oil (engine oil, like 10W30) to all the rollers and pivots that you couldn't grease (don't use light machine oil like 3-in-1).
Do NOT use WD-40 as a lube!! It is mostly solvent, and won't provide the long-term lubing that you need.
8. Look at the rear of the mechanism. On the pre-‘99’s, there is one screw or bolt where it attaches to the door structure. This has a small amount of adjustment (to allow the window to rise parallel with the track). This bolt loosens over time, so adjust the glass as needed and tighten the screw (maybe a bolt, I don't really remember). I dunno if the 99+’s have this bolt or not.
9. Reconnect the switches, and test everything before buttoning-up.
* Everything should work pretty well.
* If it doesn't, then it's time for a new motor, and/or regulator.
10. Reinstall the weather barrier plastic, using black goop and lots of duct tape to reduce wind leakage thru the door-handle slot.
11. Reinstall panel and handle panel.

OKAY.
You've now returned the entire window assembly to about 80% of the *new* condition.

Finally, I've read a couple posts recently where owners of '99+ GA's have had actual switch problems, requiring new switches either from the dealer or a s/y.

Hope this helps.
-Rick

PS: Once or twice a year, service the switches (driver and passenger sides) by unplugging/replugging the socket to reduce the effects of corrosion.