I think I'm too paranoid to even own a car.

[GMFWDFAN]

Okay, here's another issue from the never-ending cycle of what I like to call "autobilia paranoia". It's a medical condition I suffer from. ;)

My car got a coolant flush as soon as I got it last summer. That made it run cooler, which is a good thing.

Here lately, it's been like 50-ish degrees (up to 65 today), so I haven't been using my heat like I was (when it was cold out I'd have the heat on the "3" setting pretty much all the time - I'm cold-natured).

During most of the winter (and last summer/fall too), the car ran right at the 1/2 mark or sometimes one notch below the 1/2 mark.

Now it's running a hair over the 1/2 mark. I checked the coolant a few days ago and it was like 1/2 inch under the full cold line. But the car never gets over 1 mark over 1/2. I've also noticed these past few days that the car warms up quicker than it did back when it was bitterly cold. I guess that's normal though.

Is something wrong or am I just being stupid?

My heat still works great, btw.

[Silver 4 door]

sounds like its just because its getting warmer out. The coolant system might of had a air pocket in it and now its bled out. Top up the coolant and check on it from time to time.

[GMFWDFAN]

I'll top it off tomorrow morning. I got home at like 6:30 so I doubt the engine will be fully cold before I go to bed tonight. :)

[Silver 4 door]

oh you got your coolant flush a while ago. I miss read your post. I dought there was air in there for that long of a time. I'd still top it up and keep a eye on it and the temp it runs.

[GMFWDFAN]

Is it okay if the 50/50 coolant/water mix I have has been sitting in its container in the garage since last summer?

[Silver 4 door]

yes. It will be good still. Your not adding much anyways.

[GMFWDFAN]

Well I added some this morning. It took a bit more than I thought it would.

I brought it up to the full cold line, but apparently I put in a little too much because the overflow valve worked its magic by the time I got to the gas station up the road.

Maybe I'll bleed the air out again when I get home.

My oil doesn't look like chocolate milk either, thank God.

[Silver 4 door]

thats good news.

[GMFWDFAN]

Yeah. I checked the oil when I got to school today. The reading on the level was totally wrong, of course, because the motor was still at operating temp. But the oil definitely looked like oil.

Is bleeding the air out when I get home a good idea?

[Silver 4 door]

I dont think you'll have any air in the system. It wasent down very much. Do think you will have to worry about it.

[GMFWDFAN]

Well I checked the overflow valve when I got to the gym today, and I don't know if the dampness that was under it was from when it overflowed this morning or if it had done it again. It was coolant though. Not like a gaping puddle splashing around my engine bay like it was last summer, but there was a little trace of coolant there.

The car got right up to halfway and stayed there all morning and all afternoon today.

Isn't a tiny loss of coolant over time normal?

[rixGAphx]

There is no 'overflow valve' as such on the cooling system of this car, nor af any other car I can recall.

There is a pressure relief valve built-in to the pressure cap, and when the preset pressure (14-15 psi for all the GA's), then it will relieve the air in the top of the reservoir thru a small outlet.
On some GA's (my '96 for instance) the air just bubbles out the underside of the cap; if there's a little liquid involved, it dribbles down the side of the reservoir.
On later GA's (starting with '98 IIRC), there is a hose nipple on the side of the reservoir at this relief hole, and a hose that directs the overflowing air/coolant down to the bottom of the wheelwell (so it won't scald your hands or face).

BUT, you should only fill the reservoir to the 'Cold-Full' line!!!
More is NOT better!!
The system NEEDS the airspace so the liquid can expand without reaching the pressure cap.
The pressure cap should only be releasing moist air, not any liquid.

If liquid is being released, hopefull it as only a result of your original 'overfill' (which you shuld have immediately sucked-out with a turkey-baster, or by dipping a sponge repeatedly).

Keep an eye on the level.

And, have the pressure cap tested, or just replace the $12 puppy if it's old.
Then only tighten it as much as an average woman can easily do one-handed.
That's as tight as it needs to be; any tighter and you risk damaging or distorting the delicate rubber sealing washer.

A cap that is only holding 3 or 4 psi WILL allow the system to 'boil-over', in which case liquid is might gushout the overflow tube even at 200*F.

The top edge of the filler neck that mates with the rubber washer must be smooth and free of nicks and distortions.
* * *

There is a weep hole at the waterpump, that drips coolant that has seeped past the waterpump shaft seal.
This is only a drop or two per ten, twenty, mebbe fifty miles.
This is normal, but that adds up to only a cup a year or so.

If the system is losing more than that, then either:
* The WP shaft seal is failing and weeping too much; or,
* The pressure cap is not holding pressure and the humid pressurized air is taking a little liquid from the system everytime it heats up and 'relieves; or,
* There's another minor leak in the system.

All *might* be well with your system, but I think you causght it on the verge of giving you real headaches, and it's time for a little service to avoid disaster.

Hope this helps,
-Rick

[GMFWDFAN]

The pressure cap is new. I replaced it late last summer.

So should I start to examine the water pump now?

[Silver 4 door]

are you still loosing coolant? can you see any external leaks?

[GMFWDFAN]

I can't really see any leakage, but my engine hasn't been cleaned since it came out of the factory, so spotting leaks is hard. I drove the car in lots of stop and go traffic tonight and it never got over an indicated 200 (which is inaccurate, I know).

As far as I know I'm not losing coolant. I'll check it when the car cools down completely tomorrow morning.

[Silver 4 door]

sounds like you dont have any problem then. like I said just keep a eye on it. I check all my fluids once every few weeks. Just to make sure all is good.

[GMFWDFAN]

I certainly hope not. I hate car problems. :( Especially ones that require the car going away and not coming back for a long-arse time.

[GMFWDFAN]

I checked the coolant and the oil again today. All seems well. Coolant was not low. To me it seemed like it wasn't really at the full cold line, but apparently it was because when I added it to what I thought was the full cold line yesterday, it over-flowed a bit.

Oil still looks good. :) And the hottest the car got on the way to school was 1/2 mark over the indicated-200 mark. This was with the heat on the "floor/defrost" setting and the 3 fan setting.

There was one damp-ish spot with what looked like coolant in the depths of the engine bay. It wasn't on the engine itself, but on a flat surface of metal under the engine... I took a pic, but I'll have to wait until get home to post it. The hoses and the engine around it looked okay, but I'm car-illiterate so I don't know. It seemed un-related to anything, because the spot where it was was isolated from everything else. And the spot was about the size of two quarters.

Please excuse my retarded-ness when it comes to my car's engine.

[rixGAphx]

Please post that photo ASAP.

If it's where I think it is, atop the bellhousing, it's a prime indication of a LIM gasket leak at the left (driver) end of one of the heads. :(

-Rick

[GMFWDFAN]

Here's the pics:

http://usera.imagecave.com/GMFWDFAN/DSCN1891.JPG

http://usera.imagecave.com/GMFWDFAN/DSCN1893.JPG

http://usera.imagecave.com/GMFWDFAN/DSCN1894.JPG

The spot was on the passenger side of the bay. If this car needs a new LIM or headgasket or even a new motor eventually, I don't know if I'll be able to keep it. :( Damn.

[GMFWDFAN]

Okay, my grandparents refuse to let me take it to get it looked at. Until it literally explodes they think it's fine.

So my question now is, how do I prepare for what's coming? What do I do when the car over-heats? Pull over and wait to have it towed, or risk limping it home?

What does a price for a LIM job usually run?

[Vampyrate]

if your car over heats, just sit by the side of the road, prop up the hood and let it cool on its own, calling a tow truck is good and well get the 'rents to finally realize that you need to have it looked at, but under any circumstance, don't limp it home!

LIM job is kinda costly, i think somewhere between 400-600 for labor, which is stupid because its a $30 part, but you do have to take apart the engine to get to it

[GMFWDFAN]

I remember very faintly when our old family Corsica over-heated, but I was like four at the time. :lol: I just remember my mom cussing and turning the car off.

[Vampyrate]

okay, here are the steps:

1. Curse very loudly (even make up a few words if you feel so bold)
2. Turn off the car
3. Curse some more
4. Walk out of the car cursing and lift the hood.
5. Stare at engine cursing
6. Call tow truck
7. Curse more gingerly under your breath while waiting on tow truck

that should about cover it

[sax5warrior]

Dude, I know how you feel. Sometimes I am too scared to drive my own car.

Today, unfortunately, all the water got dumped out this morning while I was parked at school. It has been peaking above the 1/2 mark for about 2 days now and every time I see that needle move past it, I cringe and shake.

Right now, it is sitting at school for bit while I'm here at home, hopefully we can limp it back home to take a looksee.

I remember last summer it was dumping out water every 3 days or so and I had to fill it up again until it got me and almost overheated before I pulled out in the side of the road and cussed and cussed and cussed and just was ashamed of my car. My dad eventually replaced the thermostat I think and it has worked well but I think today it might be more than that.

UGH!

[rixGAphx]

The spot was on the passenger side of the bay. If this car needs a new LIM or headgasket or even a new motor eventually, I don't know if I'll be able to keep it.Naw, that's not the spot I feared.
Rest easy about that spot. Clean/dry it, and check back in a couple days.

Just keep checking the reservoir for a constant level; let us know if it drops, we'll help from there.

And quit worrying, there's nothing to go running to a shop about.

Your grandparents are wise.
* * *

The best way to prepare for car trouble, and the best dollars ever spent by a GA owner?
AAA membership. Roadside service, unlocking service, towing/jumping; 10% discount at NAPA.
AAA also has numerous brocures about how to be a responsible motorist; since you're asking the question, I fear your knowledge is still a little lacking.
* * *

A hot engine = One running hotter than 220*F.
Treat it delicately, find out why it's running so hot, and fix the problem to prevent overheating.

An overheating engine: One that is running 240+*F, or boiling-over.
Stop, pull over ASAP in a place that is safe for you and the car.
Raise the hood, and wait.
Stand in the shade, yourself.
Call for help.

Do NOT risk limping an 'overheating engine' unless your life literally is in danger.
Not even a block or two, except to get to a safe spot out of the driving lanes.
Same thing applies if the Low Oil Pressure idiot light comes 'on': No limping, pull over and stop.

Hope this helps,
-Rick

[Amplify]

isn't it better if you do use your heat, because it draws heat from your engine?
lol

[GMFWDFAN]

Naw, that's not the spot I feared.
Rest easy about that spot. Clean/dry it, and check back in a couple days.

Just keep checking the reservoir for a constant level; let us know if it drops, we'll help from there.

And quit worrying, there's nothing to go running to a shop about.

Your grandparents are wise.
* * *

The best way to prepare for car trouble, and the best dollars ever spent by a GA owner?
AAA membership. Roadside service, unlocking service, towing/jumping; 10% discount at NAPA.
AAA also has numerous brocures about how to be a responsible motorist; since you're asking the question, I fear your knowledge is still a little lacking.
* * *

A hot engine = One running hotter than 220*F.
Treat it delicately, find out why it's running so hot, and fix the problem to prevent overheating.

An overheating engine: One that is running 240+*F, or boiling-over.
Stop, pull over ASAP in a place that is safe for you and the car.
Raise the hood, and wait.
Stand in the shade, yourself.
Call for help.

Do NOT risk limping an 'overheating engine' unless your life literally is in danger.
Not even a block or two, except to get to a safe spot out of the driving lanes.
Same thing applies if the Low Oil Pressure idiot light comes 'on': No limping, pull over and stop.

Hope this helps,
-Rick
Thanks for the advice Rick. :) Sorry about earlier, I was over-reacting. Seeing that spot freaked me out. I guess I can reach down in there with a paper towel since the engine is cool by now?

Where should I look in to getting a triple-A membership? I've thought about that for a while now.

I <3 my car, even though it scares me sometimes. :lol:

[rixGAphx]

isn't it better if you do use your heat, because it draws heat from your engine?True, the 'heater core' is actually a mini-radiator, and if the engine is running a TAD too hot, say 225*F for a GA, then turning on the cabin heat WILL drop the engine temp to about 220*F.

On a day that is hot enough for the car to be running 225*F, the outside air temp is gonna be 100+*F.
You're gonna roast inside the cabin, even with windows all open (the AC will of course be 'off' during all this, which is actually the first step when the needle starts creeping too high).

Bottom Line:
Keep your cooling system in tip-top condition, especially as those parts wear-out.
If using the cabin heat makes a difference to the engine operating temp, something is wrong with your cooling system and it needs immediate attention.
240*F is the absolute DANGER point (212 boiling point of water at sea level, 216 boiling point of water+antifreeze, 245 boiling point of coolant at 14 psi pressure), and running cabin heat isn't going to save your butt or your engine.
* * *

www.AAA.com to find the walk-in office nearest you.
Very helpful people, you're kinda joining a club of decent upstanding middle-class folks.
If you travel much on business or whatever where you stay in hotels occasionally, you'll actually pay for the annual cost of membership in discounts.

IIRC, membership is about $60 for basic and $80 for 'platinum' ('free tow' for farther distance, a few other bennies I've always found valuable); additional members of the same family at the same address are cheap to add-on.
And the coverage is for YOU, regardless of what car you're driving OR a passenger in, even a rental; so if your buddy's POS breaks-down halfway past nowhere with you in it, you can have his sorry ass towed to a repair shop just as though it was you driving your car.

Good luck,
-Rick

[GMFWDFAN]

^^Sweet. :) I got to that spot a few minutes ago. I had to tape a napkin to the end of a broom handle and go at it. I scrubbed it away a little, but there's still dampness there. It's definitely not coolant though. It almost seems like mud/water splashed up there from the road and soaked into the gunk that's built up around the engine since 1999.