another dumb question

[wiseojelly]

I took the car in today to see what was wrong with it. It kept making a humming noise it was really loud. Come to find out the front right hub is bad. To fix everything on that side they want about 700. I can't come up with this for another couple of weeks. Do you think the car would be okay? Or is it something that needs to be done right away? Never had a hub problem so I am clueless as usual.

Thanks

[Sweet98GA]

i've heard of people driving on broken hubs, but I wouldn't recommend it... 700 seems like a lot for hub change though, you should shop around

[wiseojelly]

It's a tierod that "isn't that bad" whatever that means... and a bushing. The paper is in the glove box. So all of that is about 650 and they said they could work with me on 550...

[spclkmb77]

A tie-rod wouldn't really cause the humming sound.. as that is definitely probably the wheel hub/bearing assembly... This is actually relatively easy to fix if you, or someone you know has a basic knowledge of removing a tire and brakes, etc... It also is something that you definitely want to get fixed as soon as possible.

If you think it might be something you want to do yourself, (part is about $100 to $170 - depending on if you go basic aftermarket, or TIMKEN...) let me know and I can give you pretty decent instructions.. I've done this many times myself on these cars and it's relatively easy.

also.. could you tell us exactly what parts they listed on the quote? it would be helpful to figure out their diagnosis

[wiseojelly]

I'm gonna have to do it myself. So if you could give me instructions that would be great! I'm also going to get the manual thing that Autozone has, but I'd like to have both if you have the time?

This is what the estimate says I'll do it word for word:

Suspension inspection
Wheel Hub right front
-Replace Hub and bearing 199.99

Tie Rod End Right Side
-Replace outer tie rod 141.00

Control Arm Bushing Right Front
-Replace Lower bushings 138.00

Then the wheel aligments, service and supplies and whatever else they found to charge me with.

Labor is 237.60
Parts 409.28

[spclkmb77]

Wheel Hub/Bearing Assembly Replacement (Front)

OK... here's how i do them... but just a few notes before we begin..

If it was me, first I'd change the wheel hub/bearing assembly like we're going to discuss here.. Drive the car and make sure your noise is gone.. Second.. take the car to another shop for a quick estimate on the bushings and tie rod end and get a second opinion as to if they really need replaced or not. In my experience, a shop will usually only tell you that tie rods need replaced if they can't get the alignment to come in, or if there is major apparent damage.. (someone correct me if i'm off base here)

I've seen many GA's with high miles that are still really tight in the front end.. Usually the bushings are good, unless they are notably cracked, until about 150,000 - 160,000. Also, the weight distribution of the car is such that properly maintained suspension usually yields tie rod end life into the same mileage range or better - with that being said, you possibly could need replacement on these parts, but it's better to start with what is making the noise, and get a second opinion on the other's as they are a little more time consuming and require an alignment (tie rod). Simply changing the wheel bearing usually does not require it.

So now that i've rambled, here's how to change the wheel hub/bearing assembly. (Readers, let me know if I forget something.. it's been about 6 months since the last one.. :D)

____________

REMOVAL:
First, set the parking brake, & get ready to lift and properly support the problem wheel of the vehicle on solid jack stands. BUT BEFORE DOING SO, read on...
IMPORTANT: Before you get the problem wheel totally off the ground (and before removing the wheel), you need to remove the axle nut. IF you have aluminum wheels, (some chrome ones also), you need to remove the wheel center cap so you can see the axle nut. It's either a 34MM or 36MM nut on the end of the axle shaft. Get the appropriate socket ready, then lift the car until almost all the pressure is off the wheel, but not off the ground. You basically want the majority of the weight off, leaving only enough that you can't spin the tire without supreme effort. ;) You can now slip the socket through the center of the wheel and hub/bearing assembly onto the axle nut and break it loose. (Use of an impact wrench here really helps! If you don't have one, eat a couple bowls of Wheaties before hand.) Once the nut is loose and turnable without the impact, continue to lift the car and get it onto jack stands securely. (NOTE: if you cannot fit the socket through the center of the wheel, grab your spare tire out of the trunk and swap it out first.. the socket will definitely fit through the spare.) This ensures that no damage is done due to cranking on the axle nut with no axial support.
Next, remove the wheel and place aside (btw, it makes a great seat while doing the rest of the change out.. LOL)
Now, remove the brake caliper and rotor, then the caliper bracket. Hang the caliper from the spring, or somewhere close with a coat hanger or rope.. Do not let it hang by the brake line as damage can occur.
Next, you need to unhook the ABS sensor connector.. you can either remove it from the wheel hub itself, or you can unhook the lead. All new wheel hubs that I've seen come with new ABS sensors, you should not re-use the one on on the car as it may not be totally compatible with the new hub assembly.
Next, remove the wheel hub/bearing assembly bolts (3 of them).
Next, remove the wheel hub/bearing assembly from the steering knuckle. Be careful while doing this not to pull the drive shaft too far out of position.. This will take a little patience the first time you do it.. You will see the drive shaft spline inside the hub/bearing assembly.. these just slide apart, though sometimes they can be difficult. Sometimes it is necessary to put the axle nut back on the end of the axle, then use the socket over the nut to gently tap the axle to get it moving out of the hub assembly.
Once this is done.. pull the hub/bearing assembly completely off, remove the brake dust shield, and clean the bolts, the axle spline, and whatever else is crusty..
Relax, look at what you've accomplished, and then get ready to install your new bearing hub assembly!INSTALLATION:
OK.. once everything is cleaned up and ready to go.. get your new hub/bearing assembly started onto the drive axle spline. Make sure everything is straight and that the axle starts in nicely (NOTE: don't forget the brake shield that you removed.. if you do, you need to remove the hub again to put it in place.. LOL.. i've done this and it sucks! - It goes in between the hub/bearing assembly and the knuckle)
Have someone help if needed, and install the hub/bearing assembly by slowly working the axle into the the center. You can use the axle nut to help pull the axle through, just be careful. Once it's in place and you can line it up with the bolt holes, put the hub/bearing assembly bolts back in and tighten them to 70 ft. lbs. Basically everything else is the reverse of removal.
Next, install caliper bracket, the rotor, and finally the caliper. Make sure you don't get crap all over your brake pads and rotor during handling.. if you do, just use some brake cleaner to clean them up.
Next, make sure you have the new ABS sensor and lead in place and secured.. follow the same routing that you removed the old one from. Be careful with some of the clips as they can bend easliy.
Once everything is back together, put the wheel that you used to loosen the axle nut back on, and then lower the vehicle just until the wheel touches the ground to give you the hold you need to tighten the axle nut without turning the wheel. Place the socket back on the axle nut and tighten. NOTE: if you have the old style nut (keeper pack with multiple nuts inside) torque it to 284 ft.lbs. - If you have the newer style solid nut, torque it to 173 ft.lbs.
Put your wheel/tire back on and torque lug nuts to 100 ft.lbs. using a star pattern through all 5 lug nuts.
Lower the vehicle, test drive and make sure alignment is still correct and the noise is gone. Ta-Da! you've just replaced your first hub/bearing assembly!Hopefully this information helps.. like i said above, the last one i did was about 6 months ago.. so if anyone notices anything that i've omitted, please let me know.. As far as I know.. everything is listed in the correct order.

The first time you do this, give yourself a couple of hours so you don't get rushed and forget something. I've done so many I can swap one in about 30-45 mins.. so really it's not that bad.. just a few tight bolts here and there...

Good Luck!

Let us know how it goes!

[rixGAphx]

'00, 8-yeras old; how many miles?

I would get a second opinion on the control arm bushings and the tie-rod end, especially since "it really isn't that bad."
This is often code for "nine-out-of-ten other mechanics would think I'm raping the customer."

The hub and bearing are making the noise.
Cheap, and easy to fix by a shop or DIY.
And actually the $199.99 isn't a bad price, if they let you out the door for that much.

The alignment is necessary if they do the tierod end and/or the control arm bushings.
But NOT necessary if the bearings are merely replaced.

Good luck,
-Rick

[wiseojelly]

it's got about 115k on it. Total the repair on the hub will cost about 336. I got a little lost on the charges because he had arrows going everywhere to match them up. I've cut back on a lot of time from work because of doctor's appointments so money is tight. Most I can do is buy the part and have the bf do it. Otherwise I have to wait a couple of weeks. They told me if it's not fixed right away the tire could fall off?????

[2K SE]

The tire will not fall off. The noise may make you crazy but you have some time to fix it. Not a year but a few weeks to save up will be OK.