spclkmb77
04-01-2008, 08:33 AM
Wheel Hub/Bearing Assembly Replacement (Front)
REMOVAL:
First, set the parking brake, & get ready to lift and properly support the problem wheel of the vehicle on solid jack stands. BUT BEFORE DOING SO, read on...
IMPORTANT: Before you get the problem wheel totally off the ground (and before removing the wheel), you need to remove the axle nut. IF you have aluminum wheels, (some chrome ones also), you need to remove the wheel center cap so you can see the axle nut. It's either a 34MM or 36MM nut on the end of the axle shaft. Get the appropriate socket ready, then lift the car until almost all the pressure is off the wheel, but not off the ground. You basically want the majority of the weight off, leaving only enough that you can't spin the tire without supreme effort. ;) You can now slip the socket through the center of the wheel and hub/bearing assembly onto the axle nut and break it loose. (Use of an impact wrench here really helps! If you don't have one, eat a couple bowls of Wheaties before hand.) Once the nut is loose and turnable without the impact, continue to lift the car and get it onto jack stands securely. (NOTE: if you cannot fit the socket through the center of the wheel, grab your spare tire out of the trunk and swap it out first.. the socket will definitely fit through the spare.) This ensures that no damage is done due to cranking on the axle nut with no axial support.
Next, remove the wheel and place aside (btw, it makes a great seat while doing the rest of the change out.. LOL)
Now, remove the brake caliper and rotor, then the caliper bracket. Hang the caliper from the spring, or somewhere close with a coat hanger or rope.. Do not let it hang by the brake line as damage can occur.
Next, you need to unhook the ABS sensor connector.. you can either remove it from the wheel hub itself, or you can unhook the lead. All new wheel hubs that I've seen come with new ABS sensors, you should not re-use the one on on the car as it may not be totally compatible with the new hub assembly.
Next, remove the wheel hub/bearing assembly bolts (3 of them).
Next, remove the wheel hub/bearing assembly from the steering knuckle. Be careful while doing this not to pull the drive shaft too far out of position.. This will take a little patience the first time you do it.. You will see the drive shaft spline inside the hub/bearing assembly.. these just slide apart, though sometimes they can be difficult. Sometimes it is necessary to put the axle nut back on the end of the axle, then use the socket over the nut to gently tap the axle to get it moving out of the hub assembly.
Once this is done.. pull the hub/bearing assembly completely off, remove the brake dust shield, and clean the bolts, the axle spline, and whatever else is crusty..
Relax, look at what you've accomplished, and then get ready to install your new bearing hub assembly!INSTALLATION:
OK.. once everything is cleaned up and ready to go.. get your new hub/bearing assembly started onto the drive axle spline. Make sure everything is straight and that the axle starts in nicely (NOTE: don't forget the brake shield that you removed.. if you do, you need to remove the hub again to put it in place.. LOL.. i've done this and it sucks! - It goes in between the hub/bearing assembly and the knuckle)
Have someone help if needed, and install the hub/bearing assembly by slowly working the axle into the the center. You can use the axle nut to help pull the axle through, just be careful. Once it's in place and you can line it up with the bolt holes, put the hub/bearing assembly bolts back in and tighten them to 70 ft. lbs. Basically everything else is the reverse of removal.
Next, install caliper bracket, the rotor, and finally the caliper. Make sure you don't get crap all over your brake pads and rotor during handling.. if you do, just use some brake cleaner to clean them up.
Next, make sure you have the new ABS sensor and lead in place and secured.. follow the same routing that you removed the old one from. Be careful with some of the clips as they can bend easliy.
Once everything is back together, put the wheel that you used to loosen the axle nut back on, and then lower the vehicle just until the wheel touches the ground to give you the hold you need to tighten the axle nut without turning the wheel. Place the socket back on the axle nut and tighten. NOTE: if you have the old style nut (keeper pack with multiple nuts inside) torque it to 284 ft.lbs. - If you have the newer style solid nut, torque it to 173 ft.lbs.
Put your wheel/tire back on and torque lug nuts to 100 ft.lbs. using a star pattern through all 5 lug nuts.
Lower the vehicle, test drive and make sure alignment is still correct and the noise is gone. If everything checks out.. the process is complete.
The first time you do this, give yourself a couple of hours so you don't get rushed and forget something. After doing one, you can probably repeat the process in less than an hour.
REMOVAL:
First, set the parking brake, & get ready to lift and properly support the problem wheel of the vehicle on solid jack stands. BUT BEFORE DOING SO, read on...
IMPORTANT: Before you get the problem wheel totally off the ground (and before removing the wheel), you need to remove the axle nut. IF you have aluminum wheels, (some chrome ones also), you need to remove the wheel center cap so you can see the axle nut. It's either a 34MM or 36MM nut on the end of the axle shaft. Get the appropriate socket ready, then lift the car until almost all the pressure is off the wheel, but not off the ground. You basically want the majority of the weight off, leaving only enough that you can't spin the tire without supreme effort. ;) You can now slip the socket through the center of the wheel and hub/bearing assembly onto the axle nut and break it loose. (Use of an impact wrench here really helps! If you don't have one, eat a couple bowls of Wheaties before hand.) Once the nut is loose and turnable without the impact, continue to lift the car and get it onto jack stands securely. (NOTE: if you cannot fit the socket through the center of the wheel, grab your spare tire out of the trunk and swap it out first.. the socket will definitely fit through the spare.) This ensures that no damage is done due to cranking on the axle nut with no axial support.
Next, remove the wheel and place aside (btw, it makes a great seat while doing the rest of the change out.. LOL)
Now, remove the brake caliper and rotor, then the caliper bracket. Hang the caliper from the spring, or somewhere close with a coat hanger or rope.. Do not let it hang by the brake line as damage can occur.
Next, you need to unhook the ABS sensor connector.. you can either remove it from the wheel hub itself, or you can unhook the lead. All new wheel hubs that I've seen come with new ABS sensors, you should not re-use the one on on the car as it may not be totally compatible with the new hub assembly.
Next, remove the wheel hub/bearing assembly bolts (3 of them).
Next, remove the wheel hub/bearing assembly from the steering knuckle. Be careful while doing this not to pull the drive shaft too far out of position.. This will take a little patience the first time you do it.. You will see the drive shaft spline inside the hub/bearing assembly.. these just slide apart, though sometimes they can be difficult. Sometimes it is necessary to put the axle nut back on the end of the axle, then use the socket over the nut to gently tap the axle to get it moving out of the hub assembly.
Once this is done.. pull the hub/bearing assembly completely off, remove the brake dust shield, and clean the bolts, the axle spline, and whatever else is crusty..
Relax, look at what you've accomplished, and then get ready to install your new bearing hub assembly!INSTALLATION:
OK.. once everything is cleaned up and ready to go.. get your new hub/bearing assembly started onto the drive axle spline. Make sure everything is straight and that the axle starts in nicely (NOTE: don't forget the brake shield that you removed.. if you do, you need to remove the hub again to put it in place.. LOL.. i've done this and it sucks! - It goes in between the hub/bearing assembly and the knuckle)
Have someone help if needed, and install the hub/bearing assembly by slowly working the axle into the the center. You can use the axle nut to help pull the axle through, just be careful. Once it's in place and you can line it up with the bolt holes, put the hub/bearing assembly bolts back in and tighten them to 70 ft. lbs. Basically everything else is the reverse of removal.
Next, install caliper bracket, the rotor, and finally the caliper. Make sure you don't get crap all over your brake pads and rotor during handling.. if you do, just use some brake cleaner to clean them up.
Next, make sure you have the new ABS sensor and lead in place and secured.. follow the same routing that you removed the old one from. Be careful with some of the clips as they can bend easliy.
Once everything is back together, put the wheel that you used to loosen the axle nut back on, and then lower the vehicle just until the wheel touches the ground to give you the hold you need to tighten the axle nut without turning the wheel. Place the socket back on the axle nut and tighten. NOTE: if you have the old style nut (keeper pack with multiple nuts inside) torque it to 284 ft.lbs. - If you have the newer style solid nut, torque it to 173 ft.lbs.
Put your wheel/tire back on and torque lug nuts to 100 ft.lbs. using a star pattern through all 5 lug nuts.
Lower the vehicle, test drive and make sure alignment is still correct and the noise is gone. If everything checks out.. the process is complete.
The first time you do this, give yourself a couple of hours so you don't get rushed and forget something. After doing one, you can probably repeat the process in less than an hour.